Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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Ummm... yeah... Motor, trans and front suspension is in. Waiting on wiring harness. Actually Im kinda dead in the water till I get the harness. Ill post pics when I get to my puter.
I hope I can remember where all this crap goes...lol!....no, really .....
the 94 cross member hits the pan on the drivers side and the trans mount is about an inch behind the cross member. The ls member is bent the wrong direction so there is no mounting holes on one side to line up. the trans mount on the ls style trans is located further back about 1.5 inches or so. My thoughts were to put the mount on in its factory location and have a tab welded to the x member for the bolt into the trans mount but the trans hits the thing.. Im going to try and get pics.
After a little more reading, most weld on a perch to the LT1 A4 crossmember.
It seems odd that GM would set the trans back further in the LS1 setup vs the LT1. I'd assume the driveshaft and torque arm are shorter in the 98+ as well?
No sir, the distance from the tail end of the trans to the mount center are different by about 1 5/8" . I laid both torque arms next to each other and they are identical. drive shafts measured the same. I am kicking around a couple of ideas to fix this member. One is pretty elaborate, so, of course Its the one I would like to do, but its a lot of fabrication and welding.
A perch is a simple fix but, I am still hitting the corner of the pan, and it just seems to give the trans a lever to twist the cross member with. I could modify it..... This matter will require further contemplation......
Now then. Where is the vacuum fitting for the heater controls located on the engine? I cant find that sucker anywhere. Please dont tell me it s behind the intake. I already had to lift the body off the frame to install the harness today.
The big side of that goes to the brake booster, right? So I can just follow that hose down.
I had to pull the body off the frame this morning to get at the back of the motor for the wiring harness. I could have pulled the intake but I figured, why take a risk on something going haywire. Took me a couple hours. And I got to put all the looms in their holders, just like factory. Man its tight back there.
I picked a direction to go with my trans x member. Im putting the mount on the member and extending the ears forward.
It's a start, my welding skills have deteriorated, but it'll stay together. Some fine tuning with the grinder tomorrow, a bit more welding, drill some holes, paint . progress.
Harness is almost completely installed, starter and alternator, maf. thats about it.
Still need to send out my pcm for deletes. looks like Ill have to do mail order. Why would someone insist on dyno tune session for a stock motor with headers? All I want is evap,airpump, egr tuned out. lockup@ 45 mph, set the speedo for my gear, and delete vats. $550.00, no way.
I can do it that, I have a standalone setup to bench tune 98 PCMs. I'd have to go borrow Darius's EFIlive so I don't have to use $100 worth of my HP Tuner credits.
I can plug in your vin number as well, but if you ever want to tune it with HP Tuners it will come up with a VIN/OS Mismatch error.
Edit: I have noticed that my AIR pump will still kick on even when it has been tuned out It isn't hooked up to anything, so I could remove it or pull the fuse....but it really doesn't bother me since there are no codes
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