I bought my old 93 Z28 back, now it needs some TLC

[Gottork]

keep us informed Joel on the plastic stuff I am interested in knowing how it comes out

[mcalus]

Got out of work early so I got a real good start on it. (1:30pm)

Started working on the seats, I cant believe how much dust can just sit up in the seat brackets and tracks! UGH I'm stoked about this interior getting back together cause I will actually be able to breath in it!














My buddy Jason holding some of the wiring harness out of the way.




This needs to be CLEANED!




Dirty engine bay!





Working on getting it on the trailer.








Home safe and sound! I coudn't resist but to pull a valve cover off and see how gummed up it was, wasn't that bad.











The only 2 problems we ran into was my buddy accidentally pulled one of the wires out. (oil presser sensor correct?)




Also broke the little nipple off the starter solenoid.

Well??

[DETROITMUSCLE]

that is the oil level sensor I think and looks like a lot of buildup under that valvecover but I guess its to be expected with the mileage. That pic of the dirty torque arm, well don't even bother cleaning it that is a definate upgrade as far as suspension goes.

[meissen]

Yeah, like Jeff said that's the oil level sensor - pressure sensor is going to be above the oil filter on the side of the block.


Buy-it-Now Auction for ~$20 + S&H
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-97...#ht_1465wt_886

[Gottork]

man you make me jealous, I wish I had the drive you do right now..

gratz on everything

[mcalus]

that is the oil level sensor I think and looks like a lot of buildup under that valvecover but I guess its to be expected with the mileage. That pic of the dirty torque arm, well don't even bother cleaning it that is a definate upgrade as far as suspension goes.

GEEZ!?!?! Why are suspension parts SOOO EXPENSIVE?
Im torn between putting what on what, I have the LS1 that could use a aftermarket phb and a set of sfc. This car needs everything!

Yeah, like Jeff said that's the oil level sensor - pressure sensor is going to be above the oil filter on the side of the block.


Buy-it-Now Auction for ~$20 + S&H
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-97...#ht_1465wt_886

Thanks for the link B. Tell Larry thanks for the vise grip tip on the brake lines, worked like a champ!

man you make me jealous, I wish I had the drive you do right now..

gratz on everything

Thanks! Im trying to do as much as I can when I can so it gets done, im a lazy person.

[JoeliusZ28]

Yep thats the low oil sensor.... i broke mine too and havent replaced it yet. Christmas list!

[mcalus]

Another NEWBIE question...

So I have been reading some peoples sigs on ls1tech and here, do I actually HAVE to do different pushrods, springs, valves, etc? So if I go cam only technically it isn't "cam" only, correct?

Thanks

[meissen]

Unless you do a cam with basically the same specs as your stocker, you'll have higher lift and more aggressive lobes and thus need to upgrade the springs, pushrods, etc. So yes, it's not "cam only" it's "top end drivetrain only"

[DETROITMUSCLE]

cam only means no head work, valvetrain is a completly different thing and is ABSOLUTELY necessary for an aftermarket cam. Yes you do have to upgrade the springs, pushrods, and a new timing chain and oil pump are highly recommended.

[nascarnate326]

Unless you do a cam with basically the same specs as your stocker, you'll have higher lift and more aggressive lopes and thus need to upgrade the springs, pushrods, etc. So yes, it's not "cam only" it's "top end drivetrain only"

does that depend on the cam though? LTXTECH has a few people running around with stock everything but cam, cc306. I wondered about it too

[DETROITMUSCLE]

"upgrading" to any cam that can run effiecently on the stock valvetrain is stupid, why even swap out the cam to gain 5hp. The point of an aftermarket cam is to open the valves more ect. and this requires stiffer springs. Also the pushrods are specific length to your cam and valvetrain combo.

[JoeliusZ28]

does that depend on the cam though? LTXTECH has a few people running around with stock everything but cam, cc306. I wondered about it too

running anything beyond stock lift on stock springs is STUPID (in an LT1 where stock springs are weak)

Two reasons:

1) Stock springs cant handle much more than stock lift. Pushing them further is risking a spring breaking and taking the whole motor out with it.

2) Stock springs are barely strong enough to handle the ramp rates of the stock cam. If you increase your lift you increase your ramp rates, which requires more seat pressure to close the valve fast enough during high - rpm. If your valves arent closing fast enough (valve float) you will burn oil and lose performance. Many high mileage LT1s do this with stock everything. In extreme cases when the piston is outrunning the valve, the two can collide. A lack of valve clearance is usually the bigger reason for this if it happens. Jons old engine experienced collision when a couple of his dual springs broke and he didnt realize it. With two springs per valve it continued to operate, but the seat pressure with only one functioning was not high enough for 6800 RPM he was winding it too, and thus the piston was actually helping push the valve closed.

[meissen]

does that depend on the cam though? LTXTECH has a few people running around with stock everything but cam, cc306. I wondered about it too

Links? I don't think you're lying, just curious who it is on there. I'm a super admin on that site so I'm on there lurking quite a bit. And in response to them doing that - that's just downright stupid - even the LT4 hot cam which is considered one of the more mild LT1 cams can't handle stock springs. Hell, even a stock cam can't handle 1.6 roller rockers without upgraded springs. Joel's right on the money that the valvetrain is built right to spec and not much tolerance - start changing the specs but keeping the stock components and you've got a disaster ready to happen.

[JoeliusZ28]

i should also clarify - brian is right when he says the springs are designed to spec. A spring stronger than what you need only increases friction and reduces gas mileage, so the factory "weak" strength of the spring was surely intentional. These design requirements go out the window in most modified setups.