Dan's 1997 Camaro, aka project "NYTRDR"

[JoeliusZ28]

Remove all of the BS and get it tuned out after the header install. Youve probably got a faulty O2 sensor as well. They may not even be possible to remove from your manifolds at this point id just let it be. If you get coated headers, make sure you heat cycle them a few times before installing new sensors, fresh coating can kill oxygen sensors.

[DanDalessandro]

Remove all of the BS and get it tuned out after the header install. Youve probably got a faulty O2 sensor as well. They may not even be possible to remove from your manifolds at this point id just let it be. If you get coated headers, make sure you heat cycle them a few times before installing new sensors, fresh coating can kill oxygen sensors.

Joel sorry, but by remove all of the BS, do you mean remove the AIR, EGR, all that yadayada. I'm just confused. Also, the pre-Cat O2 sensors are new, but they are not the ones throwing the codes. Haven't had time to look at the post cat ones yet, taking summer classes. Thanks again, can't thank you or anybody else enough.

And yet I have another question.
Whenever I hit the brakes hard, the pedal like clicks. It sounds crazy I know. But when it does happen the brake light comes on, and stays on until I push the pedal in a little. Is just the ABS kicking on, or just a sign I need to do some brake work? I know some cars have a sensor that when the brake pads get low, it'll throw a light on the dash. I don't know if the F-Body have this as well.
Thanks ya'll!

[JoeliusZ28]

Yes thats what i meant. What kind of oxygen sensors did you use and how are you sure they arent the problem?

And is the click kind of a springy/boing sound? If so... Brake booster. Just replaced mine last year. Surprised its throwing a light though but maybe 97s are different. I dont think there are any electronics connected to my brake system other than the abs module.

Edit: sorry i wrote master cylinder but i meant booster. And i do remember now LS cars have electronics on the master, so it still could be a master if electronics are picking up on the problem. Im not sure which version of the master 97s had. A faulty master will usually bleed down with consistent pressure on the pedal.

[DanDalessandro]

Thanks for clearing it up for me!
I put Bosch O2 sensors in both of my shorty headers after a couple heat cycles. Also, I just ran the codes on it. P0141, P0400, P1441. P0141 is driver side O2 sensor after the cat which just says a heater circuit problem: Open or short to ground in the wiring harness, O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance, O2 heater element resistance is high, internal short or open in the heater element. Got that after a quick google search. No codes showed up for the pre-cat sensors. P0400 is just egr malfunction balogna. P1441 is evap flow during non purge, I have the fix for it, just have to replace the solenoid thingy. The post cat O2 sensors haven't been changed as far as I know. I haven't changed them. With long tubes, you only will have 2 O2 sensors, just the ones in the headers for Air/fuel ratios correct?

And yes, a boing/spring sound is exactly how i would describe it. Looking at the service history I don't see anything dealing with master cylinder or brake booster. The look fairly original too. My car I believe is a late 97 build, and with GM changing the dash and all that in 97, that could have been one of the things added. I'm really not noticing any braking performance that is lost. I'll also look into the brake pedal depressing with constant pressure on it.
Thanks a ton too.

[JoeliusZ28]

sounds like you need a new booster, its very possible the electronics in the master can detect a fault in both. Mine made the sound for a while, the pedal feel gradually got worse over time to the point in became a problem. It would do it the worst when you quickly stabbed it. Its a rubber boot inside the booster than has an airleak/crack.

BTW that thing is a real joy to replace too. They used ultra locking nuts on the firewall mounts with extremely long studs, and removing them is a PITA since its way up under the dash. you will need to remove your driver seat to get any kind of comfortable access to them.

[DanDalessandro]

well sheeet lol. I'm going to be doing a brake overhaul this winter. So I'll hold off on it and just replace the Master cylinder too. If it gets worse, then I'll do it right away. But for the mean time, I think I'll be okay.
Thanks for the tip too. I honestly like working on the car only if it's not the cooling system

[JoeliusZ28]

Sounds good, i am curious though is there an electrical connector on your master cylinder? I have a brake light on on my dashboard now and it appears the only thing connected to it is the parking brake. (Abs has its own light).

[94_LT1_Z28]

Sounds good, i am curious though is there an electrical connector on your master cylinder? I have a brake light on on my dashboard now and it appears the only thing connected to it is the parking brake. (Abs has its own light).

Not to hijack the thread but Joel, have you tried cleaning the connector for the parking brake? I had the same issue and got a lil sandpaper to take off some corrosion and Boom Goes the Dynamite, it was gone


Also to un-hijack, eBay headers, while cheap and appealing, are not worth the headache to get them to fit 100%, and the stainless quality is a joke

[JoeliusZ28]

Not to hijack the thread but Joel, have you tried cleaning the connector for the parking brake? I had the same issue and got a lil sandpaper to take off some corrosion and Boom Goes the Dynamite, it was gone


Also to un-hijack, eBay headers, while cheap and appealing, are not worth the headache to get them to fit 100%, and the stainless quality is a joke

Nope, but thank you for the tip Im just beginning to look into troubleshooting that problem!

[DanDalessandro]

No plan for eBay headers. I bought junk one time and that was the last time. Pacesetters is my choice it looks like.

I'm going to check to see if there are any electrical connectors when I get home too. This car has surprised me many times, I don't think I'll be surprised again lol

[DanDalessandro]

No electrical connectors going to the master cylinder by the looks of it.
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It's weird.

IMG_20150319_164200_971.jpg
So I'm look at this picture on my phone right. It's from behind the gauges. Does that show the date the car was built? Because it says the year is 1995 on it and my car is a 97 unless it was just done wrong. Vin says it's a 97. Looks like just an error.
The vin can tell me when the car was built correct? Curious.

[JoeliusZ28]

I think the sensor would be on the other side of the master facing the fender.

The date could be for when that specific part was produced.

[MP81]

Yeah, that's just the date of the part, not the car. Rare for them to vary that much, though sometimes the assembly plant "finds" trailers of parts they "forgot" about - and that can make things very bad.

[DanDalessandro]

I think the sensor would be on the other side of the master facing the fender.

The date could be for when that specific part was produced.

Just went out to check, didn't see any sensors.

Yeah, that's just the date of the part, not the car. Rare for them to vary that much, though sometimes the assembly plant "finds" trailers of parts they "forgot" about - and that can make things very bad.

Ah okay, that was my second thought.

Puzzling I'd say so indeed. I'll do some research on it. See what happens.

[JoeliusZ28]

Interesting, i wonder where the brake light is getting its information from then.