Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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Dont know. Going over final numbers next week. Probably close to a grand is what I will owe the engine shop. I wont say that I dont care what it costs, but Im more concerned with it being done right vs cost.
Dont know. Going over final numbers next week. Probably close to a grand is what I will owe the engine shop. I wont say that I dont care what it costs, but Im more concerned with it being done right vs cost.
As much as it's not friendly on the wallet, that's definitely the right mindset to have.
I say paint the alternator as well. With everything else painted up, and in such a high visibility area, it will look terrible otherwise. I painted mine silver to match my STB, CAI, and elbow, and I thought it turned out pretty good.
Before:
After:
Do it, you'll be glad you did.
1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
Originally posted by JasonH
It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.
Finally an update, hopefully they start to happen more often closer we get to spring.
Motor is going to be ~850 ish without heads put on. Thats for the motor as it was when I brought it into them with cleaning, all new bearings/seals, head bolts, rings, caps, and something else that I forgot.
I went over and got the last few boxes of parts that have not been cleaned/ updated yet.
Also got the trans and bell housing cleaned up and painted.
To repair my heater box...what do I use? Its fiberglass and my old headers burned a hole in it causing my lack of vacuum pressure. JB weld? Fiberglass repair kit?
My heater box has a repair to it by the previous owner that looks to be fiberglass. Should be pretty easy while the engine's out. How big is the hole?
4 inches long, maybe an inch wide.
I put hi temp silicon on it last August just to try and get some better heat since I was going to be driving the car in October. It worked but looks like hell. I have no plans of this motor coming back out under my ownership lol.
I should have mentioned this earlier are you replacing the rod bolts? Thats the weak link of our bottom end, some ARPs would be some extra insurance. Not sure what their cost is.
I put hi temp silicon on it last August just to try and get some better heat since I was going to be driving the car in October. It worked but looks like hell. I have no plans of this motor coming back out under my ownership lol.
I'd definitely do fiberglass then. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two to do it right assuming you're brand new to fiberglassing. Clean the surface where you're glassing, smooth out any rough edges on the crack/hole, use fairly coarse sandpaper to rough up the area you'll be glassing for adhesion, then just follow the instructions in the kit. Let it dry, sand to smooth it down, hit with some flat black paint, and you'll never know it was done.
I should have mentioned this earlier are you replacing the rod bolts? Thats the weak link of our bottom end, some ARPs would be some extra insurance. Not sure what their cost is.
That will require resizing the rods
2015 Silverado
Originally posted by JoeliusZ28
If you need 6 and half grand to break your tires loose you shouldnt be attempting a holeshot.
I should have mentioned this earlier are you replacing the rod bolts? Thats the weak link of our bottom end, some ARPs would be some extra insurance. Not sure what their cost is.
I'd definitely do fiberglass then. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two to do it right assuming you're brand new to fiberglassing. Clean the surface where you're glassing, smooth out any rough edges on the crack/hole, use fairly coarse sandpaper to rough up the area you'll be glassing for adhesion, then just follow the instructions in the kit. Let it dry, sand to smooth it down, hit with some flat black paint, and you'll never know it was done.
Yes I am new to fiberglass. Will the patch be strong enough to standup to my stainless headers?
fiberglass isnt all that hard just read the directions a few dozen times. see if you have any clearance to notch the heater box so you wont melt it against your headers again.
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