my formula project...It's alive! Mwuahahahahaha

[c0ncEpT]

You are looking for much bigger cams than I think you will need. I would personally go with Mike's suggested 230/230 cam, that cam was very docile on the street and I bet you'd have amazing drivability with a 3600 converter and that setup would run a number with traction. I'd keep with high 220s on the intake are mid 230s on the exhaust if your hellbent on buying a used one. right around .600 lift on both ends and 112-114 lsa and you should be just fine.

That 230/230 cam I listed the specs for is sick. We used it in my buddys goat and the tuner even commented on how he thought it was the perfect size between to large and to small for a street car.

[JoeliusZ28]

^agreed. IMO low/mid 230s is that sweet spot.

[Formula Z]

thanks guys. not hell bent on buying used, just looking for a deal. ok then a 230/230 cam then. now im getting some kind of idea how this cam thing works. any news on them heads? thanks again

[DETROITMUSCLE]

no news on the heads yet, I will keep you updated on them seeing as it looks like a few people may be interested. Just keep your eyes peeled on tech as well, think about it in the long run, even if you were to pay $500 for a set of 243s thats much cheaper than the 2K your gonna spend going aftermarket and with the right porting they will flow just as well as some aftermarket castings.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

UPDATE

I can get you guys low mileage sets of 243s for $375.

[JoeliusZ28]

UPDATE

I can get you guys low mileage sets of 243s for $375.

by "sets" do you mean there are quantities of these available? Jon might be interested in a set too.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I can probably get more than one, I'm not exactly sure how many but if your serious send me a PM and we can get a little "group purchase" together.

[JoeliusZ28]

ill mention it to him tonight and if he is interested one of us will probably text you.

[Formula Z]

pm sent! hey these bolt right up? i know i can port and such but that may have to wait til next winter. anything special i need to bolt these up and go. sorry im a rookie when it comes to this stuff. thanks jeff

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Yes they will bolt right up, I would recommend running only GM MLS gaskets as I and some others I know of had had problems with Cometic and other aftermarket pieces. Also you will NEED new head bolts and I would start looking for a good deal on ARP bolts (they are reusable), I got mine for $100 off of tech. The studs are a better investment but you can't do those unless your pulling the motor.

[Formula Z]

yep knew id need new head bolts and was actually at summits website pricing them out. $150 there. also are these heads loaded? valves, springs, and such. will i still need to upgrade valve springs, lifters, and rockers? im planning on dropping the motor and trans within the next couple weeks. rear diff is coming out to for rebuild and new 3.73 gears. thanks again jeff

[DETROITMUSCLE]

UPDATE

Just talked to Phil again and he says he knows he can get 2 sets of the 243s for sure, they are assembled low mileage takeoffs. He also said he is pretty sure he can get 2 sets of the 799 heads which are the same exact heads but they are cast differently, die vs sand).

[Formula Z]

i want the 243s please. maybe we can meet somewhere next weekend and swap. could u possibly meet me somewhere in between, even if it isnt half way?

how does this cam sound for size?

Comp cams ....specs are 224/224 .561 max lift and 112 LSA

[Fbomb]

wow I missed a lot of this. I was pricing out head bolts a few days ago at work and it looks like I can get a set of Dorman ones for around $30 or so, I think. They're probably not the best quality though.

[81DaytonaPaceCar]

If you want a mid-high range cam or monster high end cam this will effect your converter choice. Choosing something with high 230-240 duration will mean your going to want to run a higher stall converter (3800+) Running a high 220-230 cam will warrant a 3600 converter (I honestly wouldn't go any lower even on a daily driven vehicle)

Quick question...the entire point of picking a torque converter is to try to match where your engine makes max torque in the RPM band.

I believe a stock LS1 makes max torque at 4000 RPM...thus either a 3600 or 3800 would be applicable as you want to be locked up right at, or just before, you make max torque.

Now, how can you automatically know what converter to run after changing cam, heads, etc. without putting it on an engine dyno to confirm where the max torque is in the RPM band? If max torque has now moved up to 4500 RPM, you're shorting yourself on the converter by only running a 3600 stall...