I bought my old 93 Z28 back, now it needs some TLC

[mcalus]

Worked on the engine a bit last night.

I got the manifolds of and the stock y pipe and cat. Do I need to make a block off plate for the back of the intake where the egr went in? Will a little bit of rtv and some sheet metal bolted in work?



Had to use a good old trusty pipe on the end of the ratchet. 0 bolts stripped nor broken, well except the ones that hook the y pipe to maniflods but that isn't really an issue.




I am going to assume these vac lines broke while we were taking it out, because wouldn't it give me a idle issue?





I pulled 2 or 3 plugs out to see what they look like, this was the worst of them all. Not sure, put pretty sure the previous owner before I originally had it put new plugs and wires on it and also a opti, do you think I should still replace the opti? It looks like crap but works great.



And last but not least, I traded my clears for some stockers, here is the before...




And... the after....Just needs a bit of wet sanding and wheeling and they should look pretty nice!






Didn't get any pictures but I also removed the A/C....

Buddy and I are going to work on it again tonight, what should I do next? Water pump and opti and wires? Intake? My dad made some pretty good chili that we are going to dig into when my buddy and I get over to my house so we might not have much time to work on it on account of having to "do work" .. if you know what I mean lol


Any suggestions?

BTW thanks Larry for the heads up on it being cheaper to buy stuff seperatly.

Thanks Mike for the stock parking lights and the prices on gaskets.

[Gottork]

can I come to your place and bring my car so you can help me??? Nice job..

[my1994z28]

No problem,I should have the cam kit ready by thursday the 12th.let me know if still interested..

[mcalus]

can I come to your place and bring my car so you can help me??? Nice job..

I think it should be the other way around. looks like you have tons of room in there! haha thanks!



Last night my buddy and I got lazy, we only got the waterpump off. Ill have pics later, my laptop is dead.

Looking to get the crank pully off and also the opti. Can I just use any pully puller? Its just the 3 bolts and then use the puller right?

I can leave all of the injectors on when I pull the intake right?

The darn oil leak is covering the starter so bad I cant even tell where there are bolts, does anyone have a pic or let me know what I have to take off to take the starter off?

Also, I think the trans may have been replaced, there is a sticker on it that says gm manufactured and now im drawing a blank on what else it said. I have a pic so ill post it up then.

[JoeliusZ28]

if one plug was considerably worse than the rest someone might have only changed 7 out of 8 plugs because they couldnt get to the last one.

[mcalus]

if one plug was considerably worse than the rest someone might have only changed 7 out of 8 plugs because they couldnt get to the last one.

True, but it was the front right, you would think thats the easiest. But Joel you will know before I will, I have yet to have to change any plugs or wires on my Fbody

[mcalus]

Ok so a couple of questions/statements.

I (think) am going to be able to just weld up the hole for the bracket thingy that held the air/egr tube in the back of the intake and use some rtv correct? Then just bolt it back on?

What is the best way of not getting fluids EVERYWHERE when I take the trans off and the oil pan off? Obviously drain the fluids first, but any other suggestions?

Any suggestions for a UDP? What does a under drive pulley even do? I noticed my ribs on mine had some scars like someone had a jack on it for a quick second then noticed it. Not sure, just has some marks. I have a pic but I don't have my camera with me... fail.

As for headers, I know people say to get coated or stainless but I am not planning on driving this in the rain, nor even a DD. But whats the point of coated when they rust eventually? Should I just get the painted ones and say heck with it? Anyone done that? I am pretty sure there isn't any header paint that will hold up to the temps unless I get some por 20 i think it is. Any suggestions?

As for my pulleys, I plan on powder coating them a chromish/silver color. I wont have to pull the bearings will I? How do I go about pulling the p.s pulley and the crank pulley? Just use a puller right? no tricks?

My boss said I have to move the car down a bay so last night my buddy and I unbolted the engine from the cradle. WOW them bolts are a pain to get to. The pass side was easy as can be, we just took out the main one going through the mount and the driver side we took the 3 out that bolt to the cradle. I plan on going with poly motor and trans mounts. Unless suggested otherwise.

Is there any type of gasket in the TB? How do I go about powder coating that? Is there anywhere I can go and get seals for the cailpers? I am going to put new seals in when I pull the piston out to powder coat them.


I'm sure I am forgetting something.


Thanks!

[my1994z28]

I am sure you can by a rebuild kit for the calipers,they would include all new slides and bolts and seals.

[MP81]

What is the best way of not getting fluids EVERYWHERE when I take the trans off and the oil pan off? Obviously drain the fluids first, but any other suggestions?

Throw a tarp down.

[78mali350]

when it comes to taking a trans pan off take out all the bolts but like two on the front of the car that way the pan will tip and you can get a good amount out that way and when you think you can handle the whole tray take the other bolts out

[JoeliusZ28]

underdrive pulleys - dont recommend them, it puts more strain on other parts like your alt.

headers - yes ceramic will rust through eventually but ceramic coating lasts a TON longer than any kind of paint will on a car that never sees the elements. The only places my headers are trying to rust after 5 years is where water has hit them and the header was at temperature.

[98blackbeauty]

To remove the "crank pulley" which is the harmonic balancer there is a special remover set to get hub off. Oreilleys has them you pay for it then return it for full refund. Note the key position and pointer on hub so you put it back the same way. Power steering pulley is same deal takes special puller tool. Note: treat that pulley with kid gloves, the dealers discontinued it and junk yard that have them want 80.00 for just the pulley. You can remove the whole pump with the pulley on it.

They sell block off plates for egr on ebay like 20.00. not worth gerrie riggin it, you don't want air leaks there.

Do you know which cylinder was the bad spark plug? you want to really look that over when you pull heads, bad valve, bad valve spring, intake or exhaust leak, bad rings. I noticed in one of your pics you had a bad exhaust leak on #5 or #7 cylinder that could suck air and o2's will over compensate for it, that would cause plug to burn white instead of tan.

[c0ncEpT]

If your strapped for cash I would cut corners trying to make a cam work. Just buy some LT's, a good free flowing intake setup, and a converter with sme drag radials. That set up will susprise a lot of people and be a very fun and reliable car to drive.

[mcalus]

Got some pics up. Some of these gaskets are DESTROYED!


Here is the damage to the pulley, seem ok?



Water pump off-








I still can't get over the amount of oil and dirt build up.



Does this mean it has been replaced?




Still debating on doing what concept and detroit muscle have said on just doing small things that are needed and make it a reliable track car.

hmmm

[mcalus]

have a question about the main seal. since i have a horrible leak between my block and trans i am going to have to pull the cam and rods and pistons arent i? still unsure what i want to do with the motor, obviously if i do a cam swap this wont be an issue.