Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us!
Yeah. Mine needed that last little bit of "oomph" because it was having the same issue of difficult shifting at WOT on occasion. It was suggested to me to make my stock master adjustable, but after some reading I read that the system is designed to have that plastic cup on there. Put it in and my shifting problems were gone. That miniscule amount of extra travel was just enough to make a difference.
The thing is i can normally shift pressing the pedal maybe a third of the way. I was deliberately stabbing it to the floor and still having some trouble with it. Just wish it shifted like it used to with my old spec, instantly and effortlessly.
The thing is i can normally shift pressing the pedal maybe a third of the way. I was deliberately stabbing it to the floor and still having some trouble with it. Just wish it shifted like it used to with my old spec, instantly and effortlessly.
That sounds exactly like hydraulics. At WOT when you smack the clutch is when it's going to have the hardest time overcoming the pressure plate do to centrifugal force.
Thats true but I still dont think its hydraulics because it can be at a standstill at idle where i just go 1-2-1-2-1-2 and never release te clutch pedal at all and it will still be notchy. Also 2nd gear is the only one blocking me out so far.
Rear Axle: plan is to go with a Dana 60 for sure, but i am going to get at least one more season out of the 10 bolt provided it doesn't break.
Clutch: i plan on changing the clutch when do the rear axle. The competition clutch is an excellent clutch but i cant get it out of my head how much i enjoyed the fast shifts of my old spec 6-puck.
Tune: i recently picked up a dell netbook and once i get it set up i am going to start tweaking my tune. there are a couple things i want to change related to vacuum. Currently the car has a vacuum leak that i am unable to fix without adjusting the tune because the car will idle too low and stall, and it will also cause a rich condition (it already idles rich). I wasnt aware of the vacuum leak when i first tuned the car, but i now realize this is why my idle was so easy to to tune. I also want to make some changes to the operation of the IAC valve. The factory configuration opens the IAC valve when the car is moving anything above something like 3mph, making it idle around 1100. This is for drivability to allow smooth/casual shifts. I want to get rid of this for a few reasons: One, it will be more optimal for fast shifts since rpms will decrease faster. Two, it will engine brake harder which is useful (like an ebrake) for setting the car up into a corner. If i dont want the strong engine braking i can use the clutch or heel-toe the gas. And finally the third reason is because a full vacuum engine-brake sounds totally bad ass through duals. Right now my car only does it when the engine is cold. it will also be nice to have engine that idles without bringing the car to a stop. More choppity chop with the cam
Step one will be a clean format and reinstall of windows on the laptop. I'm also going to install a vacuum gauge when i fix the leak (connect it directly to the open vacuum port)
Lastly, my brake light is on the dash full time (ebrake light). Need to get that fixed ... Seems like i just finished fixing 3 other idiot lights on the dash
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; May 8th, 2015, 09:08 AM.
I absolutely love how fast the revs fall with the BMW. Makes it waaaay easier to drive at an autocross as you can just lift a bit instead of dancing with the brake pedal, even for fairly large adjustments in speed.
Yep exactly the idea. My thinking here more or less spawned from driving my dads nova, which doesnt have an IAC to meddle with things. Letting off the gas with a carb = full vacuum and its a blast to drive that way.
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