Project round two: 1992 Chevy Camaro

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Wish I lived closer to help, I love a good challenge!

[Darren]

pretty diagrams are good and all, but I have no idea what they mean. So what do I do is the question. Problem solve here, do we think its VATS? Should I be looking elsewhere or what

[hoogiesngrinderz]

It's hard to say, your lack of electrical know how is the fence that is keeping us from the solution.

If the clutch switch is bad, it won't crank but the pump should prime.
If the starter enable relay is bad, it won't crank but the pump should prime.
If the VATS isn't getting +12V, no crank or injector pulses.
If the ECM isn't getting +12V, it should crank but no injector pulses.

[Darren]

I know enough about electrical to find the problem and fix it if I know where to look, I have no clue if what I am dealing with is VATS or not, that is the issue.

What is the OHM meter suppose to be set too? I have seen 20K but then 2000K etc? I thought I was getting a reading of 7.5 at my Key does this make sense?? I might have the wrong resistor but I am not sure how to tell!

I could really use a answer to this question. Reason being I have read other threads talking about different numbers and reading, etc. Is my reading of 7.5 ohms at my key sound correct or should it be 750 ohms, or 7500 ohms? That all makes a big difference in the resistor. Also since I am getting a reading down under the column where else do I look for a VATS issue?

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Those are just scale settings. 20k setting with a reading of 7.5 means 7.5k ohms, or 7500.

The clutch switch is on the pedal assembly, it gets pressed down when the clutch is put all the way to floor

[Darren]

Those are just scale settings. 20k setting with a reading of 7.5 means 7.5k ohms, or 7500.

The clutch switch is on the pedal assembly, it gets pressed down when the clutch is put all the way to floor

Then I dont believe its a VATS issue underneath the steering column, because I have 7.5 ohms at the connector under there with Key on. I will check clutch switch tonight but that doesnt explain the other symptoms the car is having.

[meissen]

It's hard to say, your lack of electrical know how is the fence that is keeping us from the solution.

If the clutch switch is bad, it won't crank but the pump should prime.
If the starter enable relay is bad, it won't crank but the pump should prime.
If the VATS isn't getting +12V, no crank or injector pulses.
If the ECM isn't getting +12V, it should crank but no injector pulses.

So it sounds like there's multiple issues going on then. Maybe a bad ground? Bad connection somewhere? Since your main symptoms are 1) no crank and 2) no pump prime.


I know it sounds basic but have you checked the battery voltage to make sure the battery has enough juice?

[Darren]

So it sounds like there's multiple issues going on then. Maybe a bad ground? Bad connection somewhere? Since your main symptoms are 1) no crank and 2) no pump prime.


I know it sounds basic but have you checked the battery voltage to make sure the battery has enough juice?

Yep sure have, actually have had 2 different batteries in the car, had it hooked up to another car to jump, a jump box and a battery charger last night with a "engine start" setting. Same thing happens every time, nothing.

I think I am just going to get VATS out of my mind tonight and check everything else, if that comes back to a dead end then it has to be VATS. There is a power junction block by the radiator right next to the battery tray, has gotten wet in the past when filling the radiator up, but never caused a issue before. Also this did not get wet when the car started to act up, so

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Looking into more of the diagrams, there is a 20amp inline fuse that powers the oil pressure switch, pump relay, and ecm....but I don't think it would cause a no crank

[meissen]

I have two fusible links that I have a kill switch on because I have such a high parasitic draw on those two lines and I can't figure out where from. I'm not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure the PCM is part of one of those two links. When I kill the power to those two links, I can turn my headlights on and I think I have door chime. I know the ignition switch and BCM are also in the fusible link that I have the kill switch on, so that might be why, but with the switch turned off I get no crank or prime.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

There are two fusable links that come off the + post on the starter I think, one powers the ignition cylinder and the other runs to the positive output post of the alternator.

If the ignition cylinder is dead, the whole system is dead

[meissen]

So sounds like Darren's two troubleshooting steps are:

1) checking the fuse for the oil pressure switch, pump relay, and ECM
2) check ignition switch/cylinder

[TylerT/AZ28]

starter relay or fuel pump relay or something. start tracing wires and replacing fuses and stuff

[TylerT/AZ28]

I can bring over engine bump switch tonight to confirm the starter works...

i think i have one of those too

try to turn the engine over by hand via the crank bolt on your underdrive then see if it turns over

[SEIKI]

Darren, there is a fuse for the fuel pump behind the battery by the headlights,(i think it mounts to the rad. support) it's hard to see it but if that fuse is blown you won't get any fuel pump prime or anything else related to the fuel pump. This shouldn't prevent the car from cranking but I would check that fuse to to be sure.