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Project: PBR-Built Z/28

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  • Bringing this back to the top since we could use some discussion material lately and I can't seem to make up my mind... I am asking this more from a financial perspective than a technical one. I'm not trying to impress anyone. To me a house and money in the bank is more important, but I still like having a car.

    Anyway, the suspension on my car is an issue. Its tired and worn, and it looks like a damn 4x4. the wheel hop at the track and while taking corners under power is enough to start an earthquake. And its bound to break something eventually. Part of this problem is related to my torque arm, which is going to be an expense in itself... but thats another topic. The car also experiences a little [using a jeep term here] "death wobble" going over large bumps on the highway. (sways back and forth like a canoe). I am not sure why its happening, the car didn't do this when i bought it. I assume worn parts. I also found my steering shaft is worn out and needs to be replaced, so there is slop in the wheel.

    I love autocross and road racing as much as I am a frugal SOB. I've even tossed around selling the car because I don't want to spend money on it. But everything considered, its still probably the best bang for the buck I can think of and I can't see myself without a car.


    Considering these options:

    1) Spend in the ballpark of $600-1200 to replace/upgrade to SLP Level II suspension. This kit includes 3/4" eibach drop springs and bilstein shocks, as originally packaged optionally on SLP cars. (see picture below) Any needed bushings and misc components would be replaced. Also, a slight wheel spacer kit to kick the wheels out just a touch and complete the look. Wouldnt go any further in the forseable future.... all of the heavy stock control arms and k-member would stay. Would probably pay a reputable shop I have in mind to do everything (because of my back). Could potentially clear up a lot of issues and finish my appearance modifications.

    2) Leave it alone and drive the sucker into the ground. This is what I have been doing lately, getting by only on needed repairs. The car is afterall still enjoyable the way it is. I'd consider buying a Corvette later on and just put the z28 on hold for a while and eventually perform a restoration. Or buy a truck and trailer to manage the breakdowns.

    3) Save and eventually do an all-out autocross/road race suspension. Tubular everything, adjustable everything, what I really want. But don't need.

    4) Other suggestions???



    To the older more experienced guys here, what would you do if you were at this stage of life and you expected to keep the car for the long haul? Let it deteriorate and fix later in lieu of other life goals? or fix what should be fixed? As much as I can't justify spending money on the car I can't justify selling it either. Option 1 sounds the best on paper to me, but I have a hard time deflecting money from the market where it could otherwise be generating me a nice return. And yes, even if its only $600


    SLP kit:
    343_30973758982_5660_n.jpg

    My car as it sits:
    Last edited by JoeliusZ28; September 5th, 2012, 08:56 PM.
    -Joel
    1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
    1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


    WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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    • Personally, I would go with option #1. I don't see you driving any car into the ground, and if it would only take $600-$1000 to increase the amount of enjoyment you get out of it that much, it's worth it. At least that's the way I see it.
      Nick H.
      Current MIFC Vice President

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      • Build LT1 to road race. Buy LS1 car for 1320. Buy Corvette to cruise in. Buy truck and trailer to haul them all around. Ship that.


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        • Option 3, get what you want when you can
          1997 Trans Am
          T56 swap. LS1 Cosmetics

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          • Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
            Build LT1 to road race. Buy LS1 car for 1320. Buy Corvette to cruise in. Buy truck and trailer to haul them all around. Ship that.
            You forgot the fountain offshore race boat dawg!
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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            • Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
              You forgot the fountain offshore race boat dawg!
              Ahhh yes. Make sure the truck is a diesel then!


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              • Honestly not really a fan of the options you presented, but we'll talk more about this Friday at Duggans over some brews.

                1. Fix bushings and steering column before anything else if they're really that bad
                2. Get decent lowering springs like vogtlands or stranos. I would not waste my time with eibachs
                3. Get decent shocks. I'm upgrading my monroes to bilsteins
                4. Do shocks and springs at the same time. There's no sense in having your front springs assembled with old shocks
                5. Drive car with the above moderately affordable upgrades, then asses needs for PHB, LCAs, etc. the tubular suspension stuff can get pricey pretty quickly.

                I think you can get the car feeling much tighter on the road course and street for $750 and find some new enjoyment out of driving it now that it will be a bit more responsive. Again, we'll talk about this Friday...
                2000 Trans Am l 1967 Firebird

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                • Complete poly kit - $185
                  Bilstein shocks - $445
                  Eibach Pro kit - $220

                  $850 total. You could cut your stock springs to save $$$, but I don't like that approach. Find a LS1 steering shaft and go to town

                  There is a guy over here with a totaled TA, he has front spindles w/ 2010 Camaro Brembo brakes - he's asking $400.

                  1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                  1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                  1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                  2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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                  • I would fix the areas where you believe it needs work and then enjoy it. I wouldn't go overboard, but I would definitely address the issues you mentioned with a good part, that way you can still have a car to do it all, enjoy it, and perform well!
                    sigpic

                    98' Trans Am - Huron Speed Turbo Car

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                    • Just to clarify guys, this is the kit/price I would be looking to go with: http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...oducts_id=1075

                      Barely above $600 for springs and shocks right there, I am budgeting more for the misc. expenses as well as for the install if I end up taking it to a shop. I assume an alignment would be needed as well. If I am going to tear into it, I want it done right.

                      Good stuff so far, thank you!
                      Last edited by JoeliusZ28; September 5th, 2012, 09:46 PM.
                      -Joel
                      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                      Comment


                      • It's just money... An extra few hundred is nothing for having a car that sits nice and handles better
                        2000 Trans Am l 1967 Firebird

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                        • Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
                          Complete poly kit - $185
                          Bilstein shocks - $445
                          Eibach Pro kit - $220

                          $850 total. You could cut your stock springs to save $$$, but I don't like that approach. Find a LS1 steering shaft and go to town
                          I am going to snag an LS1 steering shaft soon, that's the easiest fix for sure. A pro kit is out of the running though. That's what Nate has, and there is no way in hell my exhaust would clear with that much drop. This is why I chose the SLP kit, they seem to be the only one that drops the car less than an inch (which seems to equate to more on an iron block lt1.). Also, it maintains just a tad bit of rake, which I like.

                          Brakes are on the agenda too, but believe it or not my stockers with hawk pads and raybestos blanks have been doing pretty well other than the brake dust and occasional squeal
                          -Joel
                          1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                          1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                          WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                          Comment


                          • Not sure what the LT1 brakes are like personally, just hear about them sucking I know the LS1/LT1 brake swap on my Iroc was hands down the best upgrade I've done to date. Sure, doubling the HP and switching to a manual is fun and all- but I like being able to stop.

                            1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                            1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                            1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                            2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Lucky SOB View Post
                              Honestly not really a fan of the options you presented, but we'll talk more about this Friday at Duggans over some brews.


                              Again, we'll talk about this Friday...
                              Lol, better talk fast.....you're only good for two beers


                              Joel, good choice on the SLP kit. Had them on my 96 SS and 94. Will do exactly what you're looking for. Do have to agree with Mr Bar Fly and get the other stuff fixed too.
                              sigpic
                              o·vr·kill [oh-ver-kil]1. an excess of what is required or suitable, as because of zeal or misjudgment.

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                              • What about rear LCAs and relocation brackets? I have a stock torque arm and I've never felt wheel hop.
                                - Brian Meissen
                                Owner, MiFBody.com
                                Administrator, LTxTech.com


                                1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                                2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                                Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                                June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                                The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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