Meissen's LT1 Rebuild Thread

[meissen]

brian you could just get a different cam, the rest of your valve train would be just fine.

yeah but $250 for a 100 mile cam... just can't bear to gulp that cost down if I don't have to. I like the CC503 cam, and like Jeff said that crank is expensive once I started looking at prices. It looks like if I went with Jon's place I can get it done for under $1000..

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I would fill the converter back up with fluid and put it back on the trans that way its all ready to go when you guy bolt it back in.

[98blackbeauty]

The cc503 is fine, no sign of wear, we only ran maybe 75 to 80 miles on car. The goal wasn't to build something to race, but to be a powerful cruiser. So to spend 1500 to 2000 more to go to 383 strocker would be a total waste. A lot will be decided when we get machine work done, will they have to bore or can it only be honed. The crank and bearing definately have to be done.

[9T8W66]

The real issue with the cam is how do the bearing journals look ?
The lobes were only minutely discolored but if the cam bearings were contaminated then you may have to replace the cam anyway.

And I don't see a reason to swap cams even if you were going to a 383.

[WMCCjames]

I would caution you on re-using that cam. If it were me, I'd throw it in the scap bin or make a mailbox post out of it. You had a slurry of metal filled oil run through out that engine. If you are dead set on re-using it, have it checked out by someone who knows what they are looking for.

[TSTONE]

B - i am so so sorry to be seeing and reading all of this

[Phantom409]

You can run that 503 it just won't make power like a 383 should but a 355 is a good choise because you can use your stock crank and rods.

Make sure you get it balanced or you will have vibration problems.

Also when you have the block bored make sure they do it with a torque plate.
You will spend the majority of your money doing block work but it will pay off in the end.
Get new lifters!!!!!
You will have blow out #2 if you don't replace them.

They might have been new when you started but with all that junk that was getting pumped through the motor, now is not the time to gamble.

[meissen]

A lot will be decided when we get machine work done, will they have to bore or can it only be honed. The crank and bearing definately have to be done.

For the $100-200 it'll cost to have it bored, might as well...

The real issue with the cam is how do the bearing journals look ?
The lobes were only minutely discolored but if the cam bearings were contaminated then you may have to replace the cam anyway.

And I don't see a reason to swap cams even if you were going to a 383.

The threads I was reading said that the 383 would want a higher duration than the cc503. Regardless, I'm not spending the money on that crank, I'd rather just machine the stock one that I have than buy a whole new one.

I would caution you on re-using that cam. If it were me, I'd throw it in the scap bin or make a mailbox post out of it. You had a slurry of metal filled oil run through out that engine. If you are dead set on re-using it, have it checked out by someone who knows what they are looking for.

I guess that's where my confusion comes in. I'll definitely take it to someone to have them check it out but it's just so confusing reading all the completely polar opposite opinions on this.

[meissen]

You can run that 503 it just won't make power like a 383 should but a 355 is a good choise because you can use your stock crank and rods.

Make sure you get it balanced or you will have vibration problems.

Also when you have the block bored make sure they do it with a torque plate.
You will spend the majority of your money doing block work but it will pay off in the end.
Get new lifters!!!!!
You will have blow out #2 if you don't replace them.

They might have been new when you started but with all that junk that was getting pumped through the motor, now is not the time to gamble.

Yeah definitely will be getting a set of new lifters. I was using the stockers, not new ones, so we'll go with new lifters.

[Phantom409]

I'm with James on that too.
Pull it and check it out, better yet have the engine shop look at it and asses it for you.

When you have the block work done, have them put the cam bearings in before it's cleaned to make sure ALL the shavings come out.

[meissen]

Would a kit like this work? Obviously I need to find out what machine work needs to be done to the crank, but I mean is this what I should expect for just the parts price wise? Not including the machine work and labor for the machine shop.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Also, to be fully "balanced" - they balance the crank once they receive the rest of parts?

[Transamsfast]

if you plan to do nothing but cam those will work... i guess. i paid more for my pistons alone than that kit..

[Phantom409]

That kit would work.
You would have to see if the engine shop would swap bearings for ya from the standard ones that come with the kit to an under sized bearing.

[Phantom409]

An Yes, the balancing would include the crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, hub, balancer and I think your torque converter.

That way the is no issue with any of the parts in the rotating assembly.

[meissen]

if you plan to do nothing but cam those will work... i guess. i paid more for my pistons alone than that kit..

Yeah but you plan to use some of the giggle juice, don't ya? I won't be using nitrous or forced induction with this build.

That kit would work.
You would have to see if the engine shop would swap bearings for ya from the standard ones that come with the kit to an under sized bearing.

Yeah, that's just the one I selected to link to. They have an assortment of different combinations on Summit that would allow you to pick for the right over/under bearing sizes.