'93 Formula "Sleeper"

[93formulalt1]

Not much set in stone right now, hoping to be around 350-400hp at the wheels. I'm thinking a stock rebuild on the bottom end, .030" overbore, mild/moderate cam (something similar to the LT4 HotCam but a little more aggressive), P/P heads, ported intake, upgrade fuel injectors and fuel pump. Replace accessories and wear items (timing set, optispark, water pump, PS pump, alt, A/C comp, etc.). Blueprinted/balanced bottom end, all new bearings, check clearances, deck and head machining to ensure absolutely flat, no flaws, etc., replace freeze plugs, new oil pan, pump, pickup, etc.

Basically replace everything, make it a brand new engine with a bit more power than stock. Also working a deal to replace the high-mileage transmission with something a little more. . . "deliberate". . . Should have trans this week, engine parts ordered this week (some of them, anyways), and the engine/trans that are in the car will be removed this week.


Overall, the goal is for 350-400hp of streetable, reliable power that won't break the bank. Not in a financial situation right now to buy a crate motor or anything, but dumping money a little at a time is a little easier to handle. The engine will be mounted to a stand and built over the winter, and I will likely have several friends helping me so I don't screw this up. Trans is good to go, but I will need to upgrade the rear end at some point along the line to handle the additional stress, and I'll want gears to make things more fun.

While the engine is out, I'll do some work on the engine bay to repair rust and clean things up. Car will be kept in a garage for the winter, engine/trans will be installed in the spring (assuming funds allow rebuild to be finished by then)

[Fox Slaughter]

Look at Joels build. 373rwhp M6. All he has done is obviously intake, headers, exhaust, electric water pump, AI 226/234 cam, (You can but the complete cam swap kit from AI for like 1300) and very light minimal work on the heads.

Just having the heads worked on and a cam swap you could easy hit over 400rwhp.

Thats easy and reliable to get.

[CJOFORM]

The ones I have aren't full rollers either, they are roller tip rockers, so I may upgrade anyway.

I would sell them and upgrade. Roller tip provide some benefit but the real benefit is in the trunion of a true roller rocker.


Also from personal experience with many engine builds. Don't order anything until you have it built on paper and you have researched, researched, and researched some more. Also do not have any machine work done until you are absolutely positive on what you want to do. When you are sure that what you built on paper is what you want then pull the trigger with the credit card.

[93formulalt1]

I would sell them and upgrade. Roller tip provide some benefit but the real benefit is in the trunion of a true roller rocker.


Also from personal experience with many engine builds. Don't order anything until you have it built on paper and you have researched, researched, and researched some more. Also do not have any machine work done until you are absolutely positive on what you want to do. When you are sure that what you built on paper is what you want then pull the trigger with the credit card.

That's the plan. I have a couple friends helping out with the planning stages, once I have it all mapped out, I'll start spending the coin.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Info:

These heads were done for a Stock Eliminator motor I was building

Howards 98215 springs
Comp 750-16 1.250” Steel Retainers
Crower 86110X2-16 10degree locks
Comp 4753 1.250” shim kit
ARP 134-7103 7/16th stud kit

Total parts = 315 dollars

Head Flow per Jerry Arnold Cylinder Heads Kalamazoo
Heads Milled to 52.5cc
Intake
.100 70
.200 135
.300 186
.400 224
.500 229
.600 231

Exhaust
.100 54
.200 113
.300 140
.400 152
.500 158
.600 159

Cost of Valve job and flow test = 400
Cost of Cores = 200

Total cost = 915 dollars.

I won’t let these go for less than the 400 I quoted you on here FB

[93formulalt1]

Any idea what size the intake ports are? Exhaust ports? The flow numbers aren't quite as good as the LE2 heads I'm looking into, but I'd consider these if I could reach my power goals with a mild cam. . .

[phoenix_rising]

Heyp sounds like a plan. Give me a call tomorrow. I would Like to help

[93formulalt1]

I really hate to be negative, but I think I may be abandoning this project. . . I have received an offer on the car in its current condition, and I don't think I can pass it up. I've been looking at prices for cars with lower miles, newer model years (easier to find dyno tuning facilities), with comparable mods, and I can't rationalize dumping several thousand into this car when I can buy one that's already got all the options I want for half the cost of the engine rebuilt and transmission. . .

I'm going to start talking to the friend who made the offer on the car, and maybe I can figure out a way to get into another Firebird soon. Even considering saving up to get an LS1 WS6, but I don't think that's going to be in the cards for a while.

More updates to come.

[birdie2000]

On one hand, you'll know everything about this car and this engine once it's rebuilt. On the other hand, I know totally where you're coming from and I've done it before. Unfortunately in my case I realized it after I had already sunk some money into the car, but even then I came out ahead of the game in multiple aspects by starting with something better than by trying to polish a turd. Aside from the money you'll save, you'll save a lot of stress by buying something you don't have to do as much (or any) work to.

[CJOFORM]

I really hate to be negative, but I think I may be abandoning this project. . . I have received an offer on the car in its current condition, and I don't think I can pass it up. I've been looking at prices for cars with lower miles, newer model years (easier to find dyno tuning facilities), with comparable mods, and I can't rationalize dumping several thousand into this car when I can buy one that's already got all the options I want for half the cost of the engine rebuilt and transmission. . .

I'm going to start talking to the friend who made the offer on the car, and maybe I can figure out a way to get into another Firebird soon. Even considering saving up to get an LS1 WS6, but I don't think that's going to be in the cards for a while.

More updates to come.

It is the right choice. And honestly at this point I would take what you can get for it and get out of the whole mess. Like ya said buy something in much better condition and with some of what you want done already. When ya want to break out the credit card and start modding im a phone call away. BTW I almost wrote a guy tonight about trading my formula for a 3rd gen Ill send ya the link. Damn nice car.

[93formulalt1]

On one hand, you'll know everything about this car and this engine once it's rebuilt. On the other hand, I know totally where you're coming from and I've done it before. Unfortunately in my case I realized it after I had already sunk some money into the car, but even then I came out ahead of the game in multiple aspects by starting with something better than by trying to polish a turd. Aside from the money you'll save, you'll save a lot of stress by buying something you don't have to do as much (or any) work to.

I have missed t-tops since I got rid of my '94. I had another '94 Z28 6-speed, and I really wish I would have sunk the money into that rather than turning around and making a quick profit on it.

I'm going to get an LT1/T56 car, t-tops or convertible, T/A or Formula, 94 or newer, preferably in a color other than red. I've found several, one that really caught my eye was grey w/ C6 5-spokes, but it had over 150k miles, needs a clutch, and was "hesitating", which could be easy or a can of worms.

I think my budget is going to be right around $3k-$4k for an LT1 car, I may spend more if I find an exceptional car that's worth the extra, or for the step up to an LS1 car. I'm doing my research, I'll find the best deal I can afford, and I'll be bringing home a car once I say goodbye to the Formula and sell a few parts I've got laying around. This will get me back on the road more quickly, save me the headache of trying to make my car what I want rather than just buying one that's close to what I've wanted, and I'll be that much closer to having the machine I hoped to turn the Formula into.

I will not settle this time, I will get the options I want, and I will not waste my time with anything else. Updates will be posted when I start the search for a replacement for the 'bird. It will definitely be another Firebird though, I can't switch to a Camaro now, my MIFC friends would have a field day with that. . .

[TylerT/AZ28]

i dont think your being negative, you have a positive stride and really have a plan for what you want. i say go for it even though the car has memories, sometimes the memories are just overrun with the function of something and its time to pass it on to someone who will make their own memories and such

[93formulalt1]

So far, the "Buy Nick a new(er) Firebird" Fund is up to about $1,500. By the time I finish selling extra parts, guns, and other failed projects, I should have around $4k to play with. I'm also putting away some cash out of my paychecks to supplement this. If I save up for a while, I think I'll be able to snag a decent deal on a clean LT1 car. I may wait until winter when all the best deals are out there, but I'm hoping to be back behind the wheel before the MIFC Cruise on Sept. 30th. I'm not holding my breath at all, but it would be pretty nice to be able to pull that off.

ETA: I think I may have inadvertently found my next car. . . I will know more this week, but assuming I'm able to come up with the cash, it may be coming home with me in the next couple of days. I found a sweet deal, it's not much newer than the one I have, nor is it much lower mileage, but it's clean, runs and drives, and has all the options I want. Not to mention the price, if I get it for what we have agreed upon, I can keep my Formula long enough to swap the aftermarket goodies over and get the new one fixed with parts from the old one, then part out the old one to buy more mods. . .

I'm starting to get excited, although I am not committing to anything, and I'm restricting my spending, so if I can't get a smoking deal on it, I'm going to walk away.

[Formul8d]

If you wait for the right deal you could find a LS1/A4. But if you're dead set on a T56 you'll be in the Lt1 budget.

Sent from my Pantech Breakout using Tapatalk

[93formulalt1]

If you wait for the right deal you could find a LS1/A4. But if you're dead set on a T56 you'll be in the Lt1 budget.

Sent from my Pantech Breakout using Tapatalk

Yeah, I'm also considering the fact that all the aftermarket parts I have will bolt up to the LT1, so I won't be stuck buying bolt-ons again. Longtube headers, ORY, cat-back, CAI, valvesprings, rockers, intake, suspension, rear end (I have a 2-channel locker), etc., I won't have to worry about parts compatibility. Not to mention, the price I'd be getting the one mentioned above for, I could hold onto the '93 to take the parts I need for the new car off of it, then part it out to make money for other repairs/mods. It's a sweet deal, and while it may be a high mileage LT1, it's got fewer miles than my car, runs and drives great, and has a LOT less issues than my '93 has. And it's less than I paid for the bolt-ons and rims for my '93. You can't beat that.