Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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I guess i can see where that would help with traction , but at the same time when my car stretched the bolt holes in a stock torque arm the result was a ujoint cap spitting out at a buck 15 when the axle rotated forward under braking. So seems like its a good idea for autocross but high speed would concern me having it intentionally rotating around.
I guess i can see where that would help with traction , but at the same time when my car stretched the bolt holes in a stock torque arm the result was a ujoint cap spitting out at a buck 15 when the axle rotated forward under braking. So seems like its a good idea for autocross but high speed would concern me having it intentionally rotating around.
I would guess yours moved more than this will. The zip tie in the above photo is how much it should be moving.
Yeah, no way to really know without measuring i guess. Mine couldnt have rotated that far. The holes were clearly stretched but its not like it was completely flopping around under the car.
I'm starting to make some real progress on this again. The dash is removed and most of the main harness is free. I have to figure out how to remove the bundle going to the firewall but after that it's just pull the HVAC and insulation. The seam sealer along the side of both floors has hardened and is peeling off to reveal some rust. Luckily some screwdriver exploration has revealed that the rust has not made it to the rockers, just the floor pan as it meets the rocker. I'll be bending up some sheet and replacing those sections after I spend a few hours practicing. As good a time as any to learn. Once that's done I'm on the home stretch with the difficult part just being remembering in what order everything goes back in.
Finished completely gutting the car and found some unwanted surprises. For one I've apparently lost the door keys for this shell either in the house or garage. No harness in the car and no keys means the only way to open the hatch was to unbolt the latch. Unfortunately I dropped it and let it slam shut on the lock lever which shattered the back glass. I do still have the extra hatch but it's red instead of black.
I also found that the upper left corner of the firewall box has rotted and needs to be patched. All the seam sealer in the car is completely shot which is what's caused the rust issues along the edge of the floors. A few friends came over to help with cutting out the cancer and fabricating the patches. Somebody had some fun at the factory while the car was being assembled.
Just got word my decoupled torque arm is ready to ship. I also gave Global West a call about their upper control arms. These have the benefit of having an improved ball joint angle as well as additional negative camber available. I should be able to get -2.0 to -2.7 depending on how this shell does. On their website they only list the arms with a Delrin bushing which has a thicker sleeve than stock (aluminum, has to be thicker than the stock steel for strength) making it illegal for SCCA SP rules. Luckily they have a drag version not listed on their site which uses a plastic bushing that is legal as well as cheaper. Now I just need to figure out what to do with LCA bushings and shock mounts.
Its almost like I have some idea of what I'm doing. Biggest patch on the passenger side is in and so is the tunnel. I've got a few more small pieces and then the firewall but the hood release, then I'm done.
Pulled the clutch apart and inspected it. The disc itself looks fine (Luk) but the pressure plate is in bad shape and the flywheel has some awful looking hot spots. I have to decide if I want to do the clutch and aluminum flywheel now or wait until I pull it apart again to do the trans. It won't be driven much this year either way.
Rear end is in. Decided I'm going to wait to install the decoupled torque arm until I get it to Ohio to save myself a few hours of work. Starting to feel the time crunch.
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