1981 Camaro Z28

[JoeliusZ28]

Its no 15 minute job but i wouldnt think it would be difficult. It just bolts to the frame rail. if youre looking at a truck unit you could probably source one for dirt cheap at US Auto.

[MP81]

I think it's full size car - as in B-Body (Caprice, probably).

Yeah, looks like you just need a pitman arm puller, and then it should unbolt. I'm assuming the shaft unbolts right there too.

[JoeliusZ28]

Yes the right tools will be critical especially when sourcing one from a junk yard. do your homework on that part before you get frustrated and angry

[MP81]

I think I'm just going to buy a reman'd one. One less dirty grimy thing to deal with, and less work on my part. Cost really doesn't seem to be too crazy, to be honest.

Timing wise, too, it'll be quicker just to order a "new" one.

And looking into it more, perhaps ordering an actually-new one might be an even better idea. Remans can be hit or miss regarding the same kind of play I'm experiencing. Everything else I've done is new...why buck the trend. Costs more, but it's new. https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-s...ring-box-easy/

https://www.jegs.com/i/Borgeson/153/800130/10002/-1

[JoeliusZ28]

For that price id be going reman but whatever you decide dont second guess yourself just do it and get it done.

[MP81]

Yeah, I thought about it, but I've read it's real hit or miss. I posted it on NastyZ28 - seeing if someone has some feedback either way. If reman is proven to be fine, as long as I get the fast ratio box, that's fine. I just don't want to put something in that'll be no better.

[JoeliusZ28]

Yeah, I thought about it, but I've read it's real hit or miss. I posted it on NastyZ28 - seeing if someone has some feedback either way. If reman is proven to be fine, as long as I get the fast ratio box, that's fine. I just don't want to put something in that'll be no better.

if that happens you warranty it out. slop in the steering is not normal.

[MP81]

Yeah, though that's just more time out of commission. I've asked on NZ28 if there have been any "favorites" for reman. If I can get something that has a good track record and not spend $450 on it, I'd be plenty happy, as long as it has the fast ratio and equal travel I want.

[GlennT]

I'm the same way. I'm sick of doing jobs two or three times, because parts suck right out of the box. Internet reviews have to be taken with a grain of salt, but still... I want to do it once, with confidence. When 20% say something is crap, that's too much of a gamble for me.

[MP81]

Yeah, that's where I'm at with it. If I go the reman route, it'd be from a mid-late 80's B-Body, but if I go new, I think it'd be that one. Clearly, I'd love to save a couple hundred bucks, but I need to be sure it's not going to bite me in the ass.

[MP81]

Had some motivation to go start disassembly today to prep removal of the steering box, and I'm glad I did...I don't think it's the steering box - the rag joint, which somehow I entirely overlooked before, is absolutely toast - all the play is in the rag joint, from what I can tell. I can move the intermediate shaft and/or rotate it without the steering box turning at all.

I removed the intermediate shaft, since I'm lucky enough to have rivets in the rag joint, so now I just need to find the proper rag joint, drill out the rivets and reinstall...




I should not be able to flex the rag joint with one hand, with little effort

[DynoDave]

Good catch. I was going to ask about it...it's a common failure/complaint on 3rd gens. too...but just assumed you had already eliminated it as a possibility.

[MP81]

I thought so too...until I realized that my dumbass had a brain fart and mistook the U-joint up near the brake booster as the rag joint.

So, there are two avenues I am pursuing.

1) I buy a complete shaft - U-joint and rag joint. The boot on my U-joint is shot, anyway, and buying the full assembly gives me a riveted rag joint, rather than a bolt-in replacement. And requires me to drill exactly 0 rivets out.
2) I convert to a Borgeson U-joint setup, with the lower joint also being an isolation damper, but not a wear-item like a rag joint. Guys on NastyZ28 seem to swear by the setup. It's about double the cost, but should not fail again like a rag joint will.

[ktl711]

I thought so too...until I realized that my dumbass had a brain fart and mistook the U-joint up near the brake booster as the rag joint.

So, there are two avenues I am pursuing.

1) I buy a complete shaft - U-joint and rag joint. The boot on my U-joint is shot, anyway, and buying the full assembly gives me a riveted rag joint, rather than a bolt-in replacement. And requires me to drill exactly 0 rivets out.
2) I convert to a Borgeson U-joint setup, with the lower joint also being an isolation damper, but not a wear-item like a rag joint. Guys on NastyZ28 seem to swear by the setup. It's about double the cost, but should not fail again like a rag joint will.

Well, I like the idea of the Borgeson unit, as this is a car you'll probably have until you die, or until you hand it off to some as of yet unconceived offspring.

[MP81]

Absolutely - and eBay has a 15% off code right now, and Summit has all these parts in stock - and they are on eBay. Ordering now.

Plus, it seems that with that setup, you lose any of the slop or disconnection even a brand new rag joint would have.