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Project: PBR-Built Z/28

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  • if you need a hand gimme a holler, but yea bucket of some sort and pull the rail sounds like your best bet
    91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
    85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
    00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
    97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

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    • oil pan would work too, being that I assume the rail will be up in the engine bay...it'd be a little less cumbersome I would think.
      2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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      • Project: PBR-Built Z/28

        Why not just do a cylinder power balance test? Pull each injector connector while it's running and see which one results in no change of RPM. Or use a noid light.
        2015 Silverado

        Originally posted by JoeliusZ28
        If you need 6 and half grand to break your tires loose you shouldnt be attempting a holeshot.

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        • Joel - you are looking for a noid light.

          Please don't pull them and let them spray.

          Take it from me burns suck.
          2000 Formula
          fixed slow junk

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          • Originally posted by Boost Addict View Post
            Why not just do a cylinder power balance test? Pull each injector connector while it's running and see which one results in no change of RPM. Or use a noid light.
            Because with the cam i cant tell at idle. It sounds fine. I only notice it when i put a load on the engine. The pcm has the same target idle rpm regardless of being a cylinder down it will use the iac to compensate.

            Edit: i am also afraid of spark being the issue resulting in fuel building up and starting a fire in the exhaust
            Last edited by JoeliusZ28; June 17th, 2015, 08:15 AM.
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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            • Originally posted by Nocooler View Post
              Joel - you are looking for a noid light.

              Please don't pull them and let them spray.

              Take it from me burns suck.
              Test will be done on a cold engine. Shouldnt take much to see which one isnt firing.
              -Joel
              1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
              1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


              WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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              • Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                Thinking out loud here if i pull the fuel rail and attempt to start it all the injectors should cycle right? Trying to think how i can identify which one isnt working.
                Have a remote starter and test light? You can figure out if the injector harness isn't lighting off one of the injectors pretty simple

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                • Where can i get a test light? Same as a timing light?
                  -Joel
                  1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                  1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                  WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                  • Test light:

                    http://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-30779.html

                    2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                    • Originally posted by dawdaw View Post
                      Have a remote starter and test light? You can figure out if the injector harness isn't lighting off one of the injectors pretty simple
                      If he has a buddy to crank it over, which he needed if he was going to remove the rail and crank it, he wouldn't even need the remote starter.

                      Would an injector pulse be visible on a test light? Wasn't sure if it was too quick or anything.
                      2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                      • Thanks Kevin, also there are two wires per injector. Do i need to unclip the harness for this light tester or will it pick ip the pulse through the insulation? I just realized i can pull the fuel pump fuse and safely do this light test. I am worried about fuel building in the exhaust also if its a spark issue. My exhaust dumps near the gas tank a fire there would not be good.
                        -Joel
                        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                        • I would think you'd have to unclip the harness, unless you're OK with stabbing the "pointer" of the light through the insulation...they are made to do that, it's just a question of whether you want to do that.

                          One of the wires has to be a common ground - I'd guess that all injectors have 1 common colored wire and the rest all are different. Clip the end of the light on a ground, like the batter terminal, and then use the test light probe on the "uncommon" wire color for each injector.
                          2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                          • Get a noid light - http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piec...set-97959.html
                            2000 Formula
                            fixed slow junk

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                            • The ground is what makes the injector fire. The connector will have a constant 12v and the injector driver in the PCM grounds the circuit for x amount of time, giving the desired pulse. Best idea is a noid light.
                              2015 Silverado

                              Originally posted by JoeliusZ28
                              If you need 6 and half grand to break your tires loose you shouldnt be attempting a holeshot.

                              Comment


                              • Noid tester or an infred laser thermometer. I have both and the thermometer was the best spent money. Start the car and watch the temps on each primary. Which ever one is cold...winner winner chicken dinner. Takes about 2 min with the correct tool.
                                1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

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