I personally wouldn't bother with a compression check. I would however, recommend pressure checking the cooling system and a cylinder leak down. A leak down gauge will tell you what you need to know. Definitely drain that mixed coolant asap!
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i agree with the leakdown but im thinking it would be pointless to check the cooling system pressure... considering there is coolant puddled on the intake and an apparent vaccuum leak, I highly doubt the cooling system is capable of holding any pressure.
I should probably drain the coolant for now, but thats about all im going to do with this thing for the next week or so. My job contract ends next week so I'll have a lot of time to screw around with this thing later.Last edited by JoeliusZ28; March 21st, 2011, 03:27 PM.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

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If you pressure tested it, you may be able to see some coolant seeping from the deck area, indictating the head gasket.Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Posti agree with the leakdown but im thinking it would be pointless to check the cooling system pressure... considering there is coolant puddled on the intake and an apparent vaccuum leak, I highly doubt the cooling system is capable of holding any pressure.2015 Silverado
Originally posted by JoeliusZ28If you need 6 and half grand to break your tires loose you shouldnt be attempting a holeshot.
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How did your meeting with your adviser go? Is there still a possibility of being hired in the future?Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Posti agree with the leakdown but im thinking it would be pointless to check the cooling system pressure... considering there is coolant puddled on the intake and an apparent vaccuum leak, I highly doubt the cooling system is capable of holding any pressure.
I should probably drain the coolant for now, but thats about all im going to do with this thing for the next week or so. My job contract ends next week so I'll have a lot of time to screw around with this thing later.
If case you didn't notice you can drain the block via the knock sensors. When I did mine I only drained the drivers side. I think you have to remove the starter or something to get to the passenger side.
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My current position is definitely being terminated on the 31st. There is another opening that I have good chances of being hired into though, but I'll probably be out of work for at least a month if that even pans out. I don't mind so much, good chance to get caught up on things i need to get done.Originally posted by bri2203 View PostHow did your meeting with your adviser go? Is there still a possibility of being hired in the future?
didnt know that, thanks!!Originally posted by bri2203 View PostIf case you didn't notice you can drain the block via the knock sensors. When I did mine I only drained the drivers side. I think you have to remove the starter or something to get to the passenger side.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

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aka Purple94Z28
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Dont know if anyone has said this or not... but Dexcool(orange stuff) is just a more eco-freindly coolant but its down fall is that it doesnt last, hold up, or keep heat down even close to as well as the green coolant, not to mention the fact that it is proven to gunk up. The green coolant is better in almost every way compared to the dexcool, its only downfall is that it is not eco-friendly. I put only green coolant in every car i work on. It does not matter if it says only use dexcool. The car companys only say that as a way to make their eco-image go up. Also it is not bad to mix the two...i have worked on a few cars were i didnt need to drain all the dexcool and i mix in the green stuff. When i was first woundering about this myself i called around and spoke to a few master mechanics they all said the same thing. Dexcool sucks ASSS!! I have a 160 thermo and green coolant in my car and i never get hotter than 180 mostly runs around 170ish only got to 180 on a hot day in stop in go traffic.
Good luck Joel!...hope you can get it figured out. But just curious have you filled it up with coolant and seen how long it runs before starting to overheat? I know intake gaskets are a huge problem on 3800's in fwd cars...and sometimes the coolant leaks onto the exhaust and burns off...1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
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1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)
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Thanks nick. It could be, just seems to me that it would be hard for coolant to get to the center of the exhaust manifold with the valve cover in the way... which is approximately where i saw it burning. I am going to do more diagnosing work in the upcoming weeks.Originally posted by Purple94Z28 View PostDont know if anyone has said this or not... but Dexcool(orange stuff) is just a more eco-freindly coolant but its down fall is that it doesnt last, hold up, or keep heat down even close to as well as the green coolant, not to mention the fact that it is proven to gunk up. The green coolant is better in almost every way compared to the dexcool, its only downfall is that it is not eco-friendly. I put only green coolant in every car i work on. It does not matter if it says only use dexcool. The car companys only say that as a way to make their eco-image go up. Also it is not bad to mix the two...i have worked on a few cars were i didnt need to drain all the dexcool and i mix in the green stuff. When i was first woundering about this myself i called around and spoke to a few master mechanics they all said the same thing. Dexcool sucks ASSS!! I have a 160 thermo and green coolant in my car and i never get hotter than 180 mostly runs around 170ish only got to 180 on a hot day in stop in go traffic.
Good luck Joel!...hope you can get it figured out. But just curious have you filled it up with coolant and seen how long it runs before starting to overheat? I know intake gaskets are a huge problem on 3800's in fwd cars...and sometimes the coolant leaks onto the exhaust and burns off...
The engine also makes a very peculiar noise while its running that i haven't been able to pinpoint... but it concerns me. Doesnt sound like anything internal.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

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aka Purple94Z28
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Hmmm idk...keep us posted on any new findings. If it was me tho id just get the 150 worth of new gaskets...and go to town on the heads and intake.Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View PostThanks nick. It could be, just seems to me that it would be hard for coolant to get to the center of the exhaust manifold with the valve cover in the way... which is approximately where i saw it burning. I am going to do more diagnosing work in the upcoming weeks.
The engine also makes a very peculiar noise while its running that i haven't been able to pinpoint... but it concerns me. Doesnt sound like anything internal.1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
1999 z28 Hugger Orange RS 1 of >309 (Sold)
1997 z28 White 6 speed Heads and Cam. (Sold)
1994 z28 PPM auto Cam only (Sold)
1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)
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The plan is to do some more diagnosing and go from there. Might just do some gaskets, or the option to buy a used longblock with less than 100k on it has crossed my mind too. For some reason i like this car and i dont want to give up on it just yet.Last edited by JoeliusZ28; March 22nd, 2011, 06:00 AM.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
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well if you change your mind and want to sell it again just let me know. Sean offered to get it once his truck is ready from berger------------------------------------------
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yep that would definitely change my mind
-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

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aka "Plum Nuts"
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Joel if you pull the heads you will need new head bolts also, I know on the lt1 they started to use torque to yeild bolts in 96, would think they did on v6 too. You can tell if you pull valve cover and look at head bolts torque to yeild bolts don't have hardness strike marks. I mention this because thats another cost besides gaskets if they are TTY bolts.sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
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Yep, i believe you are correct about that.Originally posted by Plum Nuts View PostJoel if you pull the heads you will need new head bolts also, I know on the lt1 they started to use torque to yeild bolts in 96, would think they did on v6 too. You can tell if you pull valve cover and look at head bolts torque to yeild bolts don't have hardness strike marks. I mention this because thats another cost besides gaskets if they are TTY bolts.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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