Originally posted by Schuby87
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<Project> 1998 Trans Am Upgrades
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I thought I had a rear main seal leak but upon further inspection the flexplate and bellhousing don't show any signs of oil. It looks like it is coming from my oil pressure sensor. I thought I was careful when I did my intake swap but apparently I wasn't careful enough. I ordered a new oil pressure sensor, carrier pinion seal, and a brake master cylinder. My brakes were getting a little weak last year so now would be a good time to replace it since I have to bleed the brakes anyway.

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I finally got a chance to work on this today. I'm really digging the ease of working on the engine out of the car. I kept thinking of all the busted knuckles and scratched forearms from swapping the intake in the past while it took all of 5 min to take off today. I got the wiring harness labeled and pulled off, intake off, coolant lines crossover off, valve covers off, a little degreasing and cleaning, and swapped hardware on to the new center mount valve covers.

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Post Slut
- December 9th, 2011
- 5919
- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Lowell, MI
- Meat Processor
- Send PM
I will own one some dayOriginally posted by OVRKILL View Posta 280z Datsun

1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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Looks good so far Brett!- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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Got the water pump, power steering, rockers, pedestals, pushrods, head bolts, and one head off. All cylinders still have nice cross hatching but the coolant passages looked a little gummed up.


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Almost down to a shortblock. I need to stop by the autoparts store and pick up a crank pulley puller.
I picked up an ice scraper to get the graphite gasket material and it gets it off good but what is the best way to keep the crap from falling in the coolant passages and lifter tray valleys?
Also, what is the best way to keep the flywheel from turning when getting the crank bolt off?


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Looks good Brett! Not familiar enough with the LS1s to provide answers for your two questions, though
- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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I have a pulley puller if your heading this way anytime soon it will make things a bit easier for you. As for holding the flexplate if you have a decent impact gun you can use that to break it free, sometimes you have to work at it for a while, otherwise have someone else hold a wrench one of the bolts on the flexplate when you crank on the balancer bolt. As for the old gaket I just scraped and had a shop vac nearby or even stuff some rags of paper towel lightly in the passages just dont push them down too far.Doing less with more

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/\ definatly the best option. We made one that I use but it won't work with the stock flexplate.Doing less with more

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I will take you up on that offer. Can you text me your new address? I can swing by after work next week.Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View PostI have a pulley puller if your heading this way anytime soon it will make things a bit easier for you. As for holding the flexplate if you have a decent impact gun you can use that to break it free, sometimes you have to work at it for a while, otherwise have someone else hold a wrench one of the bolts on the flexplate when you crank on the balancer bolt. As for the old gaket I just scraped and had a shop vac nearby or even stuff some rags of paper towel lightly in the passages just dont push them down too far.
Pull off your flexplate so I can use your tool.Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Post/\ definatly the best option. We made one that I use but it won't work with the stock flexplate.
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text sent I have anold crank bolt that we turned down the collar on that you can install to use the puller, nice thing is the puller will slide rightover the bolt so no need to back it out periosically and readjust anything. I also have a piece of threaded rod and some washers for reinstalling if youd like.
Flexplate can be pruchased here
http://www.speedinc.com/catagory.cfm...y=Transmission
Its the Speedinc one but I actually searched the manufacturer and bought it direct for them for like half the price
Doing less with more

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I got the crank bolt out by clamping vice grips to the flexplate to stop the engine from turning over and slipped the end of my jack handle over the breaker bar. It wasn't hard to get out by doing that.
The ice scraper isn't working as well as I thought. Maybe because it's the soft plastic type? Any suggestions for getting the graphite material off the block?

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