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Good bye LT-1....Helloooooo LS-1!

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  • Originally posted by zeeman View Post
    He did, but the pad is cracked in the corner. So I was going to swap this one into it this winter.
    Right the pad is removable. How about the entire dash! lol trying to make you some money here. I can get a pad elsewhere.
    2002 Z28 Camaro A4
    1993 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
    1999 Z28 Camaro M6- SOLD
    2008 Ford Fusion SE - DD
    -- MCALUS MOLDED PILLAR PODS, PM ME FOR MORE INFO--
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    • Im sorry Mike, My dash, the one Nick installed is cracked. The vinyl is shattered under the air conditioning vent on the drivers side. So I was going to use this one in the 94. The upper "pad" in the 98 exploded as soon as I touched it. I am sweating just thinking about pulling mine out to swap in this dash. But I have a lot to do before that day comes.

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      • Hoogies, let me know whats up. I may have to pull this harness partially. I am running into some electrical issues, I have no fans or air conditioning. My harness guy and I are trying to figure things out. But if you are going to come out I dont want to disable the car so you can do your thing.

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        • So heres the next thing that I am thinking about doing. I received a slp air box with this car and really want to use it. Buut even with my cowl hood there is no way it will fit. So I was looking at the front end of the cars and how they differ from each other. I believe I can cut the center section out of the upper portion of the core support and weld in some plates to drop the top of the core support low enough to run the slp intake. then I can lower the bottom of the radiator support enough to fit the radiator back in. I would need to pull the nose off and the support structure. the more I look at it the more i think it will be easy. The hardest part looks like it will be the support for the lower air dam. That will have to be cut off the radiator support and an extension welded on to lower the radiator support.
          After I strip the rest of the parts off the 98 I am going to cut the core support out So I have some metal to work with.

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          • http://joelrdevriendt.com/?p=46

            this might help you some, i plan to use this method when i install my lid if it doesn't fit under my cowl hood.
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            If you come across a cobra in the wild, wipe it off and apologize.

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            • I thought about doing that as well but unfortunately I'm not allowed to modify anything else on the car to make the thing for. Looks like I'm forced to use the LT1 style intake.
              1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator

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              • Well, theres another way to go. Looks a bit less invasive than what I had planned. Thanks

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                • So, it looks like I will be pulling the tank. I am going to fix the 94 sending unit to accept the 98 pump. That will give me the correct sending unit for the gauge. I just need to add the flare to the return line to accept the pressure regulator. The mechanic at work has the tool to do it.

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                  • I'd make sure it's wired correctly.

                    On the 1998 connector, C1 (Red connector) pin 36 Dk Blue wire is the feed wire to the gas gauge in the cluster. Fuel level sender input is C2 (Blue connector) pin 10 Purple wire.

                    C1 pin 75 Grey wire is the sender ground. Not 100% sure if you need this to run this as a dedicated ground or if it can tie into a common ground. I think you connected fuel pump and sender ground together at the connector, correct?

                    1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                    1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                    1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                    2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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                    • If you want, it would be cheaper to ship the PCM than it would for me to drive (have to run 93 octane) but it would only be for component deletes in the tune. Nate's car off the road currently so it would single purpose trip.

                      My biggest concern is driving ~150 miles and a little over 2 hours to a car that has an issue, spend 10 minutes to upload a canned tune, then have to drive all the way back. Street tuning takes a bit of time and quite a few hard miles.

                      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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                      • Came along this site in case you still need any wiring information.

                        http://www.lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm
                        1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator

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                        • Thanks Devin, Ive been looking @ his site too, lots of good info on there.

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                          • Mike, I dont blame you. I didnt expect to have these issues with the wiring. For right now I need the pcm so I can diagnose ,so Im going to go into a holding pattern on programing right now. Something is not correct with my setup but I am not sure what just yet. Once I get it figured out I may contact you for the tuning and deletes if we can arrange something.

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                            • Ok, so as I understand it. If I disconect the temp sensor, the pcm should turn on the fans. Im going to try that tonight

                              Another issue It has is with the fuse box under the hood. When I hooked the battery up the fuse that was for 10 injectors popped. I put the test light on the pos. Side of the battery to test for a short in that fuse. Not only did the blown fuse light yhe light but all of the fuses act like a ground. They all light the light. So something is back feeding a ground to my fuse panel.

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                              • Originally posted by zeeman View Post
                                So, it looks like I will be pulling the tank. I am going to fix the 94 sending unit to accept the 98 pump. That will give me the correct sending unit for the gauge. I just need to add the flare to the return line to accept the pressure regulator. The mechanic at work has the tool to do it.

                                Well, that idea is out. I took out the 94 sender....again.... the return line is shrunk down to like 5/16. The line before the crimp was the correct size if I remember it right. jezuz, one step forward 10 steps back. Im going to take it in anyway and let him look at it.

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