1996 Camaro Z28 LT1 Project

[birdie2000]

I have a WS6 32mm front bar I'd let go of cheap if you want one. Also have a 24mm rear bar I'm not doing anything with.

[JoeliusZ28]

Just as an FYI - i think aftermarket sway bars use different materials in addition to larger diameter. My spohn sway bar seemed like it was twice as heavy as my stock sway bar, even though it was only slightly larger. Lightweight race car fail = Me

[birdie2000]

IIRC the stock ones are hollow and a lot of the aftermarket ones are solid which might account for that.

[alone_and_insane]

IIRC the stock ones are hollow and a lot of the aftermarket ones are solid which might account for that.

^this. I suppose that's +1 to getting a SS/WS6 sway bar if I go 32 mm in the front. If I go 35 mm I'm going to have to pony up a little more cash.

[alone_and_insane]

So back to the swaybar thing, I've determined that I'm not going to do anything until I have some more seat time in the car and get a better feel for how it handles in its current state.

Unfortunately, this last week ended up being really busy and I didn't get around to doing the valve adjustment. I got the pigtail for the plug the other day and that's going in tomorrow, as well as the valve adjustment if I have time. Still kind of leery about that though, I don't want to do it wrong again...

[JoeliusZ28]

Valve adjustment isnt anything you want to rush. Take your time... i re-lashed mine 3 times before I was happy with it. Your car will run well when you find that sweet spot.

[alone_and_insane]

Yeah, just not really thrilled about the thought of doing it trial-and-error half a dozen times before I get it right

[JoeliusZ28]

it kind of requires some trial and error if you want the best adjustment. The car will tell you what it wants, you just have to figure out how to read it, and we just gave you the cliffs notes . Lifters have enough adjustability designed into them that if you shoot somewhere in the middle you shouldnt have to worry about bottoming or topping out.

[alone_and_insane]

I plan on referring to this writeup for my next attempt:

http://www.centuryperformance.com/va...procedure.html

I think I'm going to do it engine-running style. Sounds less pleasant, but more foolproof. What do you suggest I do to keep oil from making too much of a mess?

[alone_and_insane]

So I've hit a bit of a snag with the oil pressure sending unit. Turns out that the pigtail I got is for 1 wire/1 prong, but I need 1 wire/3 prongs. Seems rather strange to me that the sending unit would have 3 prongs, but only take a reading from one of them.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Just drill small little holes in the end of the connector and seal the back of the plug? Just a thought if you don't feel like returning it.

The oil pressure sensor with three pins acts as a switch as well. Once oil psi hits ~5 or higher the switch (two outside pins) become closed.

[alone_and_insane]

After fiddling for 20 minutes, I managed to get the pins out of the connectors and make one useful pigtail out of the two. Now the frustrating part is trying to splice it back into the harness. There is literally less than two inches of wire coming out of the harness that I can work with, and it's all the way to the firewall. I fought with that for almost 45 minutes tonight, without success. I'm using this kind of splice:



Getting that onto the tiny wire sticking out has been next to impossible. The couple of times I had it on there and tried pinching it down with the needlenose pliers, the wire immediately just slipped right back out. With where the wire is located, it's next to impossible for me to get both hands, a needlenose pliers, and light into that small area, while still being able to actually see what I'm doing.

[meissen]

Honestly I'd try to figure out some way to solder it instead of splicing... just my opinion but those splice joints suck and the wire will eventually slip out.

[alone_and_insane]

Yeah I agree soldering would probably be better, but I don't have a soldering iron, or a source of electricity to plug in said soldering iron, or enough hands to hold the solder, the iron, and pull the harness far enough for me to reach the wire, or enough room to get all that stuff in where it needs to be. As it is now, I have to wedge one arm between the header and the traction control unit to hold the harness close enough for me to wedge my other hand between the TC unit, the cowl, and the brake booster so I can do something with the wire.

[JoeliusZ28]

Dang man that sounds like a mess...