I bought my old 93 Z28 back, now it needs some TLC

[bri2203]

My local Chevy dealer had me a waterpump coupler in 2 days

Send Joel a PM, he should have one.

[bri2203]

My 93 when the transmission was rebuilt a higher stall was installed, a manual valve body, corvette servo, and some other upgrades.

As a weekend car it would be a great set up but after a few weeks the hard shifts got annoying especially when the car wasn't that quick. But the manual valve body is a must! IMO

As for the tubular K-member..."whats another glass of water when your already drowning?" "Its only alot of money when you add it up"

[nascarnate326]

id spend the 400 elsewhere imo

[MP81]

3) is there anything I can recoat headers that actually works and won't burn off within 10mins of run time?

Well, don't use POR-20. It's burned off with about 10-15 minutes of run time, twice, on my header.

Personally, I'd say just go get it ceramic coated. A lot of my friends have had really good luck with VHT Flameproof.

[mcalus]

I have 10.5" wheels on the back with a 53mm offset and I didn't have to do anything to get them to fit. If they are a 56mm offset you might need a bfh.

I'll look to see what offset they are, then take a pic where it's hitting

My local Chevy dealer had me a waterpump coupler in 2 days

Haven't even tried yet...

My 93 when the transmission was rebuilt a higher stall was installed, a manual valve body, corvette servo, and some other upgrades.

As a weekend car it would be a great set up but after a few weeks the hard shifts got annoying especially when the car wasn't that quick. But the manual valve body is a must! IMO

As for the tubular K-member..."whats another glass of water when your already drowning?" "Its only alot of money when you add it up"

The quote I got was $475 from monster transmissions, the kit was good up to 500 hp, next highest was 800hp for $775. Labor would be $200 from a trans tech I work with. I guess I'll see where my money is at once I get the motor back together

Well, don't use POR-20. It's burned off with about 10-15 minutes of run time, twice, on my header.

Personally, I'd say just go get it ceramic coated. A lot of my friends have had really good luck with VHT Flameproof.

Reason I ask, I have been seeing alot of used painted ones on ls1tech.

[mcalus]

Need some advice. I have talked to 2 separate people that have gotten there motor built at this shop that my motor is at. Both are satisified customers of there work. I told them how my buddy (owner of shop) is continuing pushing my motors finish date a "few weeks" everytime I talk to him. Supposedly they had the same issue. They had to call day after day to get their motors done. I think I just need to give him a date and tell him I need it done by then.

This wouldn't be such an issue if I didn't know him. It would also be easier if I was a closer friend. It's a sticky sitiuation. I don't want to burn my bridges with him, he does great work but I need my motor back.

What would you do?

[MP81]

Need some advice. I have talked to 2 separate people that have gotten there motor built at this shop that my motor is at. Both are satisified customers of there work. I told them how my buddy (owner of shop) is continuing pushing my motors finish date a "few weeks" everytime I talk to him. Supposedly they had the same issue. They had to call day after day to get their motors done. I think I just need to give him a date and tell him I need it done by then.

This wouldn't be such an issue if I didn't know him. It would also be easier if I was a closer friend. It's a sticky sitiuation. I don't want to burn my bridges with him, he does great work but I need my motor back.

What would you do?

I'd keep on him. Check in, ask if he needs anything, parts, help, etc.

[c0ncEpT]

Just be real with him. Tell him you appreciate what hes doing for you but you need the motor by x date period.

Thats pretty much how I got my trans back from Mike Ridings.

[CMYZGO]

Need some advice. I have talked to 2 separate people that have gotten there motor built at this shop that my motor is at. Both are satisified customers of there work. I told them how my buddy (owner of shop) is continuing pushing my motors finish date a "few weeks" everytime I talk to him. Supposedly they had the same issue. They had to call day after day to get their motors done. I think I just need to give him a date and tell him I need it done by then.

This wouldn't be such an issue if I didn't know him. It would also be easier if I was a closer friend. It's a sticky sitiuation. I don't want to burn my bridges with him, he does great work but I need my motor back.

What would you do?

If you are paying like every other customer and he isn't doing this on his own time then I would stay on him. If he is cutting you a major deal then maybe let him take his time, but if you are not getting any special treatment then I wouldn't give him any special treatment either.

[Gregs_gsxr]

I'd keep on him. Check in, ask if he needs anything, parts, help, etc.

ditto, dont let him think you forgot, stop by the shop call him a couple times a week and yes give him a date on when you need your engine by, friend or not it shouldnt take forever specially if he does it for a living.

[mcalus]

A list of things i came up with that ill need. Pretty sure I am forgetting quite a few things.

Head bolts (Brand?)
Head gaskets (thinner for compression?(impala gaskets?)
Water pump (going with a stocker, may upgrade to ewp in future)
Water pump gaskets
Water pump coupler
Timing chain and sprockets (stock?)
Timing cover seals and gasket
Plugs and wires (what plugs?)
New opti? (replaced around 80k, car has 130k on it) probably replace it and use current one as backup.
Intake gaskets
Header gaskets
Block off plates (should have a few laying around)
Lifters (LS7)
Pushrods (length TBD)
160 stat
Tune
Oil pan gasket
Oil pan? (stock one looks like poop and is pretty gummed up. I thought of powdercoating mine but I really don't want to clean out the sand from the inside afterwards)
Oil pump with white spring
Fuel Filter
Oil pressure sending unit (i believe thats what i broke, pics in beginning of thread)
Poly motor mounts
Longtubes
True duals... Still undecided on exhaust. Not really a priority at this point.
Intake elbow, my stocker is all ripped up.
Adj LCA's and PHB.
Relocation brackets
Aluminum driveshaft (again not a priority)
Stall (3600?)
Bigger injectors

Uneducated on valvetrain
Springs
1.6 rr's

Again, I'm sure I am forgetting something. I know there are eldebrock shocks in the rear already. I would like to lower this, maybe chop springs in front give it a raked look? Not sure.. I have tons of money to spend before I worry about looks at this point...

I'm looking around $2500-3000 all said and done. Think that is doable? Paint really wont cost me anything, might have to throw the boss something. Still unsure if I am going to do the body work or have a guy at work do it for a couple hundred. I am going to get it running before I do body work/ paint.

Interior wise I really only need a headliner and a dash.

On another note, I bought these wheels from a member, the lip was all destroyed. I got it fixed at weldcraft. Now I am debating on what I should do to the wheel. I needs to be powdercoated all though it would be very very difficult to sandblast this powder off. Also I would have to tape up the machined lip. Which is possible if I paint it, which is what I am thinking of doing. Although I would either have to strip off the powdercoat (pita) or sand it and have a noticeable lip where the powder to metal is (if that makes sense) or I cold put some glaze on there, sand down rim, should look pretty good. Although I don't know how much the glaze will throw off the balance. I don't want a stack of weights on one side to make it balanced.



Don't know if I posted this or not but this was the hood that I bought off a member. It was kinked in the middle so the whole hood was f#$ked. I have a hood set up for me to pick up, i just need to take the time to go out that way (2hours north of me at bay city area)


Pic of the rod bolts-


Cam-

[JoeliusZ28]

wow youve quite a project here!

Ive got the coupler as i just said in PM. Another alternative to the coupler problem if they are that hard to find is to just go electric water pump I thought mine might be a bit of a problem at the road course since it doesnt change the flow rate based on RPM, but it stayed a steady 180 degrees during a 20 minute track session of continuous WOT. There seem to be no downfalls AS LONG as you wire it in good. I almost overheated my car this week for said reasons

[ryanwarby01]

At this point I would look into the LTCC coil conversion to ditch the opti. For the money you would spend on a good opti your half way to the conversion kit, plus much better tuning abilities

[mcalus]

At this point I would look into the LTCC coil conversion to ditch the opti. For the money you would spend on a good opti your half way to the conversion kit, plus much better tuning ablities.

It did cross my mind but it's a little more than I want to put into it. Its about $1200 for the kit and a good opti is ~$400. although I can get a Chandler for $125ish (I believe) I'm still trying to make this a budget build. I can always upgrade and buy morE down the road.

[ryanwarby01]

It did cross my mind but it's a little more than I want to put into it. Its about $1200 for the kit and a good opti is ~$400. although I can get a Chandler for $125ish (I believe) I'm still trying to make this a budget build. I can always upgrade and buy morE down the road.

Budget and LT1 don't go great together, but I get what you are saying. I started with a Delco opti then went with a Dynaspark when I should have just went with the LTCC to begin with and spent about the same amount of money. Also, I kept a Chandler for a spare and had to use it a couple of times and it worked great.