I bought my old 93 Z28 back, now it needs some TLC

[DETROITMUSCLE]

no you should not have to pull the pistons and rods at all, the rear main can be replaced without removing those I believe.

[JoeliusZ28]

no you should not have to pull the pistons and rods at all, the rear main can be replaced without removing those I believe.

thats what i thought too but cant say for sure... never had to do it.

And also can i suggest a TH400?

[mcalus]

are you going to fund it joel? lol

so i pop off trans and the main seal will say hello? lol

[my1994z28]

You can change the rear main seal without removing the pistons and rods,just remove the flex plate or flywheel.once that is removed the rear main seal will be exposed,take a flat head screw driver and pop the old seal out,clean up the surface and install the new seal.

[mcalus]

To remove the "crank pulley" which is the harmonic balancer there is a special remover set to get hub off. Oreilleys has them you pay for it then return it for full refund. Note the key position and pointer on hub so you put it back the same way. Power steering pulley is same deal takes special puller tool. Note: treat that pulley with kid gloves, the dealers discontinued it and junk yard that have them want 80.00 for just the pulley. You can remove the whole pump with the pulley on it.

They sell block off plates for egr on ebay like 20.00. not worth gerrie riggin it, you don't want air leaks there.

Do you know which cylinder was the bad spark plug? you want to really look that over when you pull heads, bad valve, bad valve spring, intake or exhaust leak, bad rings. I noticed in one of your pics you had a bad exhaust leak on #5 or #7 cylinder that could suck air and o2's will over compensate for it, that would cause plug to burn white instead of tan.

Actually it wasn't an exhaust leak, it was oil from either the main seal or the valve cover. It had leaked oil that saturated the gasket. The exhaust didn't have a leak.

As for the block off plates, thanks

[mcalus]

So this is pretty much where I am at... Haven't worked on it anymore cause I dont really know what I want with it.

I can either leave the engine out and do everything that I want to it, big cam, 3600 or 4k stall, built trans, alum drive shaft, lt's, td's etc, the whole shabang.

..or..

im pretty much to the point of getting the needed gaskets building the trans which is still $$$$.....
Built trans= around 800
Stall= 300ish
Gaskets=200-300?
LT's=200-300
TD's=300
New starter unless I can fix the nipple?? $60ish?
misc, plugs, wires, etc 150ish

Thats not including repalcing the opti, getting an electric water pump or just replacing a stock one, plus suspension which is around 1-1500k. and the 1k I have to put into the body.

ughhHHHHHH!HH!H!H!H!!!!!!!!!... im frustrated, plus my 99Z28 needs a rack and pinion plus new tires (for the 19's which are $$$) let alone a alignment and I have a alxe bearing or even pinion bearing going out in the rear, wait let me fix that, it has been out for over a year now. FML


Suggestions?

[MunsterZ28]

if i were you i would do what i want to do. lol i know sounds dumb but do it the right way the first time, your way the first time. even if it takes longer youll be so much happier. so if you want option 1 with the cam lt built trans go for it. dont skimp.


so what you want not what your wallet wants you got all winter if you think about it. couple months to get stuff together. your at break neck speed right now. slow down and think man youll get it

[DETROITMUSCLE]

IMO save cash and do this the right way. Which means adding some cost to what you have there, If your gonna stick with that trans and build it I would recommend a GOOD converter which should cost around $700-800+ There is no reason to put a cam in that car without a converter so as I have said before fix what needs to be done and spend the money on suspension and trans, then bolt-ons can all be done with the car fairly together.

[my1994z28]

You can get a built trans for 1,000.00 plus 425.00 for a converter,I judt dropped my buddies trans off and sunday to MIKE RIDINGS.Auto Zone carrys all the gaskets you will need,head gaskets are 20.00 each,intake gaskets are 15.00,oil pan gasket is 25.00,timing cover gaskets 10.00..much cheaper than buying a gasket kit.

[mcalus]

Being busy with school, work and family thanksgivings and what not, oh and being broke.

I finally got some time to work on it today. I pulled a bunch of parts off and apart and tons of random bolts I plan on powdercoating tonight. Which a lot of the bolts and pieces are probably not work the time but I would like to have a really clean engine bay with out all the corroded pieces.

I ran into I believe my first problem. I was looking at the engine for more parts I could take off to powdercoat and I noticed the splines that the splined shaft from the water pump go into are very rusty. Whats my best bet? Do/can I replace it? Will it be a difficult task? The shaft itself is fine but the other part isn't.





Here are some pics of pieces I plan on coating.


Obviously not the side facing


Still not sure what color I want to do these. I was thinking a charcoal color.




Some of the bolts that will be done (chrome)
-Water pump cover thingy bolts
-coolant neck bolts
-water pump bolts
-coil pack bolts
-a/c brackets and bolts
-tb cover bolts
-I'm sure I'm forgetting other things

Here is some random pics of the water pump and thermostat.






Also, when I took off the tb cover the rubber gasket thingy was very flimsy and like it was sucked in. covered in oil too. I don't think it will seal very well if I don't replace it. I should be able to get one of them from autozone shouldn't I?

Sorry camera phone pic

[bigjon88]

i cant wait to see them powder coated..

[98blackbeauty]

that piece you showed that was rusted, is that the water pump drive coupling? if so, your water pump rear seal must be bad, because there should be no water in that coupler and rust. Before you spend any money on powder coating the water pump and input neck keep in mind none of that is visable when the cold air intake is in place. I polished the input neck no cost. Just mentioning this to help save you some bucks.

[mcalus]

that piece you showed that was rusted, is that the water pump drive coupling? if so, your water pump rear seal must be bad, because there should be no water in that coupler and rust. Before you spend any money on powder coating the water pump and input neck keep in mind none of that is visable when the cold air intake is in place. I polished the input neck no cost. Just mentioning this to help save you some bucks.

If that is the exact name for it then sure, its where the shaft for the water pump goes into. Some of the seals did look HORRIBLE, but what do I have to do to fix this rusted part?

As for the powdercoating I do it all myself. No cost thanks for the heads up though.

[my1994z28]

I would buy a new water pump,Hastings or Autozone sells new ones for 100.00 with lifetime warranty.

[meissen]

that seal/gasket that's under the throttle body plate is normal - mine looked that way too and so did mcssmostwanted when we cracked his off a few days ago.