Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
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I grabbed one of these to throw on it when its parked. I'm hoping since the only electronics i have are the windows, heads/tails, and stuff to make it run that this has no problem supporting it all.
Just ordered a new set of ARH headers and catted Y pipe since I managed to crush one of the primaries on my QTPs at the end of the season. Went with 1 3/4 primaries and a 3.5" outlet on the Y pipe. I'm hoping it picks up a bit of power since my current Y is trash.
Comparison of the ARHs vs the old QTPs. The QTPs have a much straighter shot out of the car and weld finishing is nicer at the collectors. Might fix them and do a dyno comparison at a later date.
Spent the last few days looking at HP Tuners vs EFI Live and I still can't wrap my head around which one would be better for my application. Car is a 98 so free tuning with EFI Live. However, I am planning a flex fuel conversion which would require a Tahoe PCM (2004?) at the very least. Not sure if I would need a custom OS or not. EFI can rewrite the correct VIN number into the computer but HP Tuners cannot. They don't match right now anyway and at least right now I have no need to pass an inspection. It also looks like I can wire the RS232 output of EFI to my external data logger which would be really nice for analysis of autocross runs. I don't think that's supported by HPT.
As for the flex fuel conversion, it seems to be pretty easy.
Tahoe PCM ($100)
42lb injectors ($100 used)
Taurus flex fuel sensor (free-$75)
Racetronix pump ($220)
let's say another $100 for various fittings and other random items to make it work
Seems reasonable, and this motor REALLY needs a fresh tune anyway.
Last edited by landstuhltaylor; January 18th, 2017, 03:13 PM.
Just ordered HP Tuners. My plan is to do some logging on the existing setup, then do the Express van PCM swap with the 42lb injectors and dial it in. Last step will be swapping the pump and tuning the E85 and flex tables.
Side note: Strano is supplying the HP Tuners and was able to beat everyone else's advertised pricing. I'm honestly not sure what his normal price structure is on it's since it's not listed, but if you have a good history with him I'm sure he would work with you to take something off.
Last edited by landstuhltaylor; February 4th, 2017, 09:12 PM.
The E85 swap is about to get started. Ordered some 525cc injectors from Fuel Injector Clinic, IRRC the work out to ~58lb at our fuel pressure. Should be able to support future upgrades up to about 550whp on that fuel. Also ordered a flex fuel sensors along with fittings to run it right before the fuel rails. After some research it seems the 02 Tahoe PCM is the only DBC computer that has the flex spark tables unlocked in HP Tuners so I need to track one of those down. It's been more difficult than I thought locally.
Almost 100% finished wiring in the 411 PCM. Just need to ground out the clutch position pin on the PCM and then physically insert the alcohol sensor into the fuel line. I was hoping to start building the new file for it but I forgot the interface in the car.
Something tells me Silverados aren't legal for ESP...
You get what you paid for. Only thing better than these would be Injector Dynamics but they were four times the price and don't make anything this small. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
I really haven't touched the car at all lately, but it's absolutely 100% dead at work here and it's allowed me to come to some realizations.
The car won it's first national event last month, bumping up into the next class (just short of tube-framed cars) and still winning by 3.3 seconds over a ~90 second course. That came with two free Hoosiers and $100 worth of Hawk certificates. Still, I'm not really satisfied where the car is setup wise.
All of last year I was fighting terminal understeer in corners which has led me down the path of running the back of the car very stiff (1200/550 springs with 35 solid/22 hollow full stiff bars). Unfortunately this means the car just flat out doesn't work over large bumps/cracks or on low grips sites. This isn't really an issue at most of the high-grip and relatively smooth concrete at most national events but it sucks for locals. The shocks do an excellent job of absorbing all the smaller ripples in the pavement that the Konis could never hide but there is only so much they can do with such a high spring rate. No complaints about the front but in order to make the car turn the rear is running a crazy high rate. For perspective the front ride frequency is 2.2Hz and the rear is 3.0Hz. Most firm riding stock sports cars are only about 1.0Hz.
Initially the plan was to switch to a hollow front 35mm bar and drop back down to a 400lb spring (same 2.2Hz as the front), tuning out the understeer with Watts link adjustments. However, I'm not sure the reduction in front roll stiffness would be enough to cover up a 30% reduction in rear spring rate before I run out of adjustment on the Watts. Come to my realization of the day: I'm still running stock LCA geometry in the rear. They are pointed sky high at the axles and leading to significant amounts of roll understeer when cornering. This would explain why this car has never wanted to turn and I've had to resort to quite unorthodox settings in the back when compared to just about every other car. A friend had previously steered me away from them as they made the car too loose on corner exit, however he didn't have the geometry of the decoupled torque arm working for him. I've basically been shooting myself in the foot for a full season running a compromised setup to cover for a geometry problem. Hopefully between the new square 18x12 wheels w/335s and fixing the suspension the car should get much faster as well as easier to drive and more consistent over different surfaces.
I won't have the new setup on the car for the Match Tour in Indiana this weekend, but hopefully I can get it on there in time for the double header Match/Champ Tours in Bristol over the 4th of July week. Going to need some time to test and practice before Nationals later in the summer.
The car won it's first national event last month, bumping up into the next class (just short of tube-framed cars) and still winning by 3.3 seconds over a ~90 second course. That came with two free Hoosiers and $100 worth of Hawk certificates.
This is why what most people tell you is the right offset...isn't
Update: Went down for a double event in Bristol over the holiday. Won the Champ Tour on the weekend which means I've got 5 free 335/30R18 Hoosiers this season. Unfortunately the ABS problems that have been plaguing the car all year ruined the Match Tour outing. The upside of that is that even with the issues, I was able to keep up with a multi-time champion in another car on dirty runs. My car does not work well at all on super bumpy lots like this because of the VERY stiff concrete setup, so to still run good scratch times against a ~580whp GT500 with two big digs on the course and really bumpy pavement bodes well. Pulling the rear bumpstops off the car completely helped and it's been putting down power since going to the new Strano adjustable front bar and softening up the rear bar.
Spent the rest of this week chasing down wiring. ABS INOP light has been 100% caused by a bad female terminal in the C200 connector under the dash. Can't communicate with the EBCM yet but I have a solid connection from it's terminal to the OBD-2 port in the module is verified good. Terminal there looks like crap though so the plan is to replace those and hopefully that will solve the communication problem. Likely cause of the hot ABS failures is either from that or the rear speed sensor that was covered in debris from the last Auburn diff explosion and had a chunk taken out of it.
Outside observers has said the car is visibly making more power than last year, comes off the corner harder. That should put it at ~380whp and 3160 lbs, so about a 3310 lb race weight. Still have not touched the fuel tank. Highest sustained G seen this season mid-corner has been 1.58.
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