hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

[Superman09]

Yes either that or you can buy a threaded sensor and have a bung welded to the charge pipe.

Either or, but no issues running the stock grommet style. It will hold under boost no problem!

[1999Black_Z28]

I prefer the threaded IAT from a tuning standpoint. The threaded sensor has been proven to be more accurate and adjusts to temperature changes quicker.

You can go to Advance/Autozone/etc and ask for a Intake Temp Sensor for a 1991 GMC Cyclone.

I believe these are the following part numbers but you should double check anyways:
GM: 25036751
Advance: WT382P (this is the one I bought for $15 and I confirmed this is the correct p/n)
Autozone: SU107

[Formula Z]

besides cost, how much of a difference will it make choosing a specific cam like a TU1 or tick stage 1 boost cam over a zr1 cam? how much will the stock 5.3 heads affect spool time/power over some 317s or 243s? which of these questions will affect my goal of 600-650 rwhp with running under 15psi. basically i need to stay under 15#s of boost and want to reach my goal. my 98 pcm will only run up to 15#s i understand. ive been trying to do research so i can understand this stuff, but there is so much info out there. wastegate controls the boost right? jonny your wg comes with a 12# spring so are there other springs available or do i have to get into a e-boost controller to go higher? i do want an eboost controller sooner or later

[1999Black_Z28]

I would run the stock heads and buy the cam from tick or speed with the money you save. The 317's will really lower your compression on that 5.3 and unless you are running a ton of boost there's no reason to. Not sure on the final compression with the 243's but I think your money is better spent elsewhere IMO

[Formula Z]

Re: hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

Wasnt planning on running other heads just wanted to know why. i just want to know how to make the most "reliable" hp without running over 15 lbs of boost or too much timing and still be 600whp

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[1BADAIR]

probably be cheaper getting an aftermarket cam unless you have the cover, harness, and cam gear from your ls2

[Nocooler]

Are you set against getting the LS6 Z06 cam? I know you want some thump - but for the $$ it's a great cam.

[Formula Z]

Re: hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

You would do the z06 cam before the zr1??

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[Nocooler]

Yes - the LS6 Z06 cam is a direct fit in your engine. The LS9 ZR1 cam require a bunch of changes, like Larry said.

[Formula Z]

Re: hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

Yeah all that went with the ls2. ive had my mind set on a tu1 or tick and i guess that just put it in stone

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[Speedfreak391]

Mike,
I bought the ls9 cam, ls2 cover, sensor and harness new for less than most cams cost. Go to langenfelter's website, the have the kit for the front cover and all the part #'s listed that you will need to order if one might want to shop around for cheaper pricing. Get the part #'s and check out gm parts direct. I think you will be happy with their pricing.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Its totally your choice but I would personally not want a cam that "works fine" in reality I don't see that cam working great for any turbo build when you can spend a couple hundred more on a custom spec'd turbo grind. You already need better valvesprings because the LS9 springs will float the valves under a decent amount of boost.

[Superman09]

Get the Tick grind! No sense in spending money and installing something as Jeff stated will work "okay" when you can do it right the first time!

[Formula Z]

Re: hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

What kind of deal can you get me jonny on a tick cam? seems they are $400 my cost

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[kammi10]

mike dont even mess around with a cam that is just an off the shelf cam. even if it saves you a little money you will be much happier with the results from the custom one