hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

[Nocooler]

Yes - the LS6 Z06 cam is a direct fit in your engine. The LS9 ZR1 cam require a bunch of changes, like Larry said.

[Formula Z]

Re: hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

You would do the z06 cam before the zr1??

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[Nocooler]

Are you set against getting the LS6 Z06 cam? I know you want some thump - but for the $$ it's a great cam.

[1BADAIR]

probably be cheaper getting an aftermarket cam unless you have the cover, harness, and cam gear from your ls2

[Formula Z]

Re: hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

Wasnt planning on running other heads just wanted to know why. i just want to know how to make the most "reliable" hp without running over 15 lbs of boost or too much timing and still be 600whp

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[1999Black_Z28]

I would run the stock heads and buy the cam from tick or speed with the money you save. The 317's will really lower your compression on that 5.3 and unless you are running a ton of boost there's no reason to. Not sure on the final compression with the 243's but I think your money is better spent elsewhere IMO

[Formula Z]

besides cost, how much of a difference will it make choosing a specific cam like a TU1 or tick stage 1 boost cam over a zr1 cam? how much will the stock 5.3 heads affect spool time/power over some 317s or 243s? which of these questions will affect my goal of 600-650 rwhp with running under 15psi. basically i need to stay under 15#s of boost and want to reach my goal. my 98 pcm will only run up to 15#s i understand. ive been trying to do research so i can understand this stuff, but there is so much info out there. wastegate controls the boost right? jonny your wg comes with a 12# spring so are there other springs available or do i have to get into a e-boost controller to go higher? i do want an eboost controller sooner or later

[1999Black_Z28]

I prefer the threaded IAT from a tuning standpoint. The threaded sensor has been proven to be more accurate and adjusts to temperature changes quicker.

You can go to Advance/Autozone/etc and ask for a Intake Temp Sensor for a 1991 GMC Cyclone.

I believe these are the following part numbers but you should double check anyways:
GM: 25036751
Advance: WT382P (this is the one I bought for $15 and I confirmed this is the correct p/n)
Autozone: SU107

[Superman09]

Yes either that or you can buy a threaded sensor and have a bung welded to the charge pipe.

Either or, but no issues running the stock grommet style. It will hold under boost no problem!

[c0ncEpT]

Ok so keep my sensor?

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Yes either that or you can buy a threaded sensor and have a bung welded to the charge pipe.

[Superman09]

Ok so keep my sensor?

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Yes. You will still need it and use it.

[Formula Z]

Re: hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

Ok so keep my sensor?

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[Superman09]

Sold my slp lid and bellow but am wondering should i keep the sensor on the side of the lid if im running speed density?????

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Yes, that would be your IAT sensor, no relation to speed density. For speed density you will not be using the MAF

[Formula Z]

Re: hp/tq/ and 1/4 with a 76mm/78mm turbo

Sold my slp lid and bellow but am wondering should i keep the sensor on the side of the lid if im running speed density?????

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[1999Black_Z28]

I was thinking about running a DW300. You have to modify the bucket though?

I'm not sure how the older ones work but the 99+ tanks have an internal bucket which is filled by a venturi system off the main fuel pump. The only aftermarket pump that replaces the venturi is the racetronix 255 but I already have that and it's not enough. No matter what I do I will need to modify the bucket myself to eliminate the venturi (and drill holes in the bottom of the bucket) or send it out to Lonnie's and pay $600 for a dual setup which is more than I need. Lonnies has been proven to be very reliable but anytime you add additional pumps and switches there is always the chance of a failure.

If you are interested I can get you in touch with someone who can source the DW300 for $145 shipped.