K10 Project

[JoeliusZ28]

Theres a number of opinions in that thread saying a full vacuum source is best for the street. I believe i have the truck working the way GM designed to be working, as i have it right now so yes it probably is "good to go" and i dont need to worry about it. However it sounds like i can eliminate the hot/shaky idle if i change to a full vacuum source for the advance and get more advance at idle. Id probably have to set the base timing a little lower. Right now im at 12 degrees. I plan on taking this thing on the dunes and i dont want it building unecessary heat, it'll be making plenty under that load as it is. Just something i can experiment with i guess its easy enough to change.

[9T8W66]

The vacuum advance is designed to give additional timing at freeway speeds. Personally I would buy a recurve kit for the distributor and set the initial timing around 16-18* then back it off slightly if it gets spark knock. Bumping up the initial timing should also smooth out the idle.

[JoeliusZ28]

Yep thats what im noticing.... bumping the base timing from 10 to 12 degrees eliminated a lot of the huffing/puffing it was doing at idle before. Theres still some there though, so i think it wants more idle advance.

I need to do some research on the total advance each mechanism in distributor generates and go from there. I might be limited in my adjustability with the stock distributor and carb.

[1BADAIR]

ooooooo joel
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=731826

[s.reef]

ooooooo joel
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=731826

That is something worth saving and tucking away. For being so clean why wouldn't you just repaint/replace the mirror?

[JoeliusZ28]

Planning on attacking the radiator soon/tonight. Its been spraying coolant all over the fender every time i take it over 3500 rpm Per [MENTION=709]bri2203[/MENTION]'s advice im probably going to have the stock unit rebuilt since we know it fits and the construction is better than an oreilys generic.... Might go all out and do a 4-core so this thing stays cool on the dunes.

[MP81]

So it is still giving you trouble. At least it's not exactly anything difficult to remove.

[JoeliusZ28]

Ive still been driving it around. It only leaks at high rpm... Otherwise it stays dry. Kind of amusing but also not confidence inspiring

[JoeliusZ28]

Also, its been a while but i forgot to give a shoutout to Rich at [MENTION=3142]Detroit Gearbox[/MENTION] for good honest work on the transmission. Highly recommend him! Unfortunately for me, Rich was right from the beginning about the wrong fluid in the trans being the cause of my problem, but i had him complete the inspection anyway and he took care of a front input seal which was the only thing that wasnt quite up to snuff. All is good is good now. Ive got 85w-90 gl4 gear oil in the trans now and it hasnt made a noise since. The shifts are slightly firmer but i expected that. All of my oil leaks (oil pan, tcase adapter) are now fixed as well since ive got the proper gaskets.

[MP81]

Also, its been a while but i forgot to give a shoutout to @Detroit Gearbox for good honest work on the transmission. Highly recommend him! Unfortunately for me, Rich was right from the beginning about the wrong fluid in the trans being the cause of my problem, but i had him complete the inspection anyway and he took care of a front input seal which was the only thing that wasnt quite up to snuff. All is good is good now. Ive got 85w-90 gl4 gear oil in the trans now and it hasnt made a noise since. The shifts are slightly firmer but i expected that. All of my oil leaks (oil pan, tcase adapter) are now fixed as well since ive got the proper gaskets.

Certaily peace of mind, knowing the trans has been gone over/through.

Mine can be kind of "notchy" getting into/out of the reverse gate, but I'm guessing that's just the linkage - or maybe it's by design?

[JoeliusZ28]

Probably nature of the beast, reverse is usually a straight cut non-synchro'd gear. The granny low gear in my sm465 is kinda tricky to find too.

[JoeliusZ28]

Got the radiator out tonight. Seems like i might have another false alarm... I dont see any cracks/leaks in the radiator but the hoses, connections, and core of the radiator all look kinda mucked up. I'm gonna have it recored anyway, all new hoses, tstat, etc... Also the gaskets on the water pump look terrible and although i can tell the pump has been replaced it must have been a fairly long time ago judging by the hoses/coolant so im considering replacing that too. Belts look like theyre in varying condition so im going to replace those. Fan clutch looks new and it looks like a previous owner deleted the air pump... Never noticed it was missing in the spot gm had it wedged into. Overall it hasnt been too bad of a job so far just messy.

Radiator lifted straight out the top... Only 3 connections with a manual trans:


Engine bay with a lot of the stuff out of the way:

[MP81]

You certainly have a lot of room to work.

[JoeliusZ28]

That is one of the things i love about this truck. Both plenty of space and space isnt wasted... Other than the emissions crap

Also a new water pump is a whopping $30, so im going to just go ahead and replace it. I love how cheap parts are for this thing.

[Darren]

I see so much in that engine bay that needs to be removed. Does the AC actually work?