I bought my old 93 Z28 back, now it needs some TLC

[mcalus]

Another update...

Went to my buddies machine shop. He said his rule of thumb is if the cylinders catch your fingernail (from piston wear) then it needs to be bored .xx over. Once i get the crank, pistons, connecting rods and cam out he said to bring the block in and he can mic the cylinders.

As for price, he didn't give me one on boring it out. But putting new cam bearings in will be around 50 bucks with the bearings! He said he can set the cam in for free. Also he said he might have a set of pistons laying around that are .030 over.

I will be taking the rest of the internals out tomorrow night.

[Gottork]

sweet, coming right along, congratz

[mcalus]

Engine is finally down the the bare block!!! WOOT!









One of the many messed up bearings






Trans lines and oil passage line, cleaned them up and sprayed them quickly with some Dupicolor charcoal spray paint. Looks much better than before, had tons of oil and dirt on them.


Timing cover, luckily my buddy has a parts washer, and he owes me many favors



Timing chain had about an 1" worth of play!


Probably take the engine over to my buddies machine shop Tuesday evening. My buddy doesn't think the cylinders will need to be bored out. I can only hope. Other thing is I have been looking at a lot of vids of people with cc503 and having issues spinning bearings after the install even if they put new ones in. I'm a bit worried about that. Like I have said this whole cam thing is new news to me. What am I looking at price wise for-

Lifters-
Pushrods-
Cam-
Bearings (connecting rods, crank)-
Rockers-
Springs/retainers-


Couple of questions-
I shouldn't NEED bigger injectors should I?
Fuel pump?
Will I need new valves?
Will I need to port the intake and heads (i plan on doing at least the heads)
What am I looking at HP wise after all said and done?

I'm sure I have more, I can't wait!

Thanks for everyones help!!!

[98blackbeauty]

I would change the timing chain, shouldn't have that much slop. they are only 15-20 bucks. AC delco LS7 lifters are very good can get them over counter a Oreillys 125-130 bucks. Don't know if I mentioned this before, you can buy gaskets cheaper separete than a kit. Kits are like 220-250 and separete will cost you 150. I don't know why but that is what I did when i rebuilt my bird. and their felpro gaskets. I also would figure on new bolts for head and rods and mains. Old bolts tend to have been streached and break easy and some times they bottom out on the head bolts, so when you torque them down they are not even pressure on head. I believe they started to use torque to yield bolts on heads in 1996, 97. NO NOT BUY TORQUE TO YIELD BOLTS. You can only use or torque them once!
You asked about fuel pump in your post. thats in the gas tank should be ok, did you mean oil pump? Even if you did not mean oil pump I would change it while engine is apart looked like a lot of sludge in that engine which causes wear. Don't forget to also have pickup tube on pump welded.
You wondered about hp when done. stock you were 260-275 at the flywheel. So rear wheel would be about 220 on a dyno. With cam, and headers and tune you will probably end up 270-280 at rear wheels. 1:6 roller rockers and bee hive springs will give you 5-6% more. and it depends on if you need to be bored out that will increase disp and = more hp. The injectors increased to 30-35 lbs will also give you big return in hp. Stock intake will more than handle what your doing so leave it alone.
I was looking back at pics and realized that one of the pics was a bearing cap. looks as the bearing was turning, you caught his just before major disaster cycle. You will need an aleinment bore with fitted bearings. I hope you are taking this to an engine builder not just a machine shop. An engine builder will do necessary machine work and testing, a machine shop will do what you say you want done.

[Gottork]

This is getting better by the day..

[mcalus]

I would change the timing chain, shouldn't have that much slop. they are only 15-20 bucks. AC delco LS7 lifters are very good can get them over counter a Oreillys 125-130 bucks. Don't know if I mentioned this before, you can buy gaskets cheaper separete than a kit. Kits are like 220-250 and separete will cost you 150. I don't know why but that is what I did when i rebuilt my bird. and their felpro gaskets. I also would figure on new bolts for head and rods and mains. Old bolts tend to have been streached and break easy and some times they bottom out on the head bolts, so when you torque them down they are not even pressure on head. I believe they started to use torque to yield bolts on heads in 1996, 97. NO NOT BUY TORQUE TO YIELD BOLTS. You can only use or torque them once!
You asked about fuel pump in your post. thats in the gas tank should be ok, did you mean oil pump? Even if you did not mean oil pump I would change it while engine is apart looked like a lot of sludge in that engine which causes wear. Don't forget to also have pickup tube on pump welded.
You wondered about hp when done. stock you were 260-275 at the flywheel. So rear wheel would be about 220 on a dyno. With cam, and headers and tune you will probably end up 270-280 at rear wheels. 1:6 roller rockers and bee hive springs will give you 5-6% more. and it depends on if you need to be bored out that will increase disp and = more hp. The injectors increased to 30-35 lbs will also give you big return in hp. Stock intake will more than handle what your doing so leave it alone.
I was looking back at pics and realized that one of the pics was a bearing cap. looks as the bearing was turning, you caught his just before major disaster cycle. You will need an aleinment bore with fitted bearings. I hope you are taking this to an engine builder not just a machine shop. An engine builder will do necessary machine work and testing, a machine shop will do what you say you want done.

Thank you Larry for the loads of info! Yes I was referring to the fuel pump as in if I should upgrade it. Oil pump I had planed on getting a new stock one, will that be sufficient? As for the machine shop, yes its also a engine building place, the do quite the work, its just a small town but I know the guy personally and his dad and my dad go way back. He has been around engines his entire life as for his dad. Ill mention everything to him.

So will I need to do anything with the heads? I understand they will give me more hp etc, but will I hurt anything running stock until I have the money to upgrade? As for pushrods? Yes a couple of you guys suggest to get the gaskets separate. Any pros vs cons of going used parts? other than they are used? ie: lifters, pushrods, springs, rockers, etc? Also, I have always heard when replacing a chain do the sprockets is this correct? Should I do the sprockets too? Thanks again Larry!

This is getting better by the day..

Thanks! Stay tuned because I will be taking the block to the shop Tuesday!!!

[Fbomb]

I've always heard to replace the timing chain and gears as a set. And I wouldn't buy used lifters or springs.

[98blackbeauty]

when we rebuilt brians car we did just the chain. no gears. His was not real sloppy, engine had 65,000 miles as we were told. Mine had 126,000 and was sloppy like yours did just the chain, and it took up 3/4 of the slop so didn't bother with gears. Only used parts I would consider would be roller rockers, push rods, and only if I new the person and miles and use or abuse of car. 30-40 bucks used verses 100-120 new not worth the gamble. But thats my opinion.

[mcalus]

Dropped off the block and a 12 pack

[my1994z28]

I have a brand new set of ARP main studs if you decide to go that route..box is unopened..50.00 cash and they are yours..summit sells for 64.99 i believe.This is good insurnace to have.

[mcalus]

I have a brand new set of ARP main studs if you decide to go that route..box is unopened..50.00 cash and they are yours..summit sells for 64.99 i believe.This is good insurnace to have.

ok thanks mike! right now im just trying to start from the bottom up. next thing i need to buy is the cam and then get the crank checked out. then rings and bearings, pending on if i need to bore the block.

[ITSSLOW]

Looks to be coming alone nicely. You've got your fuel rails marked wrong cylinder wise. You have it marked like some of the Ford engines.

[mcalus]

Looks to be coming alone nicely. You've got your fuel rails marked wrong cylinder wise. You have it marked like some of the Ford engines.

yeah I didnt know what cylinder was what at the time of taking the injectors off and i needed to number the fuel rails and injectors so i just went in order.

[mcalus]

So, something I was thinking of today. I know of all the threads on ls1tech about how shitty ebay headers are. But yet some have had good luck.

Do you think I would have better luck since my motor is already out? Any suggestions on that? I have to cut corners and save money somewhere lol.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I wouldn't personally, but its your dime. You get what you pay for.