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  • Pour a few concrete pads with some big ass threaded inserts and bolt the damn thing to the ground.
    Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

    "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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    • Congratulations on the new R&R trailer. I'm sure you will be happy with it. And, with a super long service life, and high retained value, it's hard to go wrong. I love mine.

      Years ago, my Dad parked our travel trailer with it hitched to a post. He sunk a piece of 4" well casing several feet into the ground with cement to anchor it. Topped with a well cap, with a hole drilled in the center and a hitch ball inserted in it. With a strong padlock on the hitch, it was a good deterrent to theft.
      DynoDave
      POCI # 72200



      1988 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

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      • Originally posted by DynoDave View Post
        Congratulations on the new R&R trailer. I'm sure you will be happy with it. And, with a super long service life, and high retained value, it's hard to go wrong. I love mine.

        Years ago, my Dad parked our travel trailer with it hitched to a post. He sunk a piece of 4" well casing several feet into the ground with cement to anchor it. Topped with a well cap, with a hole drilled in the center and a hitch ball inserted in it. With a strong padlock on the hitch, it was a good deterrent to theft.
        Thats an Interesting idea! wouldnt you have to move the trailer by hand though? Or was it so low to the ground that the trailer could pass over top when connected to a vehicle?
        -Joel
        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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        • When Dad did it, it was as much for security from theft as it was security from rolling down hill! This was 30 years ago, Dad was still a younger man, and he had 3 sons to help him. It was a 15' Playmor travel trailer, and he didn't want it stored on the driveway. So we would push it by hand onto a slab next to the garage. But that slab ran downhill. So she went in nose first, and the pipe was an anchor to prevent it from rolling further down hill, as well as a lock. Since it went in nose first, the pipe could be left in place, full height, and permanently anchored.

          When I do mine, I'll be working on my own, except for maybe a little help from my wife. So man-handling that 20' trailer is not really an option. I'm hoping to find a pipe that will slip nicely inside another pipe. The outer will stay in the ground, anchored in cement. The other will slip inside. Inner pipe removed, I will be able to back the trailer into place, plus a few inches past the in-ground tube. Drop the inner pipe with with the ball into place, trailer tongue jack on a wheel, roll it forward a few inches onto the ball, and viola. Once locked, you'd have to defeat the lock, or lift the tongue high enough to get the inner pipe out of the outer. And that won't be possible with a 20' trailer with a beaver tail. Nothing is 100% burglar proof. But if I make it enough of a PITA to steal, then they will move on.
          DynoDave
          POCI # 72200



          1988 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

          Comment


          • Originally posted by DynoDave View Post
            When Dad did it, it was as much for security from theft as it was security from rolling down hill! This was 30 years ago, Dad was still a younger man, and he had 3 sons to help him. It was a 15' Playmor travel trailer, and he didn't want it stored on the driveway. So we would push it by hand onto a slab next to the garage. But that slab ran downhill. So she went in nose first, and the pipe was an anchor to prevent it from rolling further down hill, as well as a lock. Since it went in nose first, the pipe could be left in place, full height, and permanently anchored.

            When I do mine, I'll be working on my own, except for maybe a little help from my wife. So man-handling that 20' trailer is not really an option. I'm hoping to find a pipe that will slip nicely inside another pipe. The outer will stay in the ground, anchored in cement. The other will slip inside. Inner pipe removed, I will be able to back the trailer into place, plus a few inches past the in-ground tube. Drop the inner pipe with with the ball into place, trailer tongue jack on a wheel, roll it forward a few inches onto the ball, and viola. Once locked, you'd have to defeat the lock, or lift the tongue high enough to get the inner pipe out of the outer. And that won't be possible with a 20' trailer with a beaver tail. Nothing is 100% burglar proof. But if I make it enough of a PITA to steal, then they will move on.
            thats a genius design. I'm probably going to steal that
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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            • The trailer or the idea? Lol
              When in doubt, Whip it out !

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              • Originally posted by farmington View Post
                The trailer or the idea? Lol
                I think we know the answer to that question is "yes".

                Atrus likes this.
                Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

                Comment


                • I mean, if he's giving me permission to steal the trailer...
                  -Joel
                  1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                  1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                  WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
                    I mean, if he's giving me permission to steal the trailer...
                    Sure sounds like the best test of security...
                    Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                    "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

                    Comment


                    • Steal away (the idea). Dad would be happy to see someone else using it.

                      Dad was a pretty creative guy, and a model do-it-yourselfer. I grew up in a house he built. This is a guy who after the Navy during the Korean War went into the insurance business, and had worked for a theater chain before the service. So no building experience. Aside from the poured cement foundation, her did EVERYTHING else. Rough construction, plumbing, electrical, finish construction, roof, etc. Framed, poured, and finished the cement for the driveway, and a later addition. Built the garage, then later re-roofed it, while raising the walls 4 foot or so, and then extending it off the back. Ended up with a commercial door, and space for a 30+ foot motorhome, 2 daily drivers, and other storage and workspace. Added an addition on the house that was maybe 1/3 of the total footage, again from the ground up, including fireplace chimney, huge bay window, deck, etc. While growing up, I watched he rebuild the in-line 6 in the family 2nd car, an early Ford Falcon. He was just great at resolving issues like this, and loved doing it.

                      I unfortunately inherited NONE of this skill, confidence or lack of fear from him!
                      DynoDave
                      POCI # 72200



                      1988 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

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                      • Started moving by ordering more parts today.

                        Throwout bearing has been sourced from Modern Driveline. Unfortunately I have to use a hybrid of two slaves to make it work. How did I think $700 on a slave was reasonable? A Mcleod 8617 bearing will hopefully take up the slack on the input shaft length.

                        Also ordered a 3/4" Tilton master to replace my 7/8" one with the idea that it gives me a more progressive engagement. I'm also switching to EBC Blue pads on the front as according to Strano they have a better feel and longer life than the DTC30s. Other than that it's been random hardware odds and ends to make things work. I'm hoping to mate the trans to the engine next week, replace the wiper motor, and then hopefully have things ready to go back together by the end of this month.

                        After that I'll need to rewire the flex sensor and start tuning. Once that's done I'll worry about setting up the T2R diff that is sitting on the shelf and install it as time permits.
                        1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator

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