'94 firebird formula.

[DynoDave]

chrysler 3.6 doesnt have manifolds. It has Manifertors

Doesn't the GM corporate 3.6L also have manifolds cast as part of the head (at least in rwd use, like the 5th gen. Camaro)?

[formula218]

Finally got the bastard out, the heads were so cold from sitting in the garage that they were sucking all the heat out of the bolt. Finally got it though. Headers are on it now. Waiting for a pilot bearing and Tick remote bleeder then I think it'll be ready to go back in!

[formula218]

Moved the nitrous bottle so that I can reach it without getting out of the car, and now I can more comfortably remove the rear bumper bar and not worry about the tank being in the back.

The engine should hopefully be going back under next weekend, I got the last things I think I needed, transmission fluid, pilot bearing, and a Tick remote bleeder.

[Gregs_gsxr]

the tick bleeder is very nice. I'll be using one this summer probably after the wedding though.

[formula218]

We used these wooden dollys to roll the complete trans/engine around.


Lifted the car, rolled it under, and dropped in onto the k-member!



Reunited and it feels so good!!!

[formula218]

(filmed with a potato, apparently)

Well she cranked over yesterday!! But no start yet. I needed to get two different fittings for the fuel. One I got was a 90° and needs to be straight because it's hitting something, and my push to connect fuel line dick for the c5 regulator needs to be 3/8" and I ordered 5/16", so new parts are on their way.

[FASHOOTER]

Nice! Looks like you will be ready for spring

[formula218]

IT'S ALIVE!!! this was the first fire up, it had a huge vacuum leak so it's was struggling to stay going. It's open headers right now, I've got a ORY and a Magnaflow 6" race muffler that's going to go on it eventually.

This was after we plugged the vac leak and got it to idle smoothly. Only CELs it's got right now if for trans stuff because it thinks it's an auto. I've got to replace the clutch master cylinder, cut the rad support to fit a SLP lid, and then put the radiator back in and it'll be ready for the road!!

[hoogiesngrinderz]

I think you need to change Tach Output Resolution High and Low values to 3 to work with the LT1 tach.

[formula218]

i won't be doing the tuning myself, but i'll pass the message along. the tach was working, in the second vid it sat at about 1k then dropped to 400rpms to idle. i'm not sure if that's accurate though with what you mentioned not done.

[formula218]

@JoeliusZ28 i read your writeup about putting a LS1 lid into your Camaro, why did you have to cut the bottom of the plastic radiator support out? i'm going to be doing it to my car and don't want to cut that because i think it holds the SLP air duct. i don't have ac so i'm hoping that's what was in the way. hopefully there is no clearance issues with the SLP lid and my cowl hood.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

400 is way too low of a reading, you should be almost twice that at idle on the tach. 3/3 should put you close, LS1 is 6/6 hi and low for the tach.

[formula218]

ok thank you, i sent my buddy with HPT a text reminding him to do that. i thought it seemed low.

[mcalus]

Glad to hear things are going well. The engine bay / motor looks really clean.

What did it take (cost wise) to swap your the lt1 t56 to an ls1? Who did you have do it?

[formula218]

thank you!

i think the grand total for parts was $480. i got a used LS bell housing and the rest new from Liberty Gears. i had to swap out the front plate, input shaft/race/bearing, and bell housing. after swapping the parts out i sold the LT stuff for way more than i expected to, it ended up costing me $100-150 to convert. i also to buy a hydrolic throw out bearing so that set be back a little more, and a remote bleeder and McLeod clutch line to make things easier in the future but those wouldn't be necessary if on a budget.

i've been lucky enough to be able to sell pretty much every part i've taken off the car to help offset the cost of doing the swap.