ls1 or ls2-3?

[TRY MEH]

I don't know of any body who can out port/polish a CNC machine. But that would be for squeezing the most horsepower out of them. By all means if you can oversize the valves, do a angle job on them and port and polish it go for it. Just remember by smoothing it to much or taking to much out you can be losing power do to the fuel not atomizing correctly.

my dad does performance machining for mopars "he would be doing the machine work" but it dont cost me lol

anyways
why everyone is against me getting
nitro/frame connectors/rotors
all the other things im planning on getting over time intake cam ect..

i think nitro will serve much more hp than a cam will... but i dont want to get into my motor just yet ether

[Fox Slaughter]

my dad does performance machining for mopars "he would be doing the machine work" but it dont cost me lol

anyways
why everyone is against me getting
nitro/frame connectors/rotors
all the other things im planning on getting over time intake cam ect..

No one is against you. Just giving advice. As I said a 7.5" 10 bolt you are gonna grenade. You can even grenade them just on a hard launch. The stock T56 out of a Fbody is only rated to like 450ft lbs at the flywheel. Drop a 250 shot on that and you will probably watch it bleed all over the ground. You can't just add power to the engine without modifying the rest of the drivetrain.

[sman]

You need a ton of supporting mods, safety equipment, and a SPOT on tune if you think your spray 250. Its not a willy nilly kind of thing. I am still new to the n2o thing myself. But you cant just slap a kit on and hit the road.

If your going to cam it, thats fine. If your going to spray it, thats fine too. But if your going to do both plan and account for that now so your not redoing stuff later. The fbody fuel pump really only seems to be good to around 500-550(assuming its low miles and healthy, but an upgrade wouldnt hurt). Doesnt matter how you get there, as its still going to need fuel. The bottom end appears to be done right in there too, sometimes sooner. A lot of it has to do with the tune.

I am not against you getting
NITROUS, sfc's, and new brake rotors.

However, plan your nitrous kit accordingly. Do you want to use a nozzle setup? Maf ends? Plate? Wet or dry? Are you seriously thinking about hitting it with a 250 shot? I would HIGHLY advise at a minimum some different pistons.
Your going to need at a minimum, bottle, blow down tube, lines, noids, heater, FPSS, window switch, wot switch, pressure gauge, a way to pull timing (timing twister, or resistor mod), switches. Im sure I missed something. But that should get your shopping list started...

You should read these...
http://ls1tech.com/forums/13697598-post2.html
http://ls1tech.com/forums/13697715-post3.html
http://ls1tech.com/forums/13697797-post4.html

That guy is not gospel by any means, but theres a quick n2o 101 for you.

SFC's are a GREAT mod, I am a firm believer in them and have UMI's on my car and love them. UMI makes a great product, and I seriously doubt youll get better ground clearance out of anyone elses. Dont waste your time or money with 2pts, make sure you buy 3pts. Someone had a set for sale on here last week, might still be up for grabs. Something else you should look into are tubular rear control arms and relocation brackets.

As far as rotors go.... dont skimp out, they will just warp. I would advise you get zinc plated, this way the area thats not a contact surface wont rust. You dont want/need slotted/drilled unless your beating the crap out of it on a road course all the time. Blanks provide the best stopping power, PERIOD. A quality blank by brembo or somewhere similar will not warp as easily or at all in comparison to cheaper brands. Watch how your are on your lug nuts as well. Going gorilla on them will almost guaranty a warped rotor, thats why we have tq specs.

Hope that answers some of your questions.....

[c0ncEpT]

That car would get at least 2 grand in bolt ons before I would ever think about putting a cam or a shot on it.

[TRY MEH]

i dont plan on a 250 shot but i want it for if i felt the need the most i will go for along time will be 150 shot so basically consider me at a 150 shot... not a 250... i know a 200 is pushing the motors limits i dont beat on my machine like that lol id like to keep it at 150 till i understand more things

i plan on using the maf

im going to start out using 50... then 75...100.....125.....150 ect.. but ill stop at 150 shot for awhile a year or so cuz thats plenty as it is..

sfc- u think i should u 3 pt umi's not the 3pt slp's? i want good ground clearance but i like slp brand.. but honestly dont care about brand when it comes to performance and quality "i would rather the better one"

rotors i looked at are zinc plated im prettty sure ill have to double check.. but i figure drilled/slotted will help me stop faster. my breaks are not the best for stopping

u answered alot of questions and them sites have good info =] just need some time to read them when im not busy

[hoogiesngrinderz]

I've had good experience with both my drilled rotors and slotted rotors for my '00 Jimmy. I ordered the slotted and I got a set of each in the mail The were about $225 each set. With that said, I did put on a quality pads as well. Hawks pads with the slotted, I think EBC pads with the drilled. Who's to say it wasn't just the better pads that provided a big difference in stopping power??

I have the cheap ebay D/S rotors and pads on my Camaro now, I will find out this spring if they are a waste of money

My Spohn A-arm situation caused me to spend my money with UMI. Sean has a set for sale --> http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...233#post721233

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Since it looks like Sean sold his, try here -> http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...for-sale/page2

[TRY MEH]

u guys wanna see something cool?
6.0 =D *thx again 1badair*
i swapped brown and pink wires.. it seems to start better but still having some issues? what is red wire for ***what order do the go in****
tt2's (there honestly my brothers) way to wide lol 315's

IMG_20120309_141933.jpgIMG_20120309_140359.jpgIMG_20120309_135512.jpg

[1BADAIR]

check the codes. current and stored. either the tune is off or maybe it has the 4x cam gear

[TRY MEH]

check the codes. current and stored. either the tune is off or maybe it has the 4x cam gear

should i reset my codes?
also im getting a tune soon should i just wait?