1981 Camaro Z28

[MP81]

Cut the smaller shaft down - the Dremel was the perfect tool, as there wasn't really much room for anything else in there. The lower U-joint then fit all the way onto the steering box. Got the steering shaft installed into that one, and extended it back out to attach the upper U-joint. There's still some play - but I think it may be the "regular' amount that there should be in the system - we shall see once I get the car out.

I still need to remove one of the lower set screws to cut it down, as it is running into the subframe and stopping the wheel from turning. I went to do this, but forgot just how quickly the primaries warm up - and how close I was to the headers - burned my index finger and in pulling out my hand as a reaction, cut the bottom of my hand. Double whammy!

I also need to correct the set screw on the top of the steering box. I backed it back out about 1.5 turns, as I had turned it until it was tight before, when I thought it was the steering box. Will have to play with that more as well. It seemed to be happier when I did that, but I can't tell for sure yet.

Steering box input shaft cut down about 3/8" or so:


Steering shaft and U-joints installed. You can see the offending set screw.

[MP81]

Got the set screw cut down (perhaps a little too far - but the lock nut threads on and tightens down, so clearly there is enough - I'll check the condition after about 100 miles when I go to tighten everything up. Can always find myself another, shorter set screw that'll work just as well. I'm not able to turn the steering wheel all the way in either direction, so I assume I am not hitting, though I'd like to see just how close I am. Theoretically, there should be very little movement between the U-joint and the subframe, considering the steering box is mounted to the subframe, and the column shouldn't really be moving further up.

I backed the steering box off 1.5 turns on Wednesday, and I'm hoping that was enough to put it in "properly adjusted land". I need to see if I mentioned anywhere how many turns I tightened it by before - I'm sure it could have used some adjustment in, given its age. Everything feels like it should, sitting in the garage, though. It's wonderful.

I need to figure out what the hell is causing this squeak, though. I can't tell if it's the springs - or the shocks. I'd rather it be the shocks, but they're nearly brand new, so I can't imagine they'd be squeaking. It happens on compression and rebound.

[DynoDave]

Any urethane bushings in the parts you installed?

[MP81]

Only the sway bar bushings, and those (not the end links, but they're really not "squeakable") are slathered in grease. All my control arm bushings are Delrin, which I hear still can squeak if the connections are too tight (bolts are torqued to spec, but some people say that has caused their bushings to drag on their cars)

Planning to get the front corners up in the air tomorrow and take the wheel and tire off and hopefully use the jack to replicate the sound. Then maybe I can pinpoint where it is coming from...if it seems like a bushing, a quick spray of PB Blaster of WD40 should quiet down the squeak quickly, which will tell me where its at.

[MP81]

Determined yesterday, via the suggestion from NastyZ28, that the loud squeak was actually the top shock bushing washer rubbing on the subframe. That little part made that loud of a squeak - crazy! I was able to turn it on and off simply by pushing down on it while pushing down on the fender.

Sweated my ass off today (in the humidity) and ground each washer down a bit on the inside side (if you can refer to a circle as having sides) to provide clearance to the subframe. Viola - no more squeak.

While I had each tire off, I looked at the ball joints, having had issues with greasing them during assembly. I think the knurled section was too tight and preventing the grease gun from pushing down the ball valve in the zerk fitting (I had to remove it with channel locks). Once it was loosened, I hand tightened it, and watched the ball joint boots fill right up. I feel much better about those now, knowing they are, in fact, greased.

Hoping to take it out for a spin tomorrow and see if everything truly is good - I need to toe-out the front tires a little more, they're pretty far toed in (I went a bit overboard on getting rid of the toe-out it had).

[MP81]

Pictures of the shock washer clearancing (sort of hard to see, but it didn't need a ton):




But that pertains more to the last update. The more exciting part is that I got the car out today for a spin! I took a look from the back of the car and it really seemed like the toe in on the driver side was fine (present but not excessive) but the passenger side was pretty heavy on the toe-in. So much so, it rubbed into the sway bar. Brought it back to an equal amount of toe in as the other side, and it does not appear to rub anymore before the inside edge of the driver-side tire hits the wheelhouse. Taking the car out, it's immediately apparent that the steering feels how it is "supposed to", there's no sketchy play (maybe a little in the steering box - but it's not unpredictable, it makes sense, if...that makes sense, haha). The car has never driven so good. It rides great, it turns great, the tires no longer rub in the wheel wells in the subdivision like they used to - and that shorter shifter, wow is that a world of difference.

That out of the way, I can feel a slight "interference" just off center, which I think may be the lock nut on the lower U-joint just touching the subframe. Even the round portion of the U-joint is very close to the subframe. So I think it is in my best interest to pull the shaft and...massage...that area of the subframe, just a little, to give it some breathing room. But it did seem like my adjustment on the steering box was good (I think, at least, assuming that "click" I feel in the wheel isn't in the box) - the steering wheel seemed to be pretty normal (too tight I believe means it won't center itself, and I didn't notice any of that behavior). But aside from wanting a touch more clearance to make myself feel a bit happier, everything worked absolutely beautifully - this thing wants to turn, even with those massive sidewalls.

[DynoDave]

Shock washer squeak....that's crazy. I've never seen that before.

Glad your suspension and steering improvements provided the needed / desired result.

[MP81]

Neither have I, and initially I dismissed the possibility entirely, because I put the shocks on back in 2016 and never had an issue.

My guess is that the lower control arms changed the shock angle just enough (likely intentionally - the angle of the shock to the spring, as well as both to the spring pocket, is an important aspect of suspension geometry) where the washer touched - and I mean barely touched. Maybe 1/8" wide patch of contact that I could see on the washer.

[MP81]

Took the car out yesterday evening over to our friend's house elsewhere in Washington, with my wife, and it felt great to drive it once again - though I absolutely detest trying to get it out of the garage. After Austin Powersing about 5 times, I still end up driving all over my lawn.

Still needs an alignment, and I need to have her run at a set speed in either of the cars with the digital speedo, so I can confirm or tweak my speedo, just to be sure.

[MP81]

Forgot to post this Wednesday. Got home from the plant at around 3PM and since it was the last warm day, I figured what better time to take the car out for a quick spin. Timed it well - it started to rain just as I was backing it into the garage.

Still needs an alignment, and the power steering pump was whining, so I'm probably low on fluid or something, too.

No matter, still felt good to rip through the gears and drive the car. Backing it into the garage is much better than pulling it in - I don't have to Austin-Powers it in the driveway and still end up on the grass trying to get it out.

[JoeliusZ28]

At least one of our 305s is *****in again!

[MP81]

Hopefully in a week and a half (dyno day) we'll find out the headers and exhaust made it even more *****in!

[DynoDave]

We'll have to see how the schedule works out, but I"d love to throw my 305 up there, just to see what it has. Factory rated at 170, so 140-150 at the wheel, less 30 years of age to cap/rotor/plugs/wires. and with I think a small vac. leak at the TBI base (idles a little high). Probably get 130! LOL

[MP81]

You should! We'll be there from 9-2(ish) so plenty of time...and a good reason to avoid work.

For what it's worth, mine was rated at 165 HP, at the crank and put down 147 HP at the wheels, 37 years later.

The only thing it had done to it at that point was the cat wasn't the old terrible plate style, it had been replaced with a newer one at some point (probably after my uncle removed the original cat, ran without one, then was likely forced into putting one back on for emissions compliance).

[JoeliusZ28]

Those 305s are just underrated screamers.