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1981 Camaro Z28

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  • Worse come to worse - you're not reusing the springs, just cut them
    JoeliusZ28 likes this.

    13th!!! Annual Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2017
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    "The winner ain't the one with the fastest car, it's the one who refuses to lose."
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    • ^yep that'll do the trick. Theyre sagged out anyway right?
      -Joel
      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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      • I mean, I'm hoping so - but they're also still under quite a bit of compression...cutting them sounds terrifying.

        I think "The Hammer" may be my best option. I'm hoping they don't have all of their 365 lb/in spring rate, so that if it does shift a bit, it's not 10 feet into my face.
        Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

        "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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        • I mean id have have safety goggles underneath a face shield, and some thick clothing on but "are you silly? Im still gonna send it."

          I would recommend cutting 2/3 through the coil and then giving it a good blast with a BFH and hopefully the pressure/shock finishes it off the rest of the way from a safe distance.
          Last edited by JoeliusZ28; March 13th, 2018, 12:43 PM.
          -Joel
          1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
          1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


          WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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          • I'm hoping BFH just allows it to come out in the slightly less sketchy way of lowering the jack.
            Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

            "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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            • Not quite sure I follow what you're wrestling with, but if you are trying to remove an old spring that is still somewhat compressed....how about heating the spring, like you were going to lower it...I've watched it done in-car....heat, heat, heat, and when it hits that magic temp, the car will drop. Doing it just the amount you want is the trick in those situations. But for you? Do it in 2 or 3 spots, and let it collapse. Not cutting it through, just collapsing it.
              DynoDave
              POCI # 72200



              1988 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

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              • That's not a bad idea either. I still have my buddy's MAPP torch.
                Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                • good idea. you could also set an acetylene torch next to it and just wait for it to cut while you stand 30 feet away.
                  -Joel
                  1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                  1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                  WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                  • That sounds fun.

                    I also thought of just having left the ball joint nut off, and drop the jack entirely, and leaving it there and waiting for it to eventually blow the LCA down.

                    But with my luck, it'd wait until I was walking back over.
                    Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                    "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                    • This thing isn't done yet?!
                      JoeliusZ28 likes this.
                      2011 Ford Raptor SuperCrew
                      SVT Beadlock Wheels
                      Roush Intake, Corsa Exhaust
                      20" and 40" Light Bars

                      2000 Camaro Z28
                      Stripped Down Drag Car Build

                      Project 1999 Camaro Z28


                      2009 G8 GT Stryker Blue Metallic-SHEGONE
                      Crate LS3, LS9 Cam, LSA Supercharger, Metco Solid Isolator
                      RotoFab Intake, HSRK, Camaro Trans Pan
                      ZL1 HX, ZL1 Fuel Pump, CTS-V Lid, LSA Injectors
                      Pat G - 93 Octane Tune
                      Kooks 1-7/8" Longtubes, High Flow Cats, X Pipe, Solo AxleBacks
                      CTS-V Calipers, Brembo Pads
                      H&R Lowering Springs, Whiteline Bushings, FE3 Struts/Shocks, Camaro 20" Wheels
                      HIDs, LED Conversion, Atari Gauges, Tint, Roof Carbon Fiber Wrapped, Innovative Wideband

                      2.55 Lingenfelter Pulley and Injectors waiting to go on!
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                      • Hell no! I don't work on it for very long, and really only on the weekends - basically the time between lunch and dinner. I get dirty enough that I have to immediately go take a shower, and then I don't want to go back out.

                        But given the roads are in complete disrepair, and it seems to keep snowing, I still have a good amount of time. Once I get this stupid spring out, it's just removing the LCA and replacing it (which, on the other side was not too difficult - but this side has proven to be more of a *****), then swapping the front sway bar (which is like...four bolts, and the end links, which are already attached to the LCA via spherical bushings at the end). Then I can replace the inner/outer tie rods, the center link and the idler arm, as well as the tie-rod adjusters (Proforged sells a package of all of the above, and their stuff really seems to be top notch - it comes with their billet adjusters I was going to get anyway, instead of the crappy clamp-style, and their idler arm seems to have the smaller rotational joint that my swaybar requires - Moog is too large and will rub).

                        Then that's it for the front end, and moving on to the leaf springs. Rear sway bar requires quite a bit of drilling, so if push comes to shove, that can wait.
                        Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                        "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                        • Originally posted by MP81 View Post
                          Hell no! I don't work on it for very long, and really only on the weekends - basically the time between lunch and dinner. I get dirty enough that I have to immediately go take a shower, and then I don't want to go back out.

                          But given the roads are in complete disrepair, and it seems to keep snowing, I still have a good amount of time. Once I get this stupid spring out, it's just removing the LCA and replacing it (which, on the other side was not too difficult - but this side has proven to be more of a *****), then swapping the front sway bar (which is like...four bolts, and the end links, which are already attached to the LCA via spherical bushings at the end). Then I can replace the inner/outer tie rods, the center link and the idler arm, as well as the tie-rod adjusters (Proforged sells a package of all of the above, and their stuff really seems to be top notch - it comes with their billet adjusters I was going to get anyway, instead of the crappy clamp-style, and their idler arm seems to have the smaller rotational joint that my swaybar requires - Moog is too large and will rub).

                          Then that's it for the front end, and moving on to the leaf springs. Rear sway bar requires quite a bit of drilling, so if push comes to shove, that can wait.
                          Well if you need a hand let me know
                          2011 Ford Raptor SuperCrew
                          SVT Beadlock Wheels
                          Roush Intake, Corsa Exhaust
                          20" and 40" Light Bars

                          2000 Camaro Z28
                          Stripped Down Drag Car Build

                          Project 1999 Camaro Z28


                          2009 G8 GT Stryker Blue Metallic-SHEGONE
                          Crate LS3, LS9 Cam, LSA Supercharger, Metco Solid Isolator
                          RotoFab Intake, HSRK, Camaro Trans Pan
                          ZL1 HX, ZL1 Fuel Pump, CTS-V Lid, LSA Injectors
                          Pat G - 93 Octane Tune
                          Kooks 1-7/8" Longtubes, High Flow Cats, X Pipe, Solo AxleBacks
                          CTS-V Calipers, Brembo Pads
                          H&R Lowering Springs, Whiteline Bushings, FE3 Struts/Shocks, Camaro 20" Wheels
                          HIDs, LED Conversion, Atari Gauges, Tint, Roof Carbon Fiber Wrapped, Innovative Wideband

                          2.55 Lingenfelter Pulley and Injectors waiting to go on!
                          sigpic

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                          • Originally posted by s.reef View Post

                            Well if you need a hand let me know
                            Oh, I definitely will let you know.

                            Facebook just reminded me with one of the pics from working on the Monte:

                            Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                            "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                            • I didn't get a chance to get any pics before we went down to Georgia, but got all the new Proforged steering components (including Billet aluminum tie rod sleeves - much better looking than the stock style), as well as (another) new pair of wiper blades (these will clear the hood - the ones I bought prior don't). All the suspension components are greasable, as well, which is what I was looking for, to replace what are definitely original components.


                              Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                              "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

                              Comment


                              • Was able to (finally) get back out into the garage and work on the car today. You know, whenever you're having trouble on something, and deem something "totally not the problem, no way it could possibly be"...it's likely the problem.

                                Deadlifted the spindle off the ball joint (after using my shiny new safety chain to secure the spring, to put my fears of getting hit in the face to rest) and watched the control arm drop exactly as I expected it to. Pulled the jack out and one more good hit to the control arm (as the spring still had a slight bit of compression to it) and it "popped" (pop is a bit of an understatement - I was happy to have put the chain on it!) right out. Got the lower control arm out, and put all the new parts in. Having a bit extra time/motivation/energy to play with, I removed the stock sway bar and got the driver side tie rod out of the spindle, and the cotter pin/nut out of the pitman arm and called it a day.

                                I'm just happy to be done with the coil springs, finally.

                                Old versus new:



                                Stock lower control arm - bushings are pretty far shot, and that bump stop is toast.




                                All buttoned up:





                                Stock sway bar. Those bushings look...wonderful.


                                Last edited by MP81; April 14th, 2018, 04:37 PM.
                                Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                                "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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