I bought my old 93 Z28 back, now it needs some TLC

[hoogiesngrinderz]

wow, that 93 looks like shit!

My Tokico rear lowering springs sit a little higher than I'd like on my car, but I think that was because the spring wasn't seated correctly. Plus the front sat lower because of the Spohn A-arms. If you were closer I'd let you mount them and check the stance...I think the rear springs are the same up to '02. I'd say go with a progressive spring if you want to really throw it into the turns, but you will probably sacrifice ride quality on the bigger bumps with the shorter suspension travel.

I like my car to feel like a go cart though

[mcalus]

It looks like the vogtland springs are also a 1.2x drop according to ws6store

Thanks for the pics Fred!

[mcalus]

Got some arp header bolts from summit today. Ordered at 430pm yesterday night and they were waiting for me at home when I got out of work.





Pulling off the old springs and shocks on Sunday, going to clean up the upper a arms and hopefully I'll have the springs and shocks ordered and shipped by next Monday (12th).

[nascarnate326]

If I had to do it over I would do Stagg shocks from eBay.

Paint everything you can. Rust=devil.

[mcalus]

If I had to do it over I would do Stagg shocks from eBay.

Paint everything you can. Rust=devil.

What shocks are you running now Nate?
Everything but the k member it's self will be painted, I'll be getting new lower a arms this summer. When I do brakes I'll take care of the spindles.

[Fox Slaughter]

There is a company that makes chromoly spindles. I guess they are like 30lbs lighter then stock spindles or something. They also sell a kit with Aerospace front brakes that can drop like 130lbs off the front end with tubular front end.

EDIT:

Forgot I book marked the site.

http://burkhartchassis.com/id83.html

1075 with Aerospace front end brake setup. Can do anything from stock to 2" drop spindles.

[mcalus]

So I'm doing research that I should of done before...these arp header bolts are 3/4" long, the recommended length is 1". Fml, that's the 3rd set of bolts that arp has f$&ked me. first it was the arp main bolts not having the windage tray ones included, then the hb washer being too big now these.

[98blackbeauty]

Before you get different exhaust manifold bolts check your old ones. 3/8 will thread in for metric but thread slightly off and will come loose or could strip in aluminum heads. LT 1's are such a pain because 1/2 is metric and 1/2 is SAE. A 3/8 bolt is the only SAE thats close but still off from metric.

[bri2203]

In all honesty steins aren't that much more if you are replacing all 4 dampeners. I LOVE mine.

When I replaced the dampers(in 2006) on my 2001 Camaro there was a huge difference. Bilsteins were $350 for a set and aftermarket stock replacements were 150. (fronts were 55 and rears were 20). I replaced the OEM decarbons at 80,000 and it was a big improvement.

Would I have prefered Bilsteins? Yes
If I could go back in time, would I do it differently? No. It was a daily driver V6, and I couldn't justify the extra cost for my intended use when I could buy all four dampers twice with money left over.

ANY new damper will be an improvment over a wore out damper.
I hate it when people compare 30 year old rubber bushing to new urethane bushings. For an accurate comparison you need to compare old rubber bushings vs new rubber bushings vs urethane vs solid etc.

If you are asking for opnions about tires... I am one of the few who think 315s look bad all of the 4th gen camaros I have seen. The tire hangs too far out compared to the shape of the body .

The engine is looking good!
You should br proud of yourself. I remember thinking a few year back when the thread was started "I wonder if this project will get done" I know the project has had its highs and lows but it will be worth it soon.

[mcalus]

Thanks for the kind words and advice Brian. There is much more I would like to do to it while the motor is out but I'd really like to drive it this summer. I just had a buddy over and he hasn't seen it in quite some time and he didn't think I'd be as far as I am and it's a good feeling to hear that. ------------I took out the 2 nuts and bolts holding the shock to the k member and I pulled out the codder pin and castle nut from the upper ball joint but I can't get the upper ball joint loose from the spindle. Should take the tire off and hit the bolt of the ball joint?

[birdie2000]

Puller if you plan to reuse the ball joint, pickle fork if you don't.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Take two hammers and 'clap' the spindle on each side of the ball joint. If that doesn't pop it, pull the tire off so you can smack it with a heavy hammer. I keep old castle nuts handy for this reason. Thread them on upside down (flat side down) so that it is almost flush. You want to protect the threads!

[98blackbeauty]

If your just removing the shock/spring assembly you don't need the take ball joint loose. Flip the upper control arm plate off the shock mount and you have the whole assembly apart. Not a bad ideal to replace ball joints while its apart though.

[Boost Addict]

Hit the spindle on the flat spot, it can be seen in that picture on the right hand side.

[mcalus]

Thanks everyone. I'll give it another shotI plan on replacing the ball joints for sure, it would be dumb not to.I'm thinking of getting this. Reason of getting it now vs later is because it will be much easier to fab it for the 3 1/2" collectors now.http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=11369045704I still haven't decided on which springs to get.