Project Celery Monster

[Fbomb]

Alright, since I'm NOT going to get a new daily driver I've got more plans for my moneypit coming this summer.
Double adjustable lower control arms
Double adjustable panhard bar
Adjustable torque arm with driveshaft loop

Will LCA relocation brackets help if I have adjustable LCA's?

Maybe new shocks and a slight drop, then wheels if I have the money. We'll see.

In the coming years I will likely be getting a tubular k-member and tubular adjustable a-arms.
Fun Fun.

[Lucky SOB]

New wheels should be the number 1 priority... along with a 1.5" drop of course

[c0ncEpT]

Alright, since I'm NOT going to get a new daily driver I've got more plans for my moneypit coming this summer.
Double adjustable lower control arms
Double adjustable panhard bar
Adjustable torque arm with driveshaft loop

Will LCA relocation brackets help if I have adjustable LCA's?

Maybe new shocks and a slight drop, then wheels if I have the money. We'll see.

In the coming years I will likely be getting a tubular k-member and tubular adjustable a-arms.
Fun Fun.

Relocation brackets are way more important than the control arms themselves. They control how hard you hit the tires and how long until they will unload depending on which hole you use.

While double adjustable shit is pretty trick its really not necessary. The only plus double adjustable gives you over single is they can be adjusted without having to take 1 end off the car. Once you adjust your panhard bar to center your axle you never going to change it unless you change the suspension geometry. Once you set the length of your LCA's your really never going to change those either.

I'm not saying not to get them because there very nice I'm sure but IMO the money is better spent else where.

[prorac1]

I wouldnt cap off your PCV and use a breather. You want to create as much of a vacuum as you can in the crankcase. Just take some carb clean and clean the poppet inside the PCV valve and make sure its free. Eric L

[Fbomb]

New wheels should be the number 1 priority... along with a 1.5" drop of course

I don't think I can go 1.5" because I live off of a dirt road, and my driveway is absolutely treacherous.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I agree with Mike, get the relocation brackets for sure they are cheap and necessary if you lower at all. I used them with stock LCAs for a little while and was happy with the results. Your going to need all the help you can get with hooking the car being that its a stick on a stock rear.

[93formulalt1]

I don't think I can go 1.5" because I live off of a dirt road, and my driveway is absolutely treacherous.

Fix the driveway then. No single mod on my car makes it stick out as much as the 1.5" drop. There's still plenty of ground clearance, I can drive on dirt roads all day long, just a little slower than I used to. It's worth it. Just make sure you get an alignment done, I couldn't find any place here in town that would touch my car to do an alignment (they all said the wheels were too big and it sat too low for their equipment to work), and now I have to buy new front tires because of it.

[Fbomb]

I'm going to be applying for my new plate this week. I'm shocked at how much my license fee is. It reads $91 if I pay it before the tab expires...

[WMCCjames]

Definately go with relocation brackets...that make a world of difference in launching the car. Also....I'm with the other guys...double adjustable are a waste of money unless you like being able to dial things in quickly like at the track. But once you get them set...you'll likely never change them. I would also recommend a LCA with the rod end/poly end for street use. They are quieter.

[JoeliusZ28]

Relocation brackets are way more important than the control arms themselves. They control how hard you hit the tires and how long until they will unload depending on which hole you use.

While double adjustable shit is pretty trick its really not necessary. The only plus double adjustable gives you over single is they can be adjusted without having to take 1 end off the car. Once you adjust your panhard bar to center your axle you never going to change it unless you change the suspension geometry. Once you set the length of your LCA's your really never going to change those either.

I'm not saying not to get them because there very nice I'm sure but IMO the money is better spent else where.

what this guy said

[Fbomb]

Well VATS acted up on me today...I went to the SOS to get my personalized plate, came out and tried to start it-nothing. So I waited for two hours in the parking lot trying to figure it out and finally gave up and called for a tow. Then I tried again shortly after calling and it fired up. I did fiddle with the wires going to the starter though, makes me think that had something to do with it? When I tried starting it, it wouldn't click or try to do anything, the security light would just come on and stay on for a while. Is there a way to delete VATS by the tune? and how would you guys recommend bypassing it?

[Fbomb]

Alright I'm going to try bypassing the lock cylinder with some resistors matching the key and hope that's it, I dunno the key looks pretty worn. If it's the BCM then I guess it'll be time to get HPtuners...

[Fbomb]

Didn't work.

[nascarnate326]

Did you test the key?

Did you test the key switch with key in and turned on?

are the values within 2%?

[Fbomb]

Did you test the key?

Did you test the key switch with key in and turned on?

are the values within 2%?

Yes, yes, and yes. Key tested at ~3.8k ohms and I bought resistors to produce 3.73k ohms of resistance, still nothing. At this point I am suspecting something with the BCM. Apparently I can delete VATS from the PCM completely and ground the starter relay and be on my way though.