Meissen's LT1 Build-up Thread

[Virtue]

i talked to kyle when u were still working on the lca lol

i had to cut one off that roller i bought and cut the panhard bar what a pita!!!


brian it had both lca brackets on there right? lol cause it did when i dropped it off at kyles, your post sounded like it only had one

notin like some ls1 rear brakes, nice upgrade. just a little fyi the rotors were i believe 59 a piece when i got them 8-O but prices on stuff has gone down alot recently

[MP81]

Did it just have a bracket on one side or both? And I'm guessing that they are bolt on ones that you want to sell?

The new rear end has weld-ons on both sides... why would it have just one? Or are you talking about something else?

They're bolt ons he's selling. UMI.

[my95z28]

Idk, the post he made didn't sound like both of them were on there.

[meissen]

That wet sanding will take some time!
Will look good though when you get it done

Yeah it will - but I can't wait to see the engine bay all nice and cleanly painted again. REALLY hope we don't run into any issues when we do the engine install that would mess up the fresh paint.

Did it just have a bracket on one side or both? And I'm guessing that they are bolt on ones that you want to sell?

On both, definitely misleading saying "a bracket" and not "brackets" - was watching TV and typing.

good god that is a rusty rear end

YES... YES IT IS!

I'm not looking forward to spending all day cutting the lower control arm bolts off my car this month. I hate dealing with something, that should be so simple. Any pointers?

A sawzall. Lots of blades. Get a blade that's rated at a really thick metal - we noticed the long blades were for 3/16ths whereas the short blades were only for 1/8th. The long blades actually seemed to do a lot more than the short ones did. We went through about 10 blades I think. Really, if you can get diamond tipped or carbide tipped blades that'd probably cut a hell of a lot better. Oh, and cut the head of the bolt and the nut of the bolt off. Then pry the body brackets away from the LCA so it will fall out. We cut through the bushing and that made it 100% worse.

i talked to kyle when u were still working on the lca lol

i had to cut one off that roller i bought and cut the panhard bar what a pita!!!


brian it had both lca brackets on there right? lol cause it did when i dropped it off at kyles, your post sounded like it only had one

notin like some ls1 rear brakes, nice upgrade. just a little fyi the rotors were i believe 59 a piece when i got them 8-O but prices on stuff has gone down alot recently

Yeah both are there. Definitely happy to hear about the LS1 rear brakes - although I hope I won't have any issues fitting the rear tires back on. I think the rims were for 93-02 so it should be fine. Nothing that a little grinding won't fix.

[MP81]

Yeah, your rear brakes look bigger than your fronts.

[sman]

Hey B, Ive been using PB blaster for a while but switched to kroil in an orange arosol can, seems to work MUCH better! You do have a set of torches right, or some form of heat right.

Also dont think you should have an issue with the brakes.

[meissen]

We have propane blowtorches but that's about it - nothing that will cut right through the metal. Thanks for the tip on the Kroil - I've about used up the PB Blaster so I'll get that one once I'm out.

[c0ncEpT]

I don't think it helped that me and Moner came over and shot the shit with you and your dad for an hour.

[meissen]

s'all good - by that point we were both too tired to accomplish much of anything.

And HOLY CRAP am I sore today. Chest hurts, shoulders kill, neck's cramped, legs bruised. Just means I did a good job working this weekend.

[98blackbeauty]

I'm not looking forward to spending all day cutting the lower control arm bolts off my car this month. I hate dealing with something, that should be so simple. Any pointers?

Spray PB every day for a week. Go to church on Sunday and pray.
The problem is not so much the bolt and nut being rusty the problem is the inside bushing rusted to the bolt. and there is no good way to free it up as there is hardly no room to get a good hammer swing. the body pan has to many parts in the way. you'll see when under there. If your lucky it will come out with a little bit of work. the drivers side did.

[SLPSS]

thanks

thanks for the sliders haven't had them in years back in the beer drinking days, got our camaro un boxed from the garage yesterday snowmobile trailer of to one side now to put the ins. back on usualy April 1st

[DETROITMUSCLE]

Did you guys try heating up the bushing and then putting a ratchet on the bolt and turning it without the nut on? We did this on one of my k-member bolts and it broke up the rust pretty good and then the bolt came out. It may be worth a try.

[meissen]

Good idea, Jeff. For some reason we never pulled the torch out at all to heat them up. Once we made the two cuts through the bolt we were able to pry the LCA down with the bolt still stuck in the LCA and going through the bushings.

Ordered more goodies today.. now it's down to the nickel and dime stuff. LT4 knock module, FRAM fuel filter, ARP head bolts, Stage 8 locking header bolts, and hopefully this guy from LS1Tech replies soon so I can order the spark plugs and wires.

I just want to make sure that if he makes the wires ~ 4" longer to accommodate the taller Canton valve covers that if I decide after all not to go OTVC and run them normally that I'll have enough length. I really haven't made up my mind for sure which way I want to go with the spark wires.

[JoeliusZ28]

Brian i cant believe how much progress you are making. I'd be lucky to do a quarter of that much work to mine over the entire summer....

Spray PB every day for a week. Go to church on Sunday and pray.
The problem is not so much the bolt and nut being rusty the problem is the inside bushing rusted to the bolt. and there is no good way to free it up as there is hardly no room to get a good hammer swing. the body pan has to many parts in the way. you'll see when under there. If your lucky it will come out with a little bit of work. the drivers side did.

Yea thats really all you can do since there is nothing you can to do stop the inner bushing from spinning. There is no place to get a hammer in at the front mount so the only thing you can use is pure lateral force. on the axle side i remember breaking a C-clamp!!! I hit my rear bolts so hard with a hammer that the LCA mounts on my axle were bending instead of the bolt coming out.

I soaked the hell out of mine and they were still a *****. Anyone that does the job i just recommend to be properly prepared. Get your 4 new hardened LCA bolts in advance, and a good sawzall with the proper blades ready. I think i only used 2-3 blades getting mine out, but I was able to remove the driver side without any cutting... it took me all day though and if i did it again i would just start with the sawzall.

[meissen]

100% agree with everything Joel states - sawzall the passenger side immediately if it's rusted. I don't know if they have them but a diamond tipped blade, carbide blade, or a blade rated for thicker metal would work great. We used Milwaukee blades rated for 3/16 to 1/8 and it was adequate but cutting through the bushings were pretty rough because the rubber just dulled and wore the blades out real fast.

Can't wait! I definitely feel like I'm in the final stretch!