Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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Problem solved! Lol. I guess I'll get the tool ordered after I finish the top end. I've been looking for parts to repair my doors, replacement fenders, headliner, and patch panels to replace the rusted areas with fresh metal, and I'm having mixed results. I'm going to take it to the shop for rust repair.
Anyone know where I can find those metal/rubber window "guides" for the doors? Mine are rotted out, and the window rattles like crazy when it's down. I need those and some new hinges to get the doors back to 100%. Fenders are cracked, I'll just replace them before I repaint the car.
Intake is off, heads are going to be swapped tomorrow afternoon. Going to do a coolant flush and oil change tomorrow, probably replace trans filter and pan gasket, then replace the trans fluid next week. Tires will be coming as soon as I can afford them also, I got screwed on. Deal with a friend of mine, so I'm in the market for at least 2 more 16" tires.
Progress is slower than I anticipated. . . Got the drivers side header and head removed after Sic96 (Justin) showed up with the angle grinder so we could cut the headers off of the ORY. Cylinder walls are smooth and free of any signs of damage, pistons look good, just a bit on the dirty side (170k miles will do that), and everything came apart relatively smoothly today (lots of swearing and a cut on my left index finger from the machined edge of the drivers side cylinder head from a slip when I was removing it).
Im hoping tomorrow goes more smoothly, I just need to finish pulling apart the passenger side, get my hands on a valvespring compressor to swap the springs, then pull and replace the lifters. Once the passenger side head is off, everything should go relatively easily, at least until it's time to put the headers back in. . . Lol. Broke the wire for the left upstream O2 sensor when I pulled the header, that's gonna be a fun fix. Also broke the mounting tab off the oil dipstick, so I need to get a new one. first broken part was the clip that attaches the throttle cable to the TB, so I need to figure out a way to get it attached without having to replace the whole cable. . .
Still considering putting the newer intake on the car when it all goes back together, but I'm unsure as to whether or not it is interchangeable with the 93 engine due to the fuel rail crossover location.
Project is now at a standstill. Boss decided she didn't have to cut me a paycheck, so I'm broker than a joke right now. I still need to find a frickin' valve spring compressor, swap the springs, and figure out how I'm going to get this thing finished. I really don't want to have to do this twice because I can't afford to do it right the first time. . .
Project is now at a standstill. Boss decided she didn't have to cut me a paycheck, so I'm broker than a joke right now. I still need to find a frickin' valve spring compressor, swap the springs, and figure out how I'm going to get this thing finished. I really don't want to have to do this twice because I can't afford to do it right the first time. . .
Its been one of those days.
If need be I can ship you my valve spring compressor. Shipping back and forth would be about the same as buying one though
Throw it on the flat part of your TQ arm mount(Axle side) and adjust the TQ arm until the needle reads 2 degrees down or -2. Do this with the vehicle on level ground
Throw it on the flat part of your TQ arm mount(Axle side) and adjust the TQ arm until the needle reads 2 degrees down or -2. Do this with the vehicle on level ground
Actually it's the relationship between the rear and the driveshaft, not the ground.
If the rear is pointing down two degrees , and the driveshaft is pointing up two degrees, your total "pinion" angle is -4 degrees.
Hence the quotation marks around pinion. Just putting the pinion at -2* might work great for a hard run down the track on 'the fastest stock suspension F-body in the world' but it's very unlikely going to have the greatest street manners with a stock(ish) LT1.
Hence the quotation marks around pinion. Just putting the pinion at -2* might work great for a hard run down the track on 'the fastest stock suspension F-body in the world' but it's very unlikely going to have the greatest street manners with a stock(ish) LT1.
I've set it at -2 to the ground on a stock suspension LS1 street car with no vibrations or bad "street manners".
But no need to argue. Everyone uses a different method. Just use whatever your comfortable with.
Not trying to start a pissing match, just thinking it's excessive for a pretty tame setup like Nick's.
Nick, many factors go into finding the right angle for your vehicle. Ride height, LCA angle, instant center, etc etc. I kept mine at -2* total that UMI suggested
Was able to get my hands on a valve spring compressor thanks to the guys at Advance Auto in Adrian (thanks Ben!), replaced the springs, retainers, and valve stem seals with the new ones I ordered from Summit Racing. Took me a grand total of half hour to do both heads.
Getting the stock heads off the car, however, was not so easy. It took us the better part of the day to get the passenger side header un-****ed, and after it was removed, the head took maybe another 45 minutes to remove. Had to remove the power steering pump to get at the bolt through the accessory bracket into the head.
Started removing the A/C Compressor also, I have a new (used) replacement from Justin (sic96) that I'm hoping still works. Unbolted the front three bolts, didn't realize there were two more at the back of the compressor. . .
Im in a foul mood, this was supposed to be done in a day or two, we are already done with 3 days of working on this thing, and it's just now disassembled to the point that we can start thinking about putting things back together, but there's still lots of clean up to do before that point is reached.
The pistons all look good, just blackened from years of carbon buildup. The bores are smooth, which is a good sign. The new lifters are soaking in oil right now, I'm going to let them soak overnight. I wanted to use break-in oil, but the local stores were out of it, so I had to go with conventional engine oil. Should work fine, not the ideal solution, but it will work.
New gaskets are ready to go, I just need to hit the intake valley with the shop vac to get all the crud out that fell in during intake removal, probably use some kind of engine cleaner or something to clean it out completely before reassembling everything. I'm hoping it will only take another day of work to finish it up, but I know that's just wishful thinking.
I have been thinking about whether or not I want to repair the broken A/C in my Formula or not. . . It worked pretty well a few years ago when I last had the car on the road, but the compressor went out right before it was parked in September 2010. I have a used A/C compressor that I could install, and I also have an A/C delete pulley. I'm contemplating whether I should dump a bunch of time into attempting to fix the A/C or just remove all of it for the weight savings. I have aftermarket gauges blocking 3 of the 5 A/C vents in the car, but would consider relocating them to the a-pillar if I could get it working again.
The car is only driven in summer, some miles in the spring and fall, and it's going to be used mostly for driving around town, to shows, and maybe to/from work once every couple of weeks in the summer. I'm just trying to look at the benefits of keeping the A/C versus removing it. I don't know what kind of power increase removing it wold give me, nor do I know if the compressor is the only thing that's wrong with it.
removing won't produce any more power. You will gain some much needed space in the engine compartment though, I say keep it because you have a hardtop and I'm sure you drive it frequently.
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