'93 Formula "Sleeper"

[93formulalt1]

Got the SLP 2OTL installed today, discovered I need to replace the header gaskets, so I went and picked up a new set of header bolts and lock washers. I don't think we used lock washers last time, just the factory manifold bolts. When I replace the heads, I'll be getting a set of locking header bolts, but for now, I just need to stop the exhaust leak, it's driving me nuts!

I will admit, the SLP exhaust is a night/day difference from the Flowmaster. Sounds better than the Flowmaster in every way, WOT, idle, cruising speeds, it's just all in all a better exhaust. Had the shop move my cutout back so it's in the gap under the rear passenger seat, now I have enough room to bolt up my e-cutout. Also had everything from the ORY back welded. Only clamps on the exhaust are at the back where the tips clamp onto the SLP muffler, and at the front, where the ORY clamps to the collectors on the headers. Didn't want to have that welded, because I'd just have to cut it again when I go to replace the heads.

I will say, the 2OTL is a little louder than I expected. Not bad, about on par with the Flowmaster as far as noise level goes (maybe a little louder at idle). I haven't really beaten on the car at all, just one quick WOT run to hear the difference. This exhaust is awesome. The rasp is gone, which is amazing in itself.

[93formulalt1]

I would echo what everyone else is saying about the cam except for you im not going to. My best recommendation for you nick is to save all engine work other than a stock rebuild for the very last. Get the rest of the car where it needs to be. I may be different than many people, but id rather have something nice than something fast, unless its an autocross/drag beater. Tuning a modified engine can be frustrating enough for many people to give up entirely, and thats easy to do if you arent happy with the rest of the car before you even start.

Honestly, I tend to agree. We are going to swap the heads on Sunday, I have everything I need with the exception of fluids and a few drain pans, but I'll get that all picked up on the way to the garage where I'll be working on it. I'm not going to do anything outrageous to it for now, I really don't want to rush things, so we'll just put the stock heads on it, taking care to not over-tighten the spark plugs. Haha

Ill probably be putting some miles on it next week to make sure everything is good to go, and after I'm sure she can handle longer trips, I'll drive it to work once or twice. After that, I'll have no problem driving it to Baker's on the 5th.


Still need to pick up a few things in order to make the head swap go as well as I want it to, including new head bolts, RTV, thread sealer, and new valve springs. Going to install the 1.6RR's and Taylor OTVC wires upon reassembly as well, although I may have to put off doing the head swap another week so I can get the parts ordered to do everything I want to do. Hopefully I can get both of my Canton Racing valve covers installed without damaging the gaskets this time, I tore one of them on my first attempt, that right side valve cover is a bear.

Any other suggestions? I have new header bolts and lock washers already, hopefully they will save me from blowing out the gaskets prematurely again. . . Lol

[meissen]

Also had everything from the ORY back welded. Only clamps on the exhaust are at the back where the tips clamp onto the SLP muffler, and at the front, where the ORY clamps to the collectors on the headers. Didn't want to have that welded, because I'd just have to cut it again when I go to replace the heads.

As someone who spent two days fighting to install my hooker exhaust because of all the damn welds, I hope you never have to remove that exhaust. You won't be able to remove it without dropping your rear end or cutting the exhaust where it goes up and over the rear end. Welds sound good until you need to do adjustments or changes, then you're royally ****ed. I have no less than 8 clamps on my current exhaust

[DETROITMUSCLE]

v-bands FTMFW! some of the best money I ever spent on my exhaust, leak free and very easy to remove if needed

[93formulalt1]

As someone who spent two days fighting to install my hooker exhaust because of all the damn welds, I hope you never have to remove that exhaust. You won't be able to remove it without dropping your rear end or cutting the exhaust where it goes up and over the rear end. Welds sound good until you need to do adjustments or changes, then you're royally ****ed. I have no less than 8 clamps on my current exhaust

I had 6 clamps in my previous exhaust, and i was constantly battling leaks. If I have to make one cut with a sawzall to get this exhaust off, I'm fine with that. A long as I'm not under the car every two weeks trying to find out where the leaks are. Lol

[meissen]

RTV Sealant + lap clamps or butt clamps = titties. Hadn't heard of those V-clamps until Jeff posted - gonna have to check that out for sure.

[93formulalt1]

RTV Sealant + lap clamps or butt clamps = titties. Hadn't heard of those V-clamps until Jeff posted - gonna have to check that out for sure.

I'm going to use band clamps and RTV to re-seal the joint between the headers and ORY, I've had some minor leaking there. I'd rather keep it somewhat removeable, if I ever have to pull it apart, I'll just cut it behind the cutout and use a band clamp to put it back together. Not as difficult as people think, 2 minutes with a sawzall to take it off, 30 seconds with the RTV, and 2 minutes with a ratchet to put the band clamp in place. Easy as pie.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

They are truly the best option IMO for a well sealing but easily removabe exhaust. You do get what you pay for though as they aren't real cheap and they require welding so you will most likely have a shop install them as I did. All the turbo guys use them to properly seal their kits and make them easy to work on.

As for your theory of "easy" Nick I hope thats the case but I have often found exhaust to be a PITA to work on no matter what. The clamps leak or you overtighten and they crush the pipes some making them a ***** to remove, you have to use heat to get them off ect. not my favorite place to spend a bunch of time fiddeling with the car although the RTV does help quite a bit.

[TylerT/AZ28]

rtv like the blue sealer? whats that suppose to do?

[JoeliusZ28]

My suggestion would be to Not install the taylor otvc wires. Not necessary and my taylor wires conducted energy just about everywhere but the spark plug. Ive heard they are a hit or miss product, in my case they were absolutely terrible.

Heres my taylor wires in action

[meissen]

rtv like the blue sealer? whats that suppose to do?

High temp RTV to help seal the pipes together when you're using band clamps.

[TylerT/AZ28]

that wont burn off?

[93formulalt1]

My suggestion would be to Not install the taylor otvc wires. Not necessary and my taylor wires conducted energy just about everywhere but the spark plug. Ive heard they are a hit or miss product, in my case they were absolutely terrible.

Heres my taylor wires in action

I have three sets of aftermarket wires, all of the "performance" variety, I'll take a look at what I have. If the Taylor's are as bad as you say, I'll have to see what else I have.

[lf93formula]

If you are still interested in the mail order tune, I have the equipment to burn chips and would loan it to you. Mailing the Data log and receiving the tune via email worked OK. I used Soloman and the car runs well, but maybe a little rich.

[93formulalt1]

If you are still interested in the mail order tune, I have the equipment to burn chips and would loan it to you. Mailing the Data log and receiving the tune via email worked OK. I used Soloman and the car runs well, but maybe a little rich.

PCM4Less actually burns a chip and mails it out. Not sure who else can do a tune like that, but I may take you up on the offer if Im able to find someone better.