lol yea. btw i didnt mean dont get a better axle i just meant get the suspension first. I think ryan will agree with me on that.
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Charlyne 95 Z28 M6
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-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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- March 13th, 2010
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- TJ
- 1995 Chevy Camaro Z28
- Clinton Twp Michigan
- Powerline Tree Trimmer.
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Winter needs to be over.
So I can get Charlyne out of storage and put in the Hurst Billet Plus and UMI Short Stick.Originally posted by Yoshi94Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of thosesigpicOriginally posted by ryanwarby01Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
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- March 13th, 2010
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So here is the plans for spring.
Install Hurst Billet and UMI Short stick.
160* thermostat
Fast Dual Sensor Wideband O2.
TunerCats.
Finish exhaust and get electric cut outs.
Now I am at a toss up for the LT4 Knock Module.
I've read that the LT1 is really sensitive to like headers and loud valvetrain. A guy said that he was having 8 degrees of timing pulled because of headers. I read another article that some people said the LT4 knock module caused more false knocks then their LT1 KM.Originally posted by Yoshi94Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of thosesigpicOriginally posted by ryanwarby01Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
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no problems with knock here, do you have an LT4 knock module?-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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- March 13th, 2010
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No sir. I guess hooking up tunercats will tell the whole story.
By the way when spring comes I got a car for you to wheel =POriginally posted by Yoshi94Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of thosesigpicOriginally posted by ryanwarby01Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
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you got it sir
-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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I wouldn't run the 160 thermostat, unless you are fighting pre-detonation. Which you shouldn't be as long as you have the fuel in the car since it is mostly stock. There is a reason that most modern engines run 200-210*F. The hotter the engine the more efficient it is. A cool running engine is also harder on oil and in turn doesn't lubricate as well.
2011 Mustang GT
20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete
In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade
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Lurker
- March 13th, 2010
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Then we race. I want 15 lengths and you can only half throttle.
I was reading a discussion about this. Someone tried to say oil doesn't work well at cool temperatures because the water can't boil out. Well water boils at 212* so it won't boil off anyways. How can you say the oil won't lube when the mulit viscosity oils are designed to work from below 0 - to over 100?Originally posted by my95z28 View PostI wouldn't run the 160 thermostat, unless you are fighting pre-detonation. Which you shouldn't be as long as you have the fuel in the car since it is mostly stock. There is a reason that most modern engines run 200-210*F. The hotter the engine the more efficient it is. A cool running engine is also harder on oil and in turn doesn't lubricate as well.
Companies like Hennaseey are selling 160* thermos. (I can't spell)Last edited by Fox Slaughter; February 6th, 2011, 02:25 PM.Originally posted by Yoshi94Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of thosesigpicOriginally posted by ryanwarby01Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
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- March 13th, 2010
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The racing part was to Joel.
But lower temperatures will translate to lower intake temps and more degrees of timing correct?Originally posted by Yoshi94Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of thosesigpicOriginally posted by ryanwarby01Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
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Yes you can push an engine further will cooler inlet temps. BUT, you are lowering temps, which harms atomization of fuel inside the combustion chamber. With a 160 you might be able to push it farther before it detonates, but you are also loosing hp because the engine isn't as efficient. Its your decision, but do some research, google is your friend. There is A LOT of information out there on this subject.
2011 Mustang GT
20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete
In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade
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I have been reading about it, a lot of guys say do it and lower the fan kick on temps and a few are saying don't. So the real question is at what temperature does gasoline atomize and if it is at the stock 180* is it worth being able to add more timing net more horsepower than with the stock thermo.Originally posted by Yoshi94Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of thosesigpicOriginally posted by ryanwarby01Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
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This is a good discussion on optimum oil temperatures.Originally posted by Fox Slaughter View PostI was reading a discussion about this. Someone tried to say oil doesn't work well at cool temperatures because the water can't boil out. Well water boils at 212* so it won't boil off anyways. How can you say the oil won't lube when the mulit viscosity oils are designed to work from below 0 - to over 100?
Companies like Hennaseey are selling 160* thermos. (I can't spell)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=103068
Of course oils are designed to work from 0-200+, these are temperatures that normal engines see.
And companies sell it because some really do need it, but for the most part they want people like you to think its a good idea and buy it. Not everything out there is an improvement your car, these are businesses trying to make money.
2011 Mustang GT
20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete
In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade
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#1 the fan temperatures have already been lowered. I believe we set them at 190 and 205? Joel might remember, it was a couple of years ago now.
#2 Fuel atomization gets better with temperature. So the lower you bring it down the worse it is going to be. Google negative effects of a 160 thermostat. Then make the decision for yourself.
2011 Mustang GT
20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete
In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade
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I have no scientific data to reflect this, but i have the 160 degree tstat in my car and the lower my temp gauge is reading the better the engine seems to perform. Do not lower your fan temps either, you defiinitely dont want that drawing on your alternator while its trying to cool the engine to a temperature that isnt optimal anyway. I have my fans on a switch and i use them while I am sitting in traffic... other than that my car would run at 190 all day with no fans on at all.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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