Nate's Z28 Project

[JoeliusZ28]

you thank sammy for those panels too, he gave them to me before i gave them to you.

[my95z28]

Got the door panels put on, thanks again Joel. I need to get some of the window holder brushes for inside the door(idk what they are called)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28685[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]28687[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]28688[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]28686[/ATTACH]

Window felt. Can't you steal them off the other door panel? If not, might have to get them from the dealer though.

[nascarnate326]

Window felt. Can't you steal them off the other door panel? If not, might have to get them from the dealer though.

They are attached to the door frame its self.

I "fixed" one with a rag and a zip tie. there are none on the outside of the glass though.


The wire I cut....didnt work. Worse yet is that when pulling the pin out I f'd it up. I used pin 2 instead of pin(7) i think. Didnt realize there were two yellow with black lines on the same plug. I think one may be brown line but i cant tell colors that well.

So close...but so far away.


Anyone know what number 2 does?

[meissen]

Which plug are you talking about?

[Fbomb]

I see four yellow wires in the pic, and three of them with stripes...I can't tell.

looks like Larry figured it out before I did!

Since the starter is not turning on, there are several other things besides the vats module. Did you check the gear shift lever switch to make sure its making contact. also could be start relay not picking. See link http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_96.jpg

[nascarnate326]

Brian, I am talking about the wires under the passenger dash area. There are two blocks of wires. The front one has two yellow wires with black lines. I didnt see the other one, so I pulled pin #2 our and ground it out, did nothing. Then I realized there was another yellow wire with a black line. Now I am trying to figure out what the yellow wire I un pinned was for.


Most of the electrical stuff on shoebox doesnt help me because I dont understand what its saying, I am very non electrical. I am trying to bypass the relay according to shoebox website, but he does not use pin numbers just wires and colors.

Appears to be much easier with a LS1.


Any help would be much appreciated.

[alwaysmessedup]

ok in your videos when you are measuring resistance on the vats wires coming from the key cylinder one time u have 9.57 and the next time you have 0 correct. if this is so what you need to do is go to radio shack by a resistor that is as close to 9.57 and put it in the wires and see if it starts, if you have going on what i think you are trying to show then you more than likely need a key lock cylinder because the wires like to break right at the cylinder we see it all the time at work hope this helps. at work we have a vats box we just plug in down there take ur key and see what number and then turn our box to the same number and if its broken wires it will start. putting a resistor in is doing the same thing.

[Darren]

ok in your videos when you are measuring resistance on the vats wires coming from the key cylinder one time u have 9.57 and the next time you have 0 correct. if this is so what you need to do is go to radio shack by a resistor that is as close to 9.57 and put it in the wires and see if it starts, if you have going on what i think you are trying to show then you more than likely need a key lock cylinder because the wires like to break right at the cylinder we see it all the time at work hope this helps. at work we have a vats box we just plug in down there take ur key and see what number and then turn our box to the same number and if its broken wires it will start. putting a resistor in is doing the same thing.

Good info here, Nate does this help?

[meissen]

Yeah, I guess I'm having a hard time understanding what the problem is. As long as the VATS module is getting the right resistance of the chip in your key then you shouldn't have to do anything else at all... If you put the resistor in there like Dustin just described you shouldn't have to do anything with the ignition module. If you put the right resistance in and it still doesn't work, your VATS (which is part of the BCM) is bad.

[nascarnate326]

Yeah, I guess I'm having a hard time understanding what the problem is. As long as the VATS module is getting the right resistance of the chip in your key then you shouldn't have to do anything else at all... If you put the resistor in there like Dustin just described you shouldn't have to do anything with the ignition module. If you put the right resistance in and it still doesn't work, your VATS (which is part of the BCM) is bad.

I believe the BCM is bad. Problem is finding a BCM with a known code for my car( apparently 96-97 is what I need). I can get a blank BCM but the cost is enormous(have a 1 in 14 chance of not having to get a new key).

Or I can bypass Vats, and bypass the BCM or Ignition relay. This is what Vinnie did and I have tried to do with no success. I believe I have Vats bypassed thanks to the black box I bought but the BCM I do not have bypassed.

I took a chance on the car, knew it had some issues. If I had a fulltime job I would just have the dealer fix it but right now I have to save every penny I can.

I would love to pay someone to fix it for me, but who knows what hack job said person may do.

If anyone has any ideas I would certainly entertain them. Problem is, I have time not money

[white96TA]

Its too hard for me to sell them. And my taste in H models is expensive.
My green one isnt even running right now

yeah ive been searching craigslist religiously for a good deal, have not seen any pop up in while. im looking for a nice cheap non running H motor for my performance build. I think its just not the right season for deals and flipping ct70s. my new college house is on a 7 acre lot and i ride it all the time now, my driveway is a nice gravel 1/4 mile ct70 dragstrip lol

door panels look good!

[nascarnate326]

yeah ive been searching craigslist religiously for a good deal, have not seen any pop up in while. im looking for a nice cheap non running H motor for my performance build. I think its just not the right season for deals and flipping ct70s. my new college house is on a 7 acre lot and i ride it all the time now, my driveway is a nice gravel 1/4 mile ct70 dragstrip lol

door panels look good!

Thanks

My buddy Ben is going to be selling a 1970 H, orange. Sometime next week. IDK how much he wants, I know its a nice bike though.

I'm happy with the two I have. One to beat one, one to restore perfectly, numbers matching. Also having my dads original bike means a lot. Our 4 arnt going anywhere.

[JSTALT1]

I would sell it but because of its condition I feel that everyone would lowball me because of the condition. I mean, make me a good offer and I would entertain it. I would need a stock hood too. See where it gets kind of complicated? All in all its not worth 200 bucks cash

I will find a better job, its just a matter of time.

Honestly, after I get black carpet and door panels I will love my car 10x more.

Is it an SS style hood? I have a stock black z28 hood on my car right now, and my cars not black, id be interesting in setting something up to help ya out

[Fbomb]

Hey Nate I thought about this and looked it up in a Chilton manual today. It looks like your relay/fuse block is in the same location as mine, just differently shaped (front driver's side by the airbox). I would look under the cover and watch for a block that says "starter relay" then disconnect the battery, remove the block and look under it. It should be the yellow/black striped wire going to the relay that is labeled as the starter relay. If it's the wrong colors then it's something that can be figured out with a multimeter. Where is Olivet anyway?

[nascarnate326]

Hey Nate I thought about this and looked it up in a Chilton manual today. It looks like your relay/fuse block is in the same location as mine, just differently shaped (front driver's side by the airbox). I would look under the cover and watch for a block that says "starter relay" then disconnect the battery, remove the block and look under it. It should be the yellow/black striped wire going to the relay that is labeled as the starter relay. If it's the wrong colors then it's something that can be figured out with a multimeter. Where is Olivet anyway?

Olivet is half hour south of lansing right off I69.

My cover has nothing about a starter, says the labels.

IMG_1307..jpg

I just reparied the wire that I cut/messed up. Took the BCM out and it looks fine. I also took a video to show everyone exactly whats happening.


Thanks everyone for helping.


Does any of those relays look like what I need?