Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us!
I have the passenger fender off the car in your garage. My red Z is likely sold, it's up to the possible new owner if he wants them red or black. (I'd lean towards red myself)
I'm getting a parts list together and should be pulling the trigger soon. I am curious if anyone has an LS engine lift plate that I could borrow/rent. This will make putting the new mounts and rack in so much easier.
First order of business is some generic metal etch and POR15. I'll be grabbing the Prothane motor and trans mounts as well as a Rack Doctor steering rack to replace my broken one. I've decided I'll be completely ditching the HVAC and making my own block off plate to save some cash as well. One last thing I'm thinking about is a solid steering rack bushing, but I'm still on the fence about if it's worth it or not at this time.
If anyone needs interior parts I still have just about everything other than rear seats, headliner and door panels.
Leather seats? I need a charcoal upper for my driver seat.
Also need some charcoal hardtop sun visors. A nicer dash pad wouldn't hurt, either. Looks like some dummy epoxied a radar detector to my dash pad at some point
Leather seats? I need a charcoal upper for my driver seat.
Also need some charcoal hardtop sun visors. A nicer dash pad wouldn't hurt, either. Looks like some dummy epoxied a radar detector to my dash pad at some point
I have two sets of seats, both Trans Am seats. One has good quality leather but needs to be dyed as the color is fading away, while the other set needs to be completely recovered. My dash pad is junk and so were the sun visors. That's pretty much everything that I don't have aside from the sail panels.
I keep going back and forth over how I want to rebuild the front end. The problem is I'm trying to keep the budget down while keeping in mind that at some point down the line (probably 5+ years) everything is going to be tossed in the garbage.
1. Prothane poly front control arm bushings. The caster bushing will fail sooner rather than later and there is a small chance it takes the control arm with it. Upper mounts should have no issues. Less play in most areas but no gains in camber without slotting the K member. $40
2. All Moog everything. Slop everywhere but they should last a bit longer than poly. $70
3. Moog caster bushing with everything else being Prothane. $80
4. Some combination of offset delrin upper bushings or the Global West delalum kit. At that point though the GW upper arms are pretty tempting once the ball joints are factored in, with the bonus of more camber AND more caster. $165+ with Moog lowers, and then later on I would be tempted even more to convert the stock lower arms with the GW spherical kit.
do you have a write-up with pics/info on that last option?
FWIW I have my camber maxed with stock components and I think its plenty. The turn-in is so aggressive on my car i think it can spin itself 180 on command if you want it to, I've considered reducing it slightly but what fun would that be?
The offset bushings were a Strano offering that have since been discontinued. There is at least one new set floating around over on FRRAX though. Basically you would install them like a normal bushing except align them so that the offset will give you more camber, then drill them for a set screw to hold them in place. Usually good for -2.3 degrees or so on a car lowered 1.2".
Got the dash out today, what a rats nest that is. It looks like I can easily drop 50lbs out once I gut everything behind there too. I'm also leaning towards pulling the side windows and regulator assemblies which should be good for another 45.
I found my solution to control arm bushings. Moog has recently come out with a ball and socket caster bushing that should both provide better performance and durability than the stock replacements. All other front bushings will be replaced with the previously mentioned Prothane 7-227 bushing kit.
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357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
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