Charlyne 95 Z28 M6

[Fox Slaughter]

Well got the banjo bolt removed on one side. I need to remove the headers completely to take the heads off I think. Because I cant reach the bolts by the spark plugs. I really thinking I just wanna drop the whole engine out with the K member.

[JoeliusZ28]

You wont be disappointed with that cam

[ThreeHonks]

Won't be disappointed with any of the Ai stuff. I would highly recommend sticking with Ai over LE. The phrase "you get what you pay for" applies here 100%

[Fox Slaughter]

What is everything that needs to be disconnected to drop the k member?

[ryanwarby01]

all hoses, brake lines, harness from computer, steering arm and exhaust if I remember right.

[blacklt1firebird]

i did it a few times on my 95 3.4 camaro, if u pay attention u can get it done in like 4-6 hours, just make sure u mark the bolts! n ull need a big breaker bar for those k-frame bolts unless u have an air compressor and impact gun, that makes the job go ALOT faster! the plugs for the harness run behind the passenger side kick panel there's 3 plugs black white n blue i think?? that pop through a grommet in the firewall an u can lay the computer right over top the engine as u lift the body off of it. are u plannin to pull the motor off the trans while its out? make sure u take the bolts off ur driveshaft too.

[Fox Slaughter]

Yeah I'd drop my exhaust as its a X pipe in the way of the trans. Remove transmission attached to engine, then separate. What about powering steering? What has to be done with that? Cause I have the coolant drained, top end besides heads are removed (rockers and push rods are out). So disconnect the harness from the PCM, the steering shaft that goes from the column to the rack, brake hoes from the calipers?, coolant hoses.

Yes I have a few a impact guns. Only way to drop K members.

[ryanwarby01]

You can leave the trans bolted to the motor, just make sure you disconnect those harnes wires, slave cylinder if it's an M6, and remove shifter.

[Fox Slaughter]

Can you leave the shifter connected but take the stick off?

[Boost Addict]

I always took the transmission off before pulling the engine. I use a hoist though. I left the shifter on but removed the stick. It was a little trick but i made it.

[Fox Slaughter]

Does anyone know where to get forged rotating assemblies? 355 or 383?

Compstar 3.75" crank
Compstar 6.00" H beam rods

would that make a 383?

Compstar 3.48" crank
Compstar 6.00" Rods

A 355?

Also since its a 350 block you would want a 350 main crank correct? Journal size for a LT1 is 2.45 correct? Now what does different journal sizes mean and like a 2.100" rod journal compared to a 2.00" journal?

[Lucky SOB]

You don't need to drop the engine out to do a cam swap. You're already far enough that it wouldn't be worth it. Remove the fans and radiator and you'll have enough room to swap cams.

EDIT: now it sounds like you're doing a full rebuild... Ignore the above statement

[Fox Slaughter]

You don't need to drop the engine out to do a cam swap. You're already far enough that it wouldn't be worth it. Remove the fans and radiator and you'll have enough room to swap cams.

EDIT: now it sounds like you're doing a full rebuild... Ignore the above statement

I don't have enough for a full rebuild. I wish did but can't swing it right now. I bought myself a Springfield M1A instead haha. I am just trying to expand my knowledge for when the time comes.

Yeah I might just leave the engine in do a cam valvetrain swap. Then drop when I am ready to rebuild the bottom end.

[blacklt1firebird]

i removed my t-5 and 3.4 together with the stick still on just took the knob off n it slipped right out... i disconnected the brake lines from the proportioning valve personally then slipped the brake lines out with the k frame, disconnect the power steering lines runnin from the pump to the rack at the rack n u should be fine. make sure lift up the back tires, i set my front tires laying flat underneath the rear tires to i didnt have to worry about the back bumper hittin the ground. n a little metal cart to set the k frame on while u unbolt it gives u some more clearance to get the bolts out, especially the annoying ones goin through the control arm. and the cart also helps to roll the whole subframe out from under the body when u lift it up. case of beer n a few friends n u could get it out in one night

EDIT- whoops just got to this page i was still reading the last page haha, ignore the above stuff too, just some helpful things ppl told me about n i learned while pullin the engine, well technically droppin the engine...

[Fox Slaughter]

UPDATE:

Future Engine Plans:

Top End:

• Advanced Induction 200cc heads
• Advanced Induction 226/234 cam
• Advanced Induction Street Strip Ported intake
• Performance Springs Inc. MaxLife Beehive Springs
• CompCams Beehive Spring Steel Retainers
• Machined & Hardened Steel Locks / Keepers
• CompCams Hardened Steel Spring Locators
• OEM Quality Steel Jacketed Viton Seals
• K-Line Valve Seal Installation Driver
• ARP 7/16" Pro Series Rocker Studs
• CompCams 7702 Pushrod Length Checking Tool
• CompCams 1605 Ultra Pro-Mag Rocker Arms - 1.6 Ratio
• Ai Hardened & Black Oxided Steel Guide Plates
• Ai 4130 One Piece Chrome Moly Hardened Pushrods 5/16" x 7.XX" .080" Wall
• Fel-Pro Gasket Kit - Timing Cover gasket, Water Pump gaskets, and Crank/Opti/Pump drive seals
• Fel-Pro 1284 Intake Manifold Gaskets w/RTV

From the springs down is from AI matched valvetrain.

Bottom End:

• Bore block .030 over
• Machine block for stroker crank
• Compstar 4340 Forged 3.75" 350 mains 2.100" rod journals crankshaft
• Compstar H beam 4340 Forged 6.00" rods
• Mahlr Forged Flat Top Pistons 4.030"
• Clevite 77 High Performance Bearings
• GM Performance Double Roller Timing set

Miscellaneous Engine Parts:

• Meziere Electric Water Pump
• 160 degree thermostat
• Pacesetter Racing Long Tubes
• ATI Super Damper Harmonic
• Summit Twin 58mm Throttle Body
• ARP Fasteners

These are future plans when the money becomes available, just so you guys get an idea where I am going with this build.