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hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

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  • hoogiesngrinderz
    replied
    Originally posted by Nocooler View Post
    Rocker bolts need a thread sealant on heads that have the rocker bosses cut out as well.
    Typically ported heads can expose the rocker bolt holes on the intake side, true?



    Mine are stock 317's, rocker bolts torqued to 22 ft-lbs, rotated crank 180* and checked again. Not going to pull the covers. I just overlooked the service manual and nowhere does it state to use thread lock or sealant.

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  • Nocooler
    replied
    Rocker bolts need a thread sealant on heads that have the rocker bosses cut out as well.

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  • Formula Z
    replied
    I did

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  • 1999Black_Z28
    replied
    Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post

    Rockers bolts need loctite? I haven't once read this in any write up or . Not saying your wrong, but I need to know if I have to pull some covers off.
    I always use Loctite on rocker bolts. Think of all the alternating load cycles on those things!

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  • hoogiesngrinderz
    replied
    Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post
    Aftermarket bolts are not torque to yield . Torquing them as such will snap them. Depending on lube the small ones should be 22-25 ft. And the large like 70-75 . Rockers are the only thing that need sealer/loctite
    Yup, OEM style bolts have a loctite already on them and they are stretch bolts. People have reused them but I would never (I know you aren't, just saying in case others reference this post)

    Rockers bolts need loctite? I haven't once read this in any write up or . Not saying your wrong, but I need to know if I have to pull some covers off.

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  • 1BADAIR
    replied
    Aftermarket bolts are not torque to yield . Torquing them as such will snap them. Depending on lube the small ones should be 22-25 ft. And the large like 70-75 . Rockers are the only thing that need sealer/loctite

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  • DETROITMUSCLE
    replied
    no, none of the factory head bolts touch any coolant.

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  • Formula Z
    replied
    Yeah i actually did it oe way then realized I was probably doing it wrong. So I loosened them back up and retorqued to 22 ft lbs for now. Ive also never put sealant on any stock headbolts for coolant jackets, but never had an issue. Now im reading some need it???

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  • DETROITMUSCLE
    replied
    there should be an actual tq spec, I would look on ls1tech and see whats been working for others.

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  • c0ncEpT
    replied
    ARP1.jpg
    ARP2.jpg

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  • Formula Z
    replied
    Ok lets talk torque specs using the ebay studs. Sequence is the same im sure but what about the torque specs? 22 ft lbs then 90 degrees twice for oe headbolts. Do the studs the same or work your way up to a certain torque spec? And what is that number??? Thanks

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  • Formula Z
    replied
    Yeah thats kinda what im leaning towards with the cam that martin specd out for me

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  • Superman09
    replied
    Judging by your sig, did you decide on the 7875 Turbonetics? I have some on the way for stock as well!

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  • Formula Z
    replied
    Btr valvesprings and trunion upgrade complete. Installing heads tomorrow!

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  • hoogiesngrinderz
    replied
    Originally posted by 99t/aman View Post
    When i did my cam swap we set the front cover in place then put the dampner on and used that to center the front cover and then the pan we just leveled with the block.
    did the same for the LSx builds I have done, no leaks in any.

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