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<Project> 1998 Trans Am Upgrades

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  • &lt;Project&gt; 1998 Trans Am Upgrades

    oh yeah! Looking good Brett!


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    1992 Chevy Camaro 25th Anniversary-SOLD
    1992 Chevy Camaro 25th Anniversary
    1997 Chevrolet Corvette

    The Original
    Originally posted by meissen
    I actually agree with Darren on everything he said...
    Originally posted by 81DaytonaPaceCar
    Yep, pretty much...not too often I agree 100% with Darren, but there it is...


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    • Real nice, Brett!
      Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

      "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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      • &lt;Project&gt; 1998 Trans Am Upgrades

        Thanks guys. They look the same as last season but they will hold up much better.

        Got my new plate today.
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        • That's hilarious.
          - Brian Meissen
          Owner, MiFBody.com
          Administrator, LTxTech.com


          1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
          2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
          Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
          June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
          The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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          • Since I had the day off today I picked up my projector adapter brackets from [MENTION=1993]Darren[/MENTION] and [MENTION=2135]bigjon88[/MENTION]. They did a great job as usual! It took about 4 hours to do the retrofit and wire up a relay harness. I'm really happy with how this turned out.







            Last edited by Schuby87; March 30th, 2013, 09:13 AM.
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            • Re: &lt;Project&gt; 1998 Trans Am Upgrades

              Those are cool

              Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2 because Apple sucks

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              • All trans ams should have these! I wish there was something like that for mine that didnt look funky
                -Joel
                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                • I picked these up today from [MENTION=2051]matlt1[/MENTION]. Thanks again, Matt. [MENTION=256]DETROITMUSCLE[/MENTION] - Look familiar?

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                  • Today was a productive day - I got the old rear end out even though it wasn't as graceful as I had planned. The sway bar end links were completely rusted so I had to break those bolts. I have Moog end links and sway bar bushings coming in tomorrow.



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                    • Thats pretty common, I had to breaker-bar snap my stock endlinks too, and my car has been stored.
                      -Joel
                      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                      • &lt;Project&gt; 1998 Trans Am Upgrades

                        I got the rear end from my car all torn apart. I'm having an issue with the replacement rear end though - I'm in danger of rounding off the cross pin bolt. The one in the other rear end came out easily with a 8mm box wrench but not even a 3/8 socket wrench with a small breaker bar wont get it loose. Does anyone have tips or tricks when dealing with this besides the typical PB Blaster/heat solution? I read about just pounding the cross pin out with a 12mm socket but I don't know if I'm that desperate yet.
                        Last edited by Schuby87; May 16th, 2013, 08:30 AM.
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                        • I don't know the answer, but here's a bump for ya.
                          - Brian Meissen
                          Owner, MiFBody.com
                          Administrator, LTxTech.com


                          1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                          2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                          Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                          June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                          The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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                          • just the usual tips, heat is prob your best bet as I'm sure thats why its so tight to begin with. Also if you start pounding it out, essentially breaking the crosspin bolt, how will you get it out? there isn't enough room for the pin to be pushed through I don't think usually they have to be pulled out with a magnet.
                            Doing less with more


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                            • Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Post
                              just the usual tips, heat is prob your best bet as I'm sure thats why its so tight to begin with. Also if you start pounding it out, essentially breaking the crosspin bolt, how will you get it out? there isn't enough room for the pin to be pushed through I don't think usually they have to be pulled out with a magnet.
                              I had to tap the cross pin out with a hammer and socket extension on the other rear end then grabbed it with some rubber coated vice grips to pull it out all the way.
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                              • I put some heat on that bolt and the damn thing practically fell out. So I got the rest of the new rear end torn down and half put together.
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