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'93 Formula "Sleeper"

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  • Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
    Ask questions, they save headaches and frustration. You'll learn a lot that way and keep us sharp, or as sharp as can be...

    Once you get into the things that haven't been done before, you're on your own - R&D at its finest.

    Anyway, shoot me a PM if you ever feel like you are second guessing yourself.
    Ive been second guessing myself through this whole project. Now I know what I did wrong, and getting the car running again won't be an issue. When it comes to rebuilding, when that time comes, I'll be in way over my head. . . I guess I need to start leaning a little more heavily on the knowledge base here rather than letting myself get worked up by failing. . .

    I am seriously considering helicoiling the stock heads and leaving the 643's off to have them ported over the winter, but my friends are trying to convince me to pull the motor and rebuild it and the trans over the winter. . . . Decisions, decisions. Lol


    BIG Thank You to Tyler for helping me out over the phone. . . Now you know why I was having trouble setting preload with these suckers! Lol
    Nick H.
    Current MIFC Vice President

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    • And apparently I'm mistaken again, the lt1s have thread-in rocker studs. . . Friend of mine told me they are pressed in from the factory, but that only applies to the iron head LT1s. . .

      Ill be ordering the guide plates next week, and I'll just swap them out a little later. For now, the car will be getting new head gaskets, oil change, and coolant flush, and the stock rockers will be going back on to get it running again. There's still hope! Haha
      Nick H.
      Current MIFC Vice President

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      • GMPP makes nice guide plates from what I hear, part number 14011051 if my searching is correct. Some plates and another set of push rods the drive the *****!

        1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
        1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
        1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

        2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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        • Not a problem Nick, im here to help. and as was proven Mikes a great source of info. as for your rebuilding the whole engine i say get this one together and find another block and stuff to play with. if you can get one at a decent price it may be worth your while because you can still play with your car.
          91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
          85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
          00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
          97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

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          • Originally posted by TylerT/AZ28 View Post
            Not a problem Nick, im here to help. and as was proven Mikes a great source of info. as for your rebuilding the whole engine i say get this one together and find another block and stuff to play with. if you can get one at a decent price it may be worth your while because you can still play with your car.
            I agree. Don't rip the current engine out and leave the car sitting. Leave it driveable. Helps keep the motivation up.
            95' Formula: A4, 3.23'S, K&N CAI, Granatelli MAF, Trickflow Elbow, tune from previous owner. Best 1/4 of 13.91.

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            • Originally posted by TylerT/AZ28 View Post
              Not a problem Nick, im here to help. and as was proven Mikes a great source of info. as for your rebuilding the whole engine i say get this one together and find another block and stuff to play with. if you can get one at a decent price it may be worth your while because you can still play with your car.
              That's what Chris and I were just talking about. Been mulling over the 4 bolt block in the For Sale section for a couple days. . . That, an engine stand, and a credit card with no limit would get it done. haha
              Nick H.
              Current MIFC Vice President

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              • engine stand can be had cheap at harbor freight or craigslist. if you leave your engine in and build a side one then you have less stress worrying about issues and waiting to get it back in the car. you also dont really have a time limit because your car is still driveable and you can still play with it. your basically getting all your nuts in one basket before you even attempt to put it in the car
                91 Trans am, 305, Lt1 cam, 24lb injectors, headers, SLP LM2, SW chassis, massive panhard, lowered, modded TPI, Tuned, 4.10s, Lincoln locked
                85 Z28 406/th400?/3.42 4th gen disc rear/4th gen dash
                00 Tahoe Z71........Stock
                97 K1500 lt4 cam, 1.6s, MPFI, Solid axled, IROKs,------winter beater

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                • Originally posted by TylerT/AZ28 View Post
                  engine stand can be had cheap at harbor freight or craigslist. if you leave your engine in and build a side one then you have less stress worrying about issues and waiting to get it back in the car. you also dont really have a time limit because your car is still driveable and you can still play with it. your basically getting all your nuts in one basket before you even attempt to put it in the car
                  That's exactly the reason I'm looking for another block, because I don't want to leave the car parked for months on end, I'd rather build the engine while I'm still able to enjoy the car.

                  Also looking into buying a T56 swap, I've wanted to do the swap since I bought the car. That is one of the things that will happen when the engine is ready to go in, that way I can just bolt them up, drop them in, and call it done.
                  Nick H.
                  Current MIFC Vice President

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                  • We're about to burn the candles at both ends and try to get this done tonight. . . Starting at 6pm, I have everything I need to re-do the head gaskets, and the stock rockers will go back on after its all ready to go. Wish me luck!
                    Nick H.
                    Current MIFC Vice President

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                    • Call me if you need any over the phone help bud. Goodluck!!
                      95' Formula: A4, 3.23'S, K&N CAI, Granatelli MAF, Trickflow Elbow, tune from previous owner. Best 1/4 of 13.91.

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                      • Good luck!
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                        U.S. Army 1983-2005
                        11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                        Originally posted by WMCCjames

                        "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

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                        • Good Luck!
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                          355 LT1 M6. 232/240 LE cam. 21* Trick Flow heads. Fully ported intake. 58mm TPIS tb. 42# SVO Injectors. LS7 Lifters. Moser 9" TrueTrac w/ 4.22 gears. True Duals. UMI Suspension. LS1 brake swap. Dr. Phil tuned 400ish rwhp. Money Pit.

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                          • Had the drivers side head removed in under an hour and a half, cleaned it up, replaced the gasket, applied thread sealer, torqued the bolts according to the instructions on shbox.com, installed and set preload on the stock rockers, and called it a night. Tomorrow I just need to install the drivers side header, install the intake, do a quick oil change to get rid of the coolant in the oil, and she should be good to start and set valve lash. Once the valves are set, I'll shut it down, check the oil for coolant, clean up the tools and spare parts, and take it for a quick spin around the block. If everything checks out, I'll have it home tomorrow, and I'll do some more local test drives before the weekend. Hoping to be able to drive it to work on Friday night. So far, everything is going good to accomplish that goal, assuming there isn't something wrong with the head.

                            Guideplates are only about $15-$20, hardened pushrods are $100, so I'll get those ordered after I get the bills covered, and hopefully I'll have that project finished before September 2nd so I can take my car when we plot the route for the MIFC fall cruise.

                            I have some big things in the works, some of you will think I'm crazy for doing what I'm going to do with a high-mileage, less-than-stellar condition LT1 Formula, but I think I'll surprise some folks when it's all said and done.
                            Nick H.
                            Current MIFC Vice President

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                            • You will only need guide plates if you're using nsa rockers. Did you use poly locks on your current rockers?
                              sigpic

                              355 LT1 M6. 232/240 LE cam. 21* Trick Flow heads. Fully ported intake. 58mm TPIS tb. 42# SVO Injectors. LS7 Lifters. Moser 9" TrueTrac w/ 4.22 gears. True Duals. UMI Suspension. LS1 brake swap. Dr. Phil tuned 400ish rwhp. Money Pit.

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                              • Originally posted by ryanwarby01 View Post
                                You will only need guide plates if you're using nsa rockers. Did you use poly locks on your current rockers?
                                Wrist using stock hardware with the stock rockers to get the car running again. The 1.6RRs are NSA, that's how we bent and broke pushrods and trashed the head gasket in the first place, we thought they were SA, but I just didn't pay attention when I looked them over.

                                I have poly locks, they will be going on when I swap the 1.6RRs, pushrods, and guide plates in. I'll get that stuff ordered in the next couple weeks.
                                Nick H.
                                Current MIFC Vice President

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