Project: PBR-Built Z/28

[MP81]

That's a great way to do that.

[Atrus]

Noid tester or an infred laser thermometer. I have both and the thermometer was the best spent money. Start the car and watch the temps on each primary. Which ever one is cold...winner winner chicken dinner. Takes about 2 min with the correct tool.

That's a great way to do that.

Agree, that's a great idea! Didn't even think of that. That'll at least tell you which cylinder it is...from there you have to determine whether it is fuel or ignition related.

[JoeliusZ28]

Thanks for all the help guys, great discussion here. Nate where can i get one of those? Sounds like a useful tool to have regardless of the immediate need.

[MP81]

Thanks for all the help guys, great discussion here. Nate where can i get one of those? Sounds like a useful tool to have regardless of the immediate need.

Actually...

http://deals.kinja.com/todays-best-d...u-s-1711943887

You guys buy boatloads of IR thermometers whenever we post a deal, and it’s easy to see why. They’re a ton of fun to mess around with, and can come in handy for everything from cooking to home energy savings.

If you still don’t own one, you can rectify that for just $12 today! Nubee Non-contact Infrared Thermometer, $12 with code "N5008 OFF" (minus the space, it does the face)

If you don't have Amazon Prime, I have one as well that you could borrow if you needed it very soon.

[Atrus]

If you aren't looking for a super quality one, HF has them as well:

http://www.harborfreight.com/infrare...ter-93984.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...ing-69465.html

[JoeliusZ28]

Looks like im making a trip to harbor fake after work today

[thisisthewayilive]

I got mine from HF a couple years ago.... Never had any issues and can't beat the price!

[nascarnate326]

I got mine from Advanced Auto. If they have one in stock and you order it online go to retailmenot.com and get a coupon code. It was cheaper than amazon/HF and it was closer to me.

I just went through the same BS last year so I have it down pat. The other thing you could do is take the intake off and see which port is oily/fuel/wet looking. I don't remember how easily the LT1 intake comes off but the LS intake can be off in 10 min.

Another thing to remember, just because the noid tester tests good (flashes) doesn't mean that the injector pin is actually making contact with the harness plug. In my case the noid tester connector was a fat/tall piece and the FORD injectors in my car are short and skinny.


I still see the perfect opportunity for 24x

[nascarnate326]

the other thing you can do which is kind of ghetto is take a small dab of oil and put a tiny bit on each primary. Run the car for a few min. Whichever one has the oil left is the problem child.

[JoeliusZ28]

Just used a spray bottle to spray water on the headers. Cylinder number 5 is the cuplrit and i think i found the problem. The plastic crown on the opti for the wire cap is broke on that cylinder and not watertight. (Accident when installing a brand new opti i didnt feel like taking it back apart). The connection was all corroded from the fire extinguisher crap.

Glad i didnt run the car long im probably going to have to replace that spark plug.

[JoeliusZ28]

Cleaned the connection and tried it out. Its hitting on all 8 part time now. That plug is probably wasted. Im one step closer!

[MP81]

Baby steps!

[94_LT1_Z28]

Just used a spray bottle to spray water on the headers. Cylinder number 5 is the cuplrit and i think i found the problem. The plastic crown on the opti for the wire cap is broke on that cylinder and not watertight. (Accident when installing a brand new opti i didnt feel like taking it back apart). The connection was all corroded from the fire extinguisher crap.

Glad i didnt run the car long im probably going to have to replace that spark plug.

Soooo....It was an opti problem?

[JoeliusZ28]

Not the typical one but yes

I'm actually amazed the opti got drenched by that crap and is still working.

[HenryZ28]

#24xconversion time