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  • #76
    Originally posted by OneMeanFormula View Post
    Agreed!! Plus all the internal engine stuff is over my head. I've only done external engine mods. Bolt ons, turboes, superchargers. Still soaking all the information in about internal engine modifications.

    Sent from my Pantech Breakout using Tapatalk
    Trust me, it's all over my head as well. I have been doing lots of Internet research to figure out what needs to be done to do this right. Valve springs are being replaced because the stockers are at 170k miles, so they are undoubtedly tired, and the stockers would be too close to coil bind with the 1.6RRs, so it's for extra peace of mind as well. I just want to make enough of a difference in efficiency and power output to make the time and money spent worthwhile. Lol
    Nick H.
    Current MIFC Vice President

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    • #77
      Just make sure you get the springs installed at the correct height and proper seat pressure, two very important details. Push rod length is determined by seeing where the roller tip contacts the top of the valve

      Your locks will likely work, assuming they are the stock 7* and aren't fused to the retainer (unlikely, but does happen).

      Also, don't worry about the .65mm difference in bolt patterns. Many have run 120mm on 4.75 and vise versa without problems.

      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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      • #78
        Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
        Just make sure you get the springs installed at the correct height and proper seat pressure, two very important details. Push rod length is determined by seeing where the roller tip contacts the top of the valve

        Your locks will likely work, assuming they are the stock 7* and aren't fused to the retainer (unlikely, but does happen).

        Also, don't worry about the .65mm difference in bolt patterns. Many have run 120mm on 4.75 and vise versa without problems.
        I have no idea how to set seat pressure and spring height, but my buddy Google knows all about that stuff. Lol

        I have new locks coming, they were only $20, but they are back ordered until the 22nd. I'm going to start working on the heads next Monday, and I'll take a day off work to get them swapped out when they are ready to install. I'll make sure the springs are installed correctly, I hate doing things twice, I prefer doing it right the first time. That's why I'm close to $1,200 into swapping in a set of stock heads with 1.6RRs. Lol

        Do I need shims to run the LT4 springs? I've read that I'll need we pushrods too, but I don't have a pushrod length checker, so I'll have to get that ordered soon too...
        Nick H.
        Current MIFC Vice President

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        • #79
          Special tools are needed to accurately measure installed height and seat pressure, installed height being more important of the two.

          http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Valv...pringTech.aspx

          Push rod length is determined by getting the valvetrain geometry correct. Are you using SA or NSA 1.6 rockers?

          1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
          1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
          1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

          2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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          • #80
            Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
            Special tools are needed to accurately measure installed height and seat pressure, installed height being more important of the two.

            http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Valv...pringTech.aspx

            Push rod length is determined by getting the valvetrain geometry correct. Are you using SA or NSA 1.6 rockers?
            SA. They are Comp Cams 1.6 roller rockers.
            Nick H.
            Current MIFC Vice President

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            • #81
              Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
              Special tools are needed to accurately measure installed height and seat pressure, installed height being more important of the two.

              http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Valv...pringTech.aspx

              Push rod length is determined by getting the valvetrain geometry correct. Are you using SA or NSA 1.6 rockers?
              If the only things changing are springs and retainers, will the installed height change at all? I don't have a height micrometer, but I may be able to borrow one from a friend. Do you know what the recommended installed valve spring height is for a stock LT1 cam?
              Nick H.
              Current MIFC Vice President

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              • #82
                Did you use a angle finder to set pinion angle? There shouldn't be any vibrations with a long torque arm...


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                • #83
                  Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
                  Did you use a angle finder to set pinion angle? There shouldn't be any vibrations with a long torque arm...
                  I don't have an angle finder, although I most likely will be ordering one in the coming weeks.

                  Is pinion angle something that the shop that is going to do the 4 wheel alignment can tackle? They are better equipped than I am of adjust pinion angle, especially considering the best way to tackle it is on a front end rack. If I were to do it myself, it would be done in the driveway with the axle on jack stands. Lol
                  Last edited by 93formulalt1; August 10th, 2012, 03:05 PM.
                  Nick H.
                  Current MIFC Vice President

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                  • #84
                    From what I'm reading, with install height between 1.76" and 1.78", you can run up to .540-.550 total lift but would NOT recommend this! The springs do not have much seat pressure and are a tad low at open pressure, ~105 lbs @ 1.76/~101 lbs@ 1.78 and ~ 290 lbs at .550 lift. They would work OK with a stockish LT1 cam and 1.6RR's but I would stay under .510 or .520 total lift and under 6200 rpm to stay safe.

                    As a comparison, my Lunati springs are close to 130 lbs at installed height (1.80") and 300 lbs at .550" lift

                    1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                    1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                    1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                    2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
                      From what I'm reading, with install height between 1.76" and 1.78", you can run up to .540-.550 total lift but would NOT recommend this! The springs do not have much seat pressure and are a tad low at open pressure, ~105 lbs @ 1.76/~101 lbs@ 1.78 and ~ 290 lbs at .550 lift. They would work OK with a stockish LT1 cam and 1.6RR's but I would stay under .510 or .520 total lift and under 6200 rpm to stay safe.

                      As a comparison, my Lunati springs are close to 130 lbs at installed height (1.80") and 300 lbs at .550" lift
                      With the bottom end still bone stock, I wont come close to 6200rpm. I'm still running the stock cam, not planning a cam swap or bottom end rebuild this year, possibly next year, depending on my finances.

                      Lift on the stock cam should be .480"/.491" with 1.6 rockers, and seated spring pressure for the stock springs was 85 lbs. I think they are pretty worn out right now, considering they have 170k miles on them. . . Anything is better than what is in the car currently, and from what I've been told, the valvesprings alone are going to really wake the car up and make it feel a bit less "tired".

                      So I need to get hands on a height caliper and a set of shims. . .
                      Nick H.
                      Current MIFC Vice President

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                      • #86
                        I don't say this often, but you should be able to just pop the new springs in and use the new retainers and be very, very close. Even if you are a little tight or a little loose, it's not going to wipe out a lobe or allow a valve to get lazy. Do it right if you have the tools though!

                        I'd be more concerned with getting the roller to ride on the center of the valve stem.
                        http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...y/viewall.html

                        You won't need hardened push rods with SA rockers, just in case you didn't know.

                        1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                        1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                        1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                        2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
                          I don't say this often, but you should be able to just pop the new springs in and use the new retainers and be very, very close. Even if you are a little tight or a little loose, it's not going to wipe out a lobe or allow a valve to get lazy. Do it right if you have the tools though!

                          I'd be more concerned with getting the roller to ride on the center of the valve stem.
                          http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...y/viewall.html

                          You won't need hardened push rods with SA rockers, just in case you didn't know.
                          I figured hardened pushrods would just be cheap insurance. I'll probably use the stockers if I can get away with it, but if not, I'll order hardened ones the right length. I don't have any tools for this, I've never tackled anything like this before. Im not opposed to buying tools, but I need to make sure I'm getting the right tools for the job before I drop the money.

                          My budget just got cut in half, I no longer have a full time job, I'm working two part-time gigs, neither of which pay very well. I'll be getting the parts I have installed, swapping the heads, and seeing what else I need to do to get this thing to the point I want it.

                          Im also looking for a decent full time job and considering going back to school for IT, I might as well take advantage of the GI Bill while I'm still eligible. . .
                          Nick H.
                          Current MIFC Vice President

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                          • #88
                            You can set pinion angle right in your drive..
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                            U.S. Army 1983-2005
                            11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                            Originally posted by WMCCjames

                            "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

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                            • #89
                              Originally posted by OIF1VET View Post
                              You can set pinion angle right in your drive..
                              I know, but I'd have to order a pinion angle finder, and if I'm going to pay a shop to set up my new suspension already, my thought is they wouldn't charge too much to take care of that as well.

                              If that's not the case, I'll look at doing it myself. Best bet would be to call the shop and find out.
                              Nick H.
                              Current MIFC Vice President

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                              • #90
                                Originally posted by 93formulalt1 View Post
                                I know, but I'd have to order a pinion angle finder, and if I'm going to pay a shop to set up my new suspension already, my thought is they wouldn't charge too much to take care of that as well.

                                If that's not the case, I'll look at doing it myself. Best bet would be to call the shop and find out.
                                Angle finder = $10
                                sigpic
                                U.S. Army 1983-2005
                                11.20@122.37 1.51 60'

                                Originally posted by WMCCjames

                                "Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"

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