Back in an F-body, time for a turbo!

[Lucky SOB]

Well now you're doing heads too?

I've done them in the car... It's not the end of the world. Pulling the engine makes working on it much easier, but I've only ever pulled a car off the engine with a hoist. IMO, if you pull the engine, throw some money into it while it's out to build it how you want.

[mcalus]

Well now you're doing heads too?

I've done them in the car... It's not the end of the world. Pulling the engine makes working on it much easier, but I've only ever pulled a car off the engine with a hoist. IMO, if you pull the engine, throw some money into it while it's out to build it how you want.

I dont know if I'm doing heads or not. I know a set of 317 would lower my compression but I really don't plan on taking it past 7or 8 lbs until I'm ready to blow it up lol.

[JoeliusZ28]

If you arent trying to make big numbers with this thing id leave it be and run low boost... Its going to make plenty of power. And theres nothing wrong with doing the job in that small garage my only concern would be if you have space to roll the kmember around and close the garage.

[nascarnate326]

How much boost do you plan on running?
After reading a lot more on the on3 turbo, I see why you are leaning towards it.

[mcalus]

If you arent trying to make big numbers with this thing id leave it be and run low boost... Its going to make plenty of power. And theres nothing wrong with doing the job in that small garage my only concern would be if you have space to roll the kmember around and close the garage.

I'll have to clean the garage out before winter and see how much room I can have. Really anything g in store in there can be put in the basement (semi walkout basement) other than the snowblower and shovels, gas.

How much boost do you plan on running?
After reading a lot more on the on3 turbo, I see why you are leaning towards it.

6-7lbs. Nothing crazy. Just something to get my feet wet, weekend cruiser type of thing. Occasional track day.

[Superman09]

The turbo itself is the heart of the whole operation. If you are going to cut costs in some areas, I would not suggest it at the most important component. Sure a lot have had success, but a lot also have not putting them back to square one and out money with possibly other damaged components and no warranty or support to back it up.

[mcalus]

The turbo itself is the heart of the whole operation. If you are going to cut costs in some areas, I would not suggest it at the most important component. Sure a lot have had success, but a lot also have not putting them back to square one and out money with possibly other damaged components and no warranty or support to back it up.

I'm still a ways out before I buy one just trying to get some opinions and a plan. I'll definitely be talking to you Jonny before i make my final decision.

[mcalus]

This might be a dumb question so bare with me. One of many

Since I have every intention of swapping this to a 6 speed in the near future, it would basically be a waste of my time to get a stall right? I mean I know the turbo and track times would greatly benefit from it. Also I have 2.73s. Should I be looking for a 3.42 or 3.23 10 bolt?

[birdie2000]

How long do you think before 1.) the turbo setup is finished and drivable, and 2.) you'll convert it to a T56 after the turbo setup is drivable?

[mcalus]

How long do you think before 1.) the turbo setup is finished and drivable, and 2.) you'll convert it to a T56 after the turbo setup is drivable?

I am really hoping by next spring it will be done. Ultimately by the m&g. As for the 6 speed swap probably next summer. At the latest that winter. All depends on how money goes as the wedding will be approaching fast (Sept 2016)

[birdie2000]

While tempting, you'd have to tune for the stall as well. Only way I'd consider it is if you bought a used one that you can use both N/A and with the turbo, assuming you could get it installed soon as to enjoy it this year before winter. Buying a good quality used unit would allow you to at least sell it for not much of a loss, except for the price of a mail order tune.

Gears, I personally am sticking with the stock 3.42. I feel like that would be the best option if you're sticking with a 10 bolt, but I'm not terribly well versed in turbo gear selection. Just seemed like the safest choice without too many trade-offs.

[white97z28]

So your keeping it now?

[mcalus]

While tempting, you'd have to tune for the stall as well. Only way I'd consider it is if you bought a used one that you can use both N/A and with the turbo, assuming you could get it installed soon as to enjoy it this year before winter. Buying a good quality used unit would allow you to at least sell it for not much of a loss, except for the price of a mail order tune.

Gears, I personally am sticking with the stock 3.42. I feel like that would be the best option if you're sticking with a 10 bolt, but I'm not terribly well versed in turbo gear selection. Just seemed like the safest choice without too many trade-offs.

I agree that the stock 3.42s are good for a turbo setup but how about 2.73s? Lol why did gm put theses in anything! I'm leaning towards keeping the stock stall. Seems like wasted money imo.

So your keeping it now?

Let's put it this way, if I get a cash offer I can't refuse I'll be selling it. In the meantime, turbo is going in!

[mcalus]

Back at it messing with the color some more today so I can spray the spoiler (finally).

Couple of questions:
What all can I leave in the car (suspension wise) when I swap out the k member? I plan on leaving the motor in and supported by a strut tower brace (should be sufficient right?). Also where to I attach the chain to on the motor? Holes on the front of the head? How about the rear? Do I need to do the rear since the cross brace should still be installed under the trans?

I'll be doing it on my buddy's hoist and don't want to tie it up for longer than needed.

I'll also be tapping the oil pan at the same time. What fitting do I need? Would it come with the oil lines?

[Lucky SOB]

Motor mounts need to be unbolted. Will have to remove the AC compressor to get the passenger side bolt out. Put it in from back to front when you reinstall. Unbolt the bottom of the shocks from the a-arms. Going to have to remove the ball joint from the bottom of the spindle I believe... Id have to look again. Unbolt the steering shaft. Then you'll need to swap the steering rack over.

Bolting the cherry picker chain to the front of the heads is fine, and yes just leave the trans mount connected.