Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us!
How did it go? Was it as intimidating as everyone makes it out go be? Been debating on doing my own too.
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It was quite the pain in the ass. I'm not very good at reading the paint so the depth gauge helped a lot. Probably the biggest pain was with the solid pinion spacer, I noticed that if I changed pinion shims it also wanted a different spacer which ended up doubling any changes I made. The next time I do it will be pretty painless, but I felt the learning curve was very steep. Definitely tons of wasted time just figuring how to do the things I knew I needed to do and frustration crept in. I honestly don't see how it's possible to do the job without a press and the correct bearing puller unless you are one of those people that throws the stock pinion shim on it and hopes for the best.
Thanks. Are there any steps/tools that are 10-bolt specific or is this stuff pretty universal? I have a friend who is an engineer for American Axle and in the process learned how to set up a ring gear in some test situations, but never done it on this axle. How much would you say you've spent just on tools?
The bearing puller that won't damage anything was $270 from PEM and the pinion depth tool was another $300, both can be used on just about anything. Any other tools can be rented from Autozone. If I were to do this all over again I would probably expect 3-4 hours if doing a gear change. If you reuse the gears that are in it the process is much, much easier and faster.
This might be a dumb noob question, but i've got one of those covers to put on with the load bolts like that one, how hard is the install? i know putting the cover on is just swapping them but what about putting the load bolts in?
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If you come across a cobra in the wild, wipe it off and apologize.
Finger tighten till they touch, then torque to 5ft/lbs. Thanks for that tip!
Lock nuts are then either 20 or 25 ftlbs I believe.
Rear end is in. Still need to finish the brakes and install the sway bar. Going to tack weld the weight jacker in place on the axle once it's back on the ground.
Welded the sway bar reinforcement brackets in and painted everything I've been working on. Also installed a new clutch line and trouble shooted some issues I've had with suppliers on the brake lines and rear bar.
Spent a few minutes trying to figure out where this connector went until I realized it probably had something to do with all that extra room from getting rid of the AC.
Question, has anyone bent the sway bar brackets before just from track use? The only time I've ever bent/broken one of those was when I curbed my front end.
Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere.
For six days work may be done, but on the seventh day, you shall have a track day, a Sabbath of competing, to time the FIREBIRD; whoever does any work on it shall be put in last place.
Yes, quite a few. I know of one person who had them last a full season of autocross with a big 36.5mm hollow bar, but they did eventually bend. Easy enough to find in a junkyard though.
Getting close to a test drive. ATI underdrive pulley should go on tomorrow and then it's just bleeding the brakes, finishing the fuel harness and setting front toe. I'm going to try the 4"OD Magnaflow muffler but I will probably also pick up a multi-core XR1 to bring to events just in case. The last picture is the 315 on the front with the wrong spacers. The right one should bring it under the fender another .3". Maybe I should convert these wheels to 17x12 and use 335s....
I'd love to say I'm making real progress but sadly that hasn't been the case. For the last few weeks Hellwig has been completely unable to supply sway bar body side brackets that are actually manufactured correctly. After no response this time around I had to just waste my time to drill the holes out myself so that they actually work. It doesn't bother me that supposedly a plasma tip blows out and makes some bad parts. What does bother me is when they personally contact me and say they will send a new set and that they will personally inspect them, yet when I get the parts they have the exact same problem. They also sent two of the wrong size bolts, but at least they managed to rectify that quickly. I've also been having some issues with the front bar, but that's just due to old crusty threads and nobody elses fault.
On top of that the brakes have been a pain in the ass. Driver side caliper had the bleeder screw seize in it. Went to pick up some new screws and tried to remove the old one today, only to have it snap off. A trip to NAPA yielded two new front calipers, but the passenger side caliper has the wrong threads in the mounting bracket bolt holes and will not work. Going to have to hope the one they bring in from another store doesn't end up having the same problem.
On the bright side I do have a clutch pedal stop in the car now. If only all the other dumb shit stops getting in the way.
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