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"Shadowfax" - Jeremy's 15th Anv. Trans Am
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[MENTION=3564]hoogiesngrinderz[/MENTION] if I have a set of heads milled, does it affect the intake at all?
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well.. I actually found a Machine Shop with a pretty decent reputation that has a horrible website who is I am in contact with right now and I think I have them convinced to let me rework their website for trade on all my cylinder heads work.. so if thats the case.. it'll save me probably $700-$800.. so that will free up money that I had for the heads to do the pistons
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This is the type of statement that causes any set budget to go right out of the window.Originally posted by Jdseibe View PostI was hoping to leave the short block alone.. but if I do this thing.. I might as well do it right!
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the more I have been thinking about this.. the more I believe you are right on changing out the heads.. so if anyone has a set of 799 or 243 heads let me know! haha..
also if I want to bump my compression by using flat top pistons.. any suggestions on brand/type etc? I was hoping to leave the short block alone.. but if I do this thing.. I might as well do it right!
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Yup, .020 mill will put you near the original compression or you can use 4.8 flat top pistons.
862 heads have the small 1.89" intake valves, bumping them up to the 2.00" valve is just another added cost.
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It's a very popular cam, I have the older Texas Racing 224 and really like it. The TR224 has a less aggressive ramp rate than the TSP 224r, which uses XER lobe design. Get some good springs, Comp 918 minimum. PRC and BTR springs seem to be very popular right now as well.
To get my 862 heads milled, ports milled flush with the valve seats, and a complete valve job set me back $450. They were really nice and fresh, but you can find a better flowing used set of 243/799 for that.
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ok small update..
I have the 5.3 on the engine stand right now.. I decided to pull off the exhaust manifolds to start.. remember the guy said a bolt was missing? well he was telling the truth! a bolt was actually missing and not broke off! fast forward to last night.. I spray all the exhaust manifold bolts with some wd40 and let it sit for awhile.. then I decide to break the bolts loose.. the very first on I do (drivers side far rear bolt) I barely put any torque behind it and SNAP! breaks it right off.. ugh.. this isn't looking good for me.. against my better judgement I decided to even lighter try on the next one.. and phew! to my relief ALL the other bolts on the drivers side of the engine come out no problem.. I get to take a closer look at the snapped bolt.. and it busted down inside the cylinder head.. so no possibility of me having a nut or something welded to the end of it
well.. I decide to move onto the other side.. I start from the front of the engine and work my way back.. I get to the very last bolt again.. and SNAP! that one breaks too!
CRAP! now I am really pissed at this point.. but at least on this side it looks like the bolt snapped off at the head of the bolt and has a lot to grab onto. well the passenger side has the dipstick tube also.. so I try to wiggle it out of its hole.. and seriously.. my luck cant get any worse.. the tube snaps too.... and its about flush with the engine block..... ok now at this point I'm fuming and decide to not work on it anymore for the day..
so after reading all of that I have a few questions haha!
1) does anyone know of someone who could rebuild the heads for me for a good deal? I would need the bolts removed, probably have the heads milled, valve job and probably have the springs upgraded.
2) I havent pulled the pan yet.. but on the inside of the engine how far down does the dipstick tube go into the engine.. should I be able to push it out from the inside?
3) I have been looking at cam selections and was wondering what everyone's thoughts were on the Texas Speed cams? specifically something like the 224r? recommendations on decent springs to run would be appreciated too!
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Just switch over to the DBC (drive by cable) throttle body, I have a spare down in my parts room has your name on it! [MENTION=892]Jdseibe[/MENTION]
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I just noticed that it's from an 03 Tahoe. You will need to switch over to DBC or Hawks makes a mount for the electronic pedal.
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So I picked up the 5.3 today.. Its in pretty decent shape on the outside.. Nothing looks too bad.. I'll he tearing it down soon! Wahoo!
On a side note.. I have 4 guys in line to checkout the old 350! Things are happening just as I was hoping!
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Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View PostI do have a LS1 intake and fuel rails, the rails were painted blue at some point and the crossover tube has a dent in it. Not 100% sure if I want to sell the intake...might put it on the Camaro when I sell it and keep the LS6.
I also have a LS3/L99 alternator mount, which allows you to use the truck water pump and crank pulley. It mounts low, may or may not clear the steering box.
Holley makes a high mount alternator bracket which looks really nice, but it requires a spacer...which I happen to have
The spacer kit includes parts for both AC and alternator brackets, we only used the AC stuff.
well let me know on the intake and alternator mount, I'm deleting A/C anyways so no worries there for me! haha
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I do have a LS1 intake and fuel rails, the rails were painted blue at some point and the crossover tube has a dent in it. Not 100% sure if I want to sell the intake...might put it on the Camaro when I sell it and keep the LS6.
I also have a LS3/L99 alternator mount, which allows you to use the truck water pump and crank pulley. It mounts low, may or may not clear the steering box.
Holley makes a high mount alternator bracket which looks really nice, but it requires a spacer...which I happen to have
The spacer kit includes parts for both AC and alternator brackets, we only used the AC stuff.
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That wasn't supposed to send haha.. Any intakes that'll fit under the hood? Same thing for front accessories?
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