Originally posted by Gregs_gsxr
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Really? I have never heard this before, and I believe I have seen/worked on cars with the bleeders on the bottom. I will take your word and your not the only one who have said this, but still shocking to me. Disappointing too because of how nice I made the calipers look, hopefully I can get the lettering off and re do it to keep the look I like. -
even with the caliper working properly, and your bleeder screw is on the bottom, you wont do yourself any good. With the bleeder on the bottom there is air stuck at the top of the caliper...giving you a light pedal and no stopping powerLeave a comment:
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For some reason I have never heard the caliper/bleeder thing before, and I am almost positive I have them on the same sides they came off on... Anyhow I went to swap them last night and I found a huge issue with the caliper, the seal was blown out... so that would cause a lot of the issue that I have. I am going to rebuild the caliper again (or ask Jon too [MENTION=2135]bigjon88[/MENTION]) and then put them back together the way I had them simply because of the look of my calipers. If I still don't have brakes I will swap calipers on each side.Leave a comment:
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X2Originally posted by Gregs_gsxr View Post
I still have a somewhat mushy pedal with my LS1 and LT1/C4 rear setup. Almost a gallon of DOT3 with speed bleaders/vacuum pump/manual bleeding hasn't firmed the pedal like it should be. It's much better now (the proportioning valve was stuck before) but still searching for answers. Pedal was hard with the prior setup.Leave a comment:
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Flip the calipers to the other side, bleeder screws need and must be on top so the fluid pushes out the air, since air risesLeave a comment:
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I am doing a ton of reading, I think I might be able to know a thing or two about carbs when I am done. I am hoping to get it driving to take it to a shop, it idles fine and responds great at low RPM's...Originally posted by Lucky SOB View PostI don't know... lol. Actually, I think it's still not running right (can't remember - haven't driven it in 3 years
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It would run ok, but always fell on its face, then woke back up after they opened.
I would guess it's something to do with the length of the linkage.
So I am having a brake issue, someone give me some advice. But let me start I have not bled the brakes for a second time yet.
Jon and I bled the brakes peddle hard, no air in lines. Tried to drive the car, no brakes. When the car is not running I can hit the brakes and you hear "air" but a couple pumps and the peddle is hard. Start car hit the brakes you hear "air" and peddle goes to floor, every time.
The master came off a running/driving/stopping 4th gen and nothing was wrong with my booster before. There are no leaks. I know step one is bleeding the brakes again, but I am thinking its not going to change anything (I could be wrong). I was told bleeder screws are suppose to be on top of the calipers? Is this true, my LS1 front brakes the bleeders are on the bottom, I am almost positive they are on the right side (I know I sound like a idiot, but at this point I dont care). I know it is possible that the master or booster could be bad, but I was hoping that someone could give me more insight. I want this thing to stop this weekend.Leave a comment:
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I don't know... lol. Actually, I think it's still not running right (can't remember - haven't driven it in 3 years )
It would run ok, but always fell on its face, then woke back up after they opened.
I would guess it's something to do with the length of the linkage.Leave a comment:
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Those might need some adjusting on when they open. The ones in the GTO did the same thing, just used to fall on it's face.Leave a comment:
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ahh ok got yea, now we know its doing or not doing, someone might be able to help you with it, each system has its bonus and issuesLeave a comment:
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