'93 Formula "Sleeper"

[hoogiesngrinderz]

you shouldn't have any problems going one at a time and torquing it back down.

[93formulalt1]

I wouldnt reuse any gaskets but that is just me...

It should be fine, I removed the bolts one at a time, applied the assembly lube and thread sealer, then reinstalled, in sequence. Head shouldn't have moved at all, the seal should be fine. If its not, i will probably sell the effing car, this project has just been the bane of my existence for the last 6 days, and it's nowhere near complete yet. I'll put a few hours work into finishing reassembly tomorrow, and maybe I'll get lucky and have it running before I have to go to work. Wishful thinking. . .

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Assembly lube and thread sealer???

[meissen]

Why assembly lube?

As long as the engine wasn't heated/fired up the head gaskets should be fine.

[Boost Addict]

I've re-sealed head studs one at a time on an engine with 500 miles. You'll be fine. Not quite sure what you mean about assembly lube unless you put some under the cap of the bolt for a more accurate torque reading.

[93formulalt1]

I've re-sealed head studs one at a time on an engine with 500 miles. You'll be fine. Not quite sure what you mean about assembly lube unless you put some under the cap of the bolt for a more accurate torque reading.

That's exactly what I did.

[93formulalt1]

Head bolts are all sealed and torqued to the correct specs/sequence. Intake should be fine without thread sealer, and if not, that's easy enough to pull and reinstall, so I'm not worried about it. Lost the bolts to the accessory bracket, can't remember what they looked like, so I'll be tackling that tomorrow. Installing the new O2's tomorrow, reinstalling the headers, bolting up the ps pump and AC compressor, installing spark plugs, wiring up the fuel system, new dipstick tube, replacing the alternator and idler pulley, and hopeing to hear it run tomorrow afternoon or Sunday morning when I get off work.

I still can't quite figure out how to set preload on the rockers, is there anyone here that could maybe spare a few minutes on the phone to walk me through it? The only time I did this before was on my buddys dads old Chrysler, and the process was quite a bit different. Pm me if you are able to walk me through it, and I'll respond with my cell phone number.

[TylerT/AZ28]

if its anything like a sbc i just learned how to do this and did rather well. i can try to help if you want to give me a call or i can PM it to you. its pretty straight forward

[93formulalt1]

if its anything like a sbc i just learned how to do this and did rather well. i can try to help if you want to give me a call or i can PM it to you. its pretty straight forward

Send me your number in a PM. I'm probably going to set preload to zero lash +1/4 turn, and fine-tune them with the car running, but if there's a more precise method of doing this, I'd like to know. I wasn't sure if the setup I have would tolerate +1/4 turn, I've heard of people going as far as 1/2 turn or more, and as little as 1/8 turn. . . I just want to make sure I do this right.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

I've used this route before and it works pretty well (on stock cams) for getting it close when the engine is in the car.

Adjust the #1 exhaust valve

Adjust the #1 intake valve

Adjust the #3 exhaust valve

Adjust the #5 intake valve

Adjust the #7 intake valve

Adjust the #2 intake valve

Adjust the #4 exhaust valve

Adjust the #8 exhaust valve

Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would be firing! It's where #6 would fire.

Adjust the #3 intake valve

Adjust the #5 exhaust valve

Adjust the #7 exhaust valve

Adjust the #2 exhaust valve

Adjust the #4 intake valve

Adjust the #6 exhaust valve

Adjust the #6 intake valve

Adjust the #8 intake valve

[TylerT/AZ28]

yes do that, and then you can zero lash when the car is running ill PM you though

[93formulalt1]

Progress still slow. . . My motivation is fading fast. Today, I got the PS pump, AC compressor, and accessory bracket bolted back up. Also found the new oil dipstick tube I didn't know I had, and installed the passenger side header. I'll rewire the drivers side O2 in the afternoon tomorrow, and install the drivers side header. After that, I'll set preload on the rockers, install the spark plugs, put the serp belt back on, hook everything back up to the intake, install the alternator, and fire it up.

Once it's running, I can fine tune the rockers, install the valve covers, and take it for a ride. . .

It WILL be done tomorrow, no way around it. I will work through the night if I have to, but I'm going to bring the car home before work on Monday.

[93formulalt1]

Car was fully reassembled today, but now is having a no-spark issue, and I have no idea what the cause of it is. I've been up for nearly 48 hours without sleep, so I'm going to get some sleep and give it a fresh look tomorrow.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

ICM, coil, or coil to opti wire could be bad. Or a connector was overlooked because of your sleep deprived state See if you're getting 12v to the coil

[93formulalt1]

ICM, coil, or coil to opti wire could be bad. Or a connector was overlooked because of your sleep deprived state See if you're getting 12v to the coil

ICM was broken due to misinstallation by a friend that was helping me out, so I installed the spare I had laying in the garage, but no change. I found about 4 wire connections under the hood that I couldn't find mates for, so I'm hoping to get some sleep and spot the connection points tomorrow. Going to take the day off work tomorrow and hope for the best. I'll be taking my diagnostic scanner over there in a little while to see if tht gives us any hints, but the car will not be worked on further tonight. I'm simply too exhausted.