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On the 1998 connector, C1 (Red connector) pin 36 Dk Blue wire is the feed wire to the gas gauge in the cluster. Fuel level sender input is C2 (Blue connector) pin 10 Purple wire.
C1 pin 75 Grey wire is the sender ground. Not 100% sure if you need this to run this as a dedicated ground or if it can tie into a common ground. I think you connected fuel pump and sender ground together at the connector, correct?
Yes, Mike that is what I did. Also, dont forget that this pcm and gauge sender are from the same car. So I dont know what difference tunning it would make.
ok, I need help with the air conditioning circuit. I have voltage at the air conditioning request wire, but thats it. both cars air conditioning worked before the swap. There is no voltage @ the compresor or anywhere else other than the request wire. The only other clue I can offer is The fans dont work when the air is selected either. I havent heard them come on in response to temp. only when I unplug the temp sender do they come on. I dont really understand the circuit, but if someone could esplain it, using small words I would appreciate it.
Also I am trying to figure out the gas gauge. I spliced the sender ground, from the 98, into the pump ground and it is pegged full, and I know there isnt any gas in the tank. I dont believe the 94 gauge uses the pcm. So I am thinking this sender from the 98 model isnt compatible with my dash. Or could I have it wired backwards?
Physically the senders are different. So I cant just swap the sender.
Red C1 pin 43 dark green wire controls relay #1 and should be in pin J of C100
Blue C2 pin 28 dark blue wire controls relay #2 and #3 and should be in pin H of C100
Red C1 pin 39 dark green/white strip wire controls AC compressor and should be in pin B of C100. AC request should come in via C230 blue connector under dash, pin F dark green/white wire.
Tachs in these cars are notoriously off. I still need to set my needle in the correct spot on mine.
Red C1 pin 43 dark green wire controls relay #1 and should be in pin J of C100Blue C2 pin 28 dark blue wire controls relay #2 and #3 and should be in pin H of C100Red C1 pin 39 dark green/white strip wire controls AC compressor and should be in pin B of C100. AC request should come in via C230 blue connector under dash, pin F dark green/white wire.Tachs in these cars are notoriously off. I still need to set my needle in the correct spot on mine.
I spoke to the mechanic @ work, he told me that the pressure switch will not allow it to go until it reads pressure. So I need to get it charged. Then it should work. None of the wires on the a/c side get moved durring the swap so Im going to try it.Mike, I am going to send the pcm to frost, thank you for your help and offer but this way its just done and over with. The tach reads low at idle and doesnt really move with the rpms of the engine, I mean, ot does just not high enough.
Mechanic at work also suggested I switch the wires around on the sender, he feels I may have them reversed
Nope. tried every combination I could think of.....nada. So I get to drop the tank again! The new idea is to split the sending units at the hinge point and use the fuel gauge sender from the 94 with the upper portion from the 98, this will give me the lines I need for the fuel line and the line for the regulator.
One step forward 10 steps back.
This @$& &$@?# tank is really putting up a fight. I had to resort to cutting the bracket the fuel gauge sender is attached to, and welding it to the 98 bracket in the appropriate location. I only set the pump on fire once in the process. I had wanted to split the sender brackets at the hinge, and use the portion with the 94 fuel gauge sender. Then just move the pump over. However, the 98 pump wont work on that bracket, its a completely different attachment.
It works. Just need to reassemble the tank. And put things back together. Hopefully, I wont wreck anything in the process.
Intake air is finished, Ill post pics tomorrow. Looks like a factory system. I used half the lt system and some salvage yard parts to complete it. Itll work for now.
Just need to get the air charged and front end alignment done and it should ne good to go.
Good to hear. I didn't think about a charge on the AC, they shut off below 25 or 30 psi on the low side.
You should put a new AC accumulator/drier in as well as a new orifice tube (if equipped in 94) if the system was apart for any length of time. New seals wouldn't hurt. I just did mine earlier this week, full flush and drained compressor, new drier, 8oz PAG 150, and 24oz of R-134a. Cost me about $200 as I bought all the tools and equipment to do AC at home.
I just checked my spare unit in the garage, they did switch level sensor in 98. I was almost positive that it was 0-90 ohm but it tested 43 ohms empty and 252 full. I probably got my info switched when I was researching a tank swap years back for my IROC.
Thanks for checking Mike. Yeah it was appart, but I had vinyl caps on it to keep stuff out. I put the fuel tank back in today. It wasnt real tough once it was figured out. I had to do a little welding, repin for the electrical connections. That tank is quite a contraption. The gauge doesnt quite go all the way to empty, it hangs just above E, but it may behave differently with fuel in it. The needle moves with the float. Thats the main thing. Tomorrow I will begin reassmbly of the rear end of the car. I just realized I didnt post the pictures I said I was going to post...oooops.
Just looking at all the headaches you've dealt with I'm thinking about swapping my body harness and fuel system as well. Plug and play, then I can still refer to my OEM service manual for anything that comes up.
You could go that way. I didnt do the body harness because I was worried about things on the 94 not working with it. The fuel system can be done easier by using a 'vette fuel rail with the stock lines. You will need a new fuel pump with the appropriate rating. The vette fuel rail has the regulator on it s o that would be all you needed for that.
Changing the body harness would be a lot of work. You would be rewiring the e ntire car. Most of the interior and dash would need to be removed. Thats a lot of work.
While my swap has had some frustrating challenges, its been quite an experience. I cant really call it fun.....but it has been rewarding.
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